Mk 1 Golf Clipper Running Problems

Starting the golf is not a problem and she idles very well.  Once you are out driving, after about 10 minutes the car begins to act as though it?s coughing and then stalls.  If you try to continue to drive the car it eventually stalls totally and cannot even be jumped while moving.  

If you pull over, turn off the engine wait for a couple of minutes the car starts fine again and will drive for another period of 10 minutes and then the fault re-appears?

When I got the car I changed the fuel filler neck, had the tank cleaned out and the sender was replaced.  The car was tuned, serviced etc and ran very well until Oct when it was SORN (garaged) for the winter. The car was MOT'd the other day and ran well until yesterday when I had to call out the AA.  The AA cleaned the distributer cap and also the ignition module with duck oil.  The car ran well for about an hour until the same fault re-appeared.  Today I have changed the ignition module however the fault remains.

Both fuel pump etc seem fine however I would not know how to check this?

Any ideas please on what the fault could be and how to fix??

Depending on what carb you have take a look here and read all, i am saying carb flange may have splits and leaking air, also how is the vac pipe setup on this, also have you checked timing is correct?
Anyway read and cover everything here in these links to get you running smooth again
Pete :wink:
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=57627

http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=58393

The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Thanks for the advice.

The carb is a weber.

The flange was replaced at the same time carb was cleaned and tuned or not as the case may be.

Any experts that could take a look at it in the Bristol area??

I have had some advice to fill the car up with petrol and also change the fuel filter (top gold looking thing on front of the engine above the fuel pump), would the filter be the problem after about 10 minutes driving?

If yes, how?

The tank was cleaned recently and a new sender fitted however the fuel filter was not changed.  I also have a clear filter to the left of the engine, I take it this is an aftermarket separate filter?

The final thing that was recommended was to change the coil.

I am after advice in which order I should replace, carry out these changes? And also would the coil being faulty result in the car stalling, having to rest the car for a couple of minutes and then starting and driving fine again for another short period of time?

Help please!

This called the fuel / vapour separator

yes it is good to replace it if original and you have had issues with rust.
Also teh filter which you mentioned being an aftermarket filter, it is the in-line fuel filter, this stops any crap rust etc getting to the separator and to the carb.
If you can see tiny little fragments of dirt or even if the paper filter inside is a browny colour and not a yellowy colour, replace also.
Very easy to replace both, simply undo the jubilee clips from both parts being replaced, fit new jubilee clips and job done.
Replace all parts as in tut's in links inc anything to do with fuel and vacuum, leave coil to last, as me personally i don't think it is that
Pete  :wink:

Cheers for the info.

What do you mean tut's in links etc?

My first post, there are 3 links, cover all those areas

Got you now cheers. Will update tomorrow once i have changed the fuel / vapour separator.

Had the same probs with mine and changed everything fuel related! :dontknow:

Then everything electrial also :roll:

Got sorted in the end ???s less but worth it now,

Cabrio runs well and all new OEM parts,
Good advice and help on this site :wink:
Read over past threads,

That little sock/sender thingy was theprob in end,
Simple to fix! and was cut to allow fuel to flow  8O

Does anyone have any pictures of how to remove and clean/replace the sock?

Replaced the coil, however still no joy.

Could it really be the fuel filter?

If this does not work then how do you remove and clean/replace the sock or clean the tank with a magnet cos the tank has only recently been taken off and cleaned.

I did say leave coil to last i me personally it is not that from experience and symptoms your mentioning.
SOCK? :dontknow: are you talking about the fuel sender in the tank, if so i gave you links to go through 1st and cover them, it is teh 3rd link down in my post you earlier.
Have you replaced fuel vapour separator as menitoned previously as if you are cutting corners and not covering the basics we will not get any where.
SO what excactly as been replaced, you have a  weber carb, are your vacuum pips fitted correctly, again look in my links to correct this, have you replaced the carb flange which the carb sits on, have you replaced the filler neck if not have you checked it for rust which if original their will be for sure, have you cleaned the fuel sender? please follow through what i am saying and we will get it sorted bud.
So any questions, don't hesitate to ask
Pete :wink:

Hi

Thanks for the reply again.

The following parts were replaced:

Filler neck replaced initially
Carb Flange replaced
Carb cleaned and tuned
Tank cleaned after filler neck replaced
Sender replaced following tank clean
Module replaced
Coil replaced

When the AA were called they only oiled the distributor cap and the module?

Could an incorrect petrol tank cap (ie too tight not letting the tank breathe) be the problem thus causing a vacuum in the tank therefore not allowing the pump to draw petrol after a period of time?

Have not checked the vac pipes as yet. But at first glance they are all connected. Will check there state tomorrow.

I took off the fuel filter (clear in line today and looks like rust was in that) and plan to fit a new filter (in the clear tube to left of engine) on Tue.   

Will check the fuel sender again. Confirm this is inside the petrol tank and removed as per your tut placed on the answer earlier?

Not changed the vapor separator (confirm this is the gold part on top which sits above the pump on the engine?) as cannot find the part number to get from GSF.  Is there anywhere else I can get this part?

Thanks again Pete,

Jules

Separator is gold colour as in my pic, sits on the front of the block and connected to rocker via the 2 centre rocker cover bolts and nuts, you can get here bud as gsf have stop making them
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-2-JETTA-SCIROCCO-FUEL-VAPOUR-SEPARATOR_W0QQitemZ300268310157QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item300268310157&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

but i do believe even thou he has none shown on his site that Rich aka forum parts seller CrazyQuiff has them also, so give him a bell also.
Fuel sender is removed via lifting rear bench, using a wrachet has in tut to undo it.

What makes you believe the cap is of the incorrect part bud?

Also any pics you can take of engine bay wil help, some of carb area and servo pipe area

Pete  :wink:

OK I will be in touch if need to go down the separator route.  I will try the filter in the tank first.

It was an idea another mechanic had re the cap. Its an easy test though as will just take off the cap and drive.

I am currently replacing the filter in the clear cover that sits above the belt area inside the engine bay.  That had rust in it and was not replaced when tank etc cleaned nor was the separator.

If the separator is original, change it also, no point of cleaning everything else as the separator will have crap inside, eliminate this and like you mention your replacing the in-line fuel filter.
You've cleaned tank, lines etc as to stop any crap getting to the carb or blocking any part of the fuel route, the separator is part of this route, well the last really so if blockages inside will prevent 100% fuel passage to the carb  :wink:

The only thing that confuses me is why the engine will run for a short period of time and then cut out if a filter is the problem?

checking the sock in the tank is 10 minutes of a job, so definatly worth taking a look, not difficult to do. Will also help you tell if there is sediment inside the tank as well. If they are both sparking clean at least youve ruled that out.

Id check it given the problems you have mentioned.

im having trouble removing the lid off the tank…any ideas?

i have removed the back seats and disconnected the pipes but im having trouble removing the lid.is it a case of just using force to twist it round??