KANGAROO/CUTTING OUT PROB....NOW SORTED!!!

The red wire is disconnected and left redundant when changing the carb from pierburg to weber.
If your worried about the earth straps being dirty undo them and clean them with emery cloth.
Fuel pumps are only ?17 from gsf so replace if possible, easy to do only held on by two bolts and the fuel pipes (careful with the rubber sealing ring though as they dont seat as well as geniun ones).
Get a new earth strap for the carb, it'll cost peanuts and it'll rule that out just to be sure. Mount it from a screw 3/4 the way up the front of the carb and onto the furthest left hand rear rocker cover bolt.

rowdy.

Things to do this weekend…

Fit
….new Fuel Pump
….new HT Leads
….new Plugs
….new Fuel Filter
….new Dizzy Cap
….new Rotor Arm
….Earth strap to carb

Hopefully things will run smoother!!!

I know you have been told that these haven't got hall effect sensors but I have just managed to order one for my car (EX engine code) and will be collecting it tomorrow and hopefully have this on by the weekend.

I will let you if this cures the fault on my car.

rowdy.
I have fitted the new hall sender unit today (from gsf, oh the fun and games I had getting the mounting holes aligned on the pattern part).

The car is still playing around, although it isn't just cutting out like it did it seems more like its running out of fuel.
It actually only cut out once whilst being driven and behaved itself when my wife took it up the road, although when she pulled up on the drive and left it ticking over it stalled, which is something that it hadn't been doing.
When it did stall it didn't want to start again for a couple of minutes.
Seems as though its ok on a moderate throttle but kangaroos a bit now when full or near throttle.

Maybe timing or mixture problem?

rowdy

clean the carb out.

then check timing.

Today…..

Changed the plugs (very sooty) HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor….still jumped coughed and splutterred!!! Now about to change Dizzy! Bought new one today…hall effect sensor really loose! Hopefully this is the problem?? Last thing to renew…..is the car!!!

novocaine said

rowdy

clean the carb out.

then check timing.

Brand spanking new Weber dmtl fitted so shouldn't need cleaning out and can't be that as the pierburg was cleaned out twice before it was replaced and problems still persisted.

Timing next on the agenda.

Haven't replaced coil yet and have read that the ignition amplifier (is this aka the tci unit?) can cause problems, are either of these likely suspects also?

rowdy

Ok I've just come back from a local garage that I phoned asking about the timing, a really nice bloke that seems to know his onions when it comes to these cars.

He told me to bring the car up and he'd have a look, but said it doesn't sound like the timing. After checking the timing he told me it was spot on.
He also said that he prefers the pierburg to the weber but mine is set up correctly and running sweetly.
The vacuum pipe running from back of carb to the front of airbox was as such and not routed through the air filter housing so this was corrected.
On my car there is a piece of the warm air hose missing, so he suggested that this be put in place to prevent carb icing.
His other suggestion was to cut the filter on the end of the sender unit to free the flow of fuel.

Just to add the car ran fine on the way to and from the garage so I am wondering whether my efforts to clean the tank and change the relevant parts as regards to the fuel system have been sucsessful, now that the car has had a good run. fingers crossed.

rowdy.

I don't want to jinx myself but I think I have sorted the fueling problem.
After my last post I replaced the cold air ducting that was missing and went for a spin. Low and behold the car cut out again
So I decided to follow the mechanics advice and cut a v out of the filter on the end of the sender unit. This has seemed to of sorted the fueling out but on the test run a strange fault occured.
The car was running fine but then it just cut out, the rev needle dropped to zero, the car stalled but no lights came on the dashboard and I indicated to pull over as I coasted down the road and they did not come on either. It was as if I had turned the ignition off. However the car fired up again straight away and I was able to continue without interuption until I arrived home.

rowdy

Thats really weird….cutting out with no power?!?!?

I'm getting somewhere now…I hope…

My problem is that the car starts fine (with the choke) drives faultlessly with loads of power…..but….when i put the choke right in….the car starts jumping and shuddering…like there is some kind of fueling problem…????

I guess..My question is..(hoping someone mechanically minded can help me!?)

Why will my car drive great with the choke out, but like a bag of frogs when the choke is put right in????
Is there a second jet which is opened by the choke, or does the choke just open the main throttle a little???

If i can get this identified i think i might be just round the corner from sorting my problem out…

Rowdy…I checked my fuel pick-up and i have no filter at all….just the pipe and the holes in the bottom.

So far changed -

HT Leads
Plugs
Fuel Pump (just bought ready to go on)
Cap
Rotor Arm
Vac Pipes
Carb Gasket
Fuel Pipes
New Dizzy (just bought ready to go on…)

She'll be like driving a whole new car soon!!!!!!!!

Hope someone can help?
Thanks
Darren

shooterdee, what do you mean by the pipe with the holes in the bottom?
If you mean the brown coloured plastic object with tiny little holes in that is attached to the pipe at the bottom of the sender unit pipe then that is the part that you need to cut a v into, to allow more fuel through.

The trouble is that the holes are so small that when the fuel pump is sucking the fuel when driving, any crap that is in the tank is being sucked against the holes and blocking them, restricting the amount of fuel that can get through to the fuel pump. The car then cuts out and the fuel pump stops sucking, the crap falls back to the bottom of the tank clearing the filter thus letting the car start again. By cutting a bigger hole in this filter you will get more fuel through.

Ok, it might mean changing the inline fuel filter on a regular basis until the tank is fully clear but I am willing to live with this small price if it means I am able to drive the car more than a mile without it conking out.

We have just returned from a journey of 16 miles with no issues whatsoever so for now I am more than happy.

I hope this is of some help to you.

rowdy

Check your hedghog, refer to the manual for the correct test procedure, and don't go changing things unless you know they're faulty unless you have to, you could be adding bad parts into the mix. Pretty much any part on the car can be tested (Discluding probably Carbs and Hall Effect Dizzies)

Madferret said

Check your hedghog, refer to the manual for the correct test procedure, and don't go changing things unless you know they're faulty unless you have to, you could be adding bad parts into the mix. Pretty much any part on the car can be tested (Discluding probably Carbs and Hall Effect Dizzies)

How do i check the hedgehog? I don't have a manual….

Your a bit too late with the other advice….changed virtually everything!!!  

I'm sure i'll find the problem soon….

One fact remains….it now drives fine with the choke out….but kangaroos when the choke is pushed in…..defo a carberation issue…???!!?

the hedgehog is a preheater beneath the carb that aids with cold starting and running.

can you check if the choke is closing off and that the distance it settles to is correct. there is also and enrichment tube that maybe blocked.

have you cleaned the carb out again?

the choke maybe drawing from a different jet so clean all the jets out with carb cleaner and compressed air.

novocaine said

the hedgehog is a preheater beneath the carb that aids with cold starting and running.

can you check if the choke is closing off and that the distance it settles to is correct. there is also and enrichment tube that maybe blocked.

have you cleaned the carb out again?

the choke maybe drawing from a different jet so clean all the jets out with carb cleaner and compressed air.

Hedgehog question - Is the feed to the hedgehog permantantly live? I noticed that on Petes engine bay, his hedgehog is fed from the right side of the engine bay (as you look at it) but mine is from the left. Wondered if i have the wrong wire connected?

Regarding the choke question - It is a manual choke, so i presume you mean…does it return to the correct point? What should this be??? Sorry….learning slowly…but still not quite there yet!

Have i cleaned the carb out? - No…but car going back to my local mechanic for further Carb inspection. I will suggest they have a clean out…

I think it is a jet issue…and as you say..choke draws from a clear jet, whilst the main jet is blocked…or at least has crud in there somewhere which gets sucked in and starts my problem….

Thanks

My loom is slighty different being that mine is a 1997 tintop mk1 golf from south africa, but yours is correct going to hedgehog, so dont worry about it
Pete :wink:

P.s. can you get to me at all depending on where your based and having to travel, has it will be alot easier for me with hands on way

rowdy said

His other suggestion was to cut the filter on the end of the sender unit to free the flow of fuel.

rowdy.

You don't have to cut it off, to comes off with a gentle pull, also not a clever idea from someone in the know, as removing filter on the end is asking for rust and dirt to happily go to in-line fuel filter blocking that, then blocking possibly fuel lines, fuel pump and separator then jets in the the carb.
Thats its job to stop any crap being sucked up, all you have to do is simply remove and unblock the holes, refit tip of the filter back, now free flowing fuel

I didn't cut it off, just cut a small v out of it, as what you say could happen I was worried about happening, but I got to the point of just wanting the car to run further than a mile down the road without it cutting out so as a last resort I got the scissors out.
The mechanic that suggested I did this knew I was apprehensive about it but in the end I figured that the inline filter will stop any crud getting to the pump and vapour seperator, and it will be easy enough to disconnect the fuel lines and blow them through.
The filter on the end of the sender was clean as a whistle but it was still cutting out. Since I have put the cut in the sender filter I have managed to travel twice as far in a week than I have managed in a year previous to making this little modification so, I totally understand what your saying, but I am happy with it.

rowdy

I am still having the same problem…..coughing and spluttering when i push the choke in!!

It also doesn't like it when i give it some serious beans!!

It definitely seems like a fuel / carberation issue…..I have just bought a spare Webber Carb, which i will bolt on, and see if the issue persists. Probably worth giving the fuel lines a blast through to make sure no crud in the lines too!!

Will let you know how i get on…

Pete - I live in Devon, which is quite a way away from you…. :cry:

Still no joy with mine…got a replacement Carb and Dizzy to fit…but just seen this post by PETE

Look at the plugs, leads etc, if these have not been replaced change them.
Remove the orange cap which the leads are connected too and look inside the cap and check that the contacts are not burnt out also same with the tip of the little rotor arm you will see when you remove the cap.
It is defo not fuel vac related as this as been corrected so chance are electrical or moisture being sucked into carb.
Is the cold air feed from air filter box attached and running to the grill, if so remove it but leave the warm air feed, take her for a run on motorway and see if she does anything again.
My friend aka predator on here had kangroo style problems a few week back, i told him to do the same and no longer judders.
Give that ago first before going out buying other parts, but like i say if the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads are not new, replace anyway and it is really a do it yourself job.
If any probs you have my msn pettle, BUT 99% the cause is the cold air feed to carb as your travelling motorway journeys and enough time for moisture to suc up cold air feed and mix with fuel/air mixture.
Reason she starts and runs fine again is the moisture will evapourate with heat of engine and all will be well again.
I don't have my cold air feed in hot or cold months, never suffered from carb icing as it is known since and mine was rectified approx 1 year ago as it drove me mad and i had to do something about it to fix it
Pete

I'm going to try this first….and see if it stops my kangarooing!?!?!
Will let you know..
Cheers

All fixed now…thought i would let you know how!

Like everyone else, i read every forum post, and tried everything..
Here are the things i did.

1. Correct fitment of the Vac pipes including obtaining correct one-way valves etc - (ESSENTIAL)
2. Added a new Fuel Vapour Separator (NOT ESSENTIAL)
3. Corrected the fuel pipes (going through the Fuel Separator) - (ESSENTIAL)
4. Checked the tank for rust (Mine was clean) - (NOT ESSENTIAL FOR ME)
5. Checked the fuel pick-up to see if blocked (Mine was CLEAN) - (NOT ESSENTIAL FOR ME)
6. Changed the Carb Flange (I had an air leak) - (ESSENTIAL)
7. Changed fuel pump (NOT ESSENTIAL)
8. Changed the Dizzy - (Mine was knackered) - (ESSENTIAL for me)
9. Replaced Carb (This was my main problem!!) - (ESSENTIAL)
10. Changed Fuel Filer - (Mine had never been changed!) - (ESSENTIAL)
11. New HT Leads - (Not ESSENTIAL - but a good thing to do)
12. New Plugs - (Not ESSENTIAL - but a good thing to do)
13. Timed and tuned - (ESSENTIAL)

To sum up…my main problem was the Carb. It was dirty and the main jet was getting blocked now and then. It would normally happen when i went round a corner or gave it lots of throttle. Would imagine dirt was getting sucked into jet and causing a block. The new carb is clean as a whistle, and car now drives amazingly!!! I could have probably have got away with just cleaning it out, but i couldn't be bothered, and got another clean Weber for ?100.

Changing the Carb, correcting the Vac Pipes, replacing carb flange were the key to sorting my problem.

If anything changes, i will update the post. I plan to drive the car to work tomorrow (120 miles) - I guess that will be the testing ground…..WISH ME LUCK!

Thanks for everyone that helped….if nothing else i learned so much about what to look for and how the engine is configured etc…

Cheers

JUst drove the 120 miles to work today….constant 70 up the motorway…and no problems. Ran at a temperature of just below halfway on the temp gauge…

Pulled hard up to 100 too….(obviously i didn't really…thats illegal ;-P)

Very happy!

Only problem is - filled up and left petrol cap at garage!! Had car washed and now probably ogt water in tank!!! ARGGHHH!!!!

Still runs ok though….so fingers crossed!!
New cap ordered from Ebay (?9)