HELP - Please watch my YouTube video

No worries bud, i wont be replying to late, just doing wishbones and suspension on mate mk1
Pete :wink:

Ok Good news and Bad news!

Good news is that the flange on the car was exactly as Pete said, perished to pieces, with some decent splits!

Bad news is that my new replacement flange is the wrong one! My 1.8 Clipper isn't actually a 1.8 Clipper, it's a 1.6 Clipper! Basically at some point in its life it has had a new engine and as such where the engine code should begine EX, it actually begins EZ! EZ denotes a later 1.6 VAG engine! Anyway, it's not too much of a problem, I just need to get back in touch with CQ and see if he'll do me a swap!

It does hold me up though, so I've taken the opportunity to give the carb a good clean and am going to set about making sure the vacuum system is 100% right - there are so many connections! Also, since I've drained the cooling system to do this job, I think I'll get some new cooling pipes since mine are looking like they don't have long left.

Unfortunetly for the car, I'm away on holiday from next weekend for a week so it looks like this job will roll on for a few weeks yet, I'll keep the thread updated when I have some news.

Cheers all,

DB

EZ Block is from a mk2, i would also contact DVLA and inform them, won't save anything on road tax, but contacting your insurance will save you a few pennies bud
Enjoy your hols, and when you come back, i want that carb cleaned, pipes new and flange replaced and that car purring, i am watching this thread, you have been warned
Pete :wink:

Hi Guys,

Got back from holiday yesterday so got to work on the car today. By 2pm, I had done it all.

1. Replaced the carb mount/flange with a brand new one,

2. Replaced the whole vacuum system with brand new piping,

3. Cleaned out the carb and got it looking nice and shinny,

4. Checked the fuel tank for debris - completely clean!

After I re-filled the cooling system, I turned the car over. It took a couple of turns, but then sprang into life. Once it had run for a bit I re-adjusted the idle and got it puring nicely at around 950 rpm. I have to say at this point that the engine sound is much better, it is a nice quiet pur rather than a more aggressive/splatty roar.

Anyway, after letting her idle for around 20 mins, I thought I'd take her for a spin. Sure enough, the car sounded much better when driving also and I managed to get a good 10 mins out of her before any problems. Then, as I approached a junction, and slipped her into neutral, the revs dropped to 0 again and she stalled - totally, gutted that my hard work hasn't fixed this annoying problem - the only plus being that it is one job ticked off, unfortunetly though not the cause of my problems!

What can I do next?

Thanks

DB

Me personaly i think something with the carb, i dont know the ins and outs with original carb thus i fit webers as they are easier to play with,hopefully someone on here who knows more about them can help on that
But can you tell me what the timing was set too?
What electrical have you done to her i.e leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs etc
Pete :wink:

Hi Pete,

I can't tell you what the timing was set to since I had a garage do it - not very up to speed on that sort of thing!

As far as electrical is concerned, she has had some new spark plugs, but that's all - I haven't done anything else…..?

She's perfectly drivable and like I said in the previous post, she sounds so much better now that I have done what you recommended. The only problem is this stalling when approaching a junction/roundabout etc in neutral…. When this happens, if I just turn the ignition key off then straight back on she starts again as normal and continues as normal until the next junction/roundabout. I'm thinking that it can't be anything too significant, but have no idea what to try next!!!!

Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers DB

Timing slighty out and co's need doing on the carb
Pete  :wink:

Cheers Pete,

Guess it'll be worth getting a garage to check those before I do anything else…..

Ta

DB

Ok my frustrations regarding this problem just led me to taking the car out for a 10 mile run to see if I can note any other symptoms that might be able to tell me my possible problem.

My little journey led to the following points:

1. After getting the car to idle nicely around 950rpm yesterday (when warm), I turned her on today to discover that she was idleing from cold at 2000 rpm….this eventually returned to around 950 rpm after about 10 mins or so….

2. Under any kind of strain, hills or me pushing the car a little more, she starts to jump and splutter with the revs generally dropping and moving erratically all over the dial….

3. When 2 above happens, this usually result in the revs eventually dropping and the car stalling - happened a total of 6 times over a 10 mile journey….


Does this info help anyone diagnose my troubles?

Thanks

DB

Hi guys,

Just been reading some more posts that describe similar problems. Some mention a possible ignition problem? Is this something I should consider?

I'm just wondering if I can rule it out since my problems only seem to start around 10 mins into a journey.

Thoughts greatfully appreciated, this problem is driving me to distraction and the car, although drivable is pretty useless for journeys of more than 10 miles or so…..

it could be electrical, but i would check that the timing is fine before doing anything else.
But i am concerned the problem is the carb itself, i dont know how they work and are a minefield, i would suggest fitting a weber but that is not the answer you want to hear althou it is the answer if you know what i mean.
You could do with having the carb refurb'd or check'd out by someone who knows what is wrong with it as you seem to have done everything else
Pete

Did you check the choke wasn't sticking on?

Hi,

The auto choke is brand new - it was one of the first jobs i did since the old one was duff….

Thanks though, keep the ideas coming. I tried to call crazy quiffs today to see if rich had any advice - he's not there until the 20th so will have to wait.

Keep the ideas coming if you have them.

Thanks

DB

Your thread made me lay awake all night!  8O

I have the same symptoms as you….but still have to fix my flange gasket. I have done everything else….

Worried now, that even after fixing it…it still wont idle!!!  :cry:

Fingers crossed…..please keep your post updated with your progress.

Many thanks
Darren

DB1000 said

Hi,

The auto choke is brand new - it was one of the first jobs i did since the old one was duff….

Thanks though, keep the ideas coming. I tried to call crazy quiffs today to see if rich had any advice - he's not there until the 20th so will have to wait.

Keep the ideas coming if you have them.

Thanks

DB

I mean did you physically look and see if the choke flap was stuck/closed when it was warm?

Sorry, I'm with you….no I haven't checked the position of the flap when warm….I will check that over the weekend.

I've just this second been reading a post on the Mark II website regarding the correct set up for the 2e2. After reading that post about what a minefield the carb is, I strongly suspect that it just needs to be set up properly by someone who knows what their doing. It seems that the carb is highly reliant on a subtle balance being maintained by a number of variables…..

What is everyone's opinion on this view? I am now confident that my flange mount is 100% correct and also the vacuum system is perfect. However, when it comes to tinkering with the idle controls I have just fiddled, also as Pete mentioned, as well as the COs the timing may also be out….?

Thoughts?

Ta

DB

Db, i feel i am letting you down here, but with a peirburg i am lost fella, surely someone on here can help on this part, if it had a weber and it come to the crunch, pay me petrol and i will be down and have it purring, come on guys someone knows how to set these pierburgs up right
Pete  :wink:

Cheers pete, your sentiments are very much appreciated. As you say, i just need to find someone win knows these carbs inside out. I've been fobbed off by so many garages whose first impression before even looking at the car is to put a webber on it. Don't get me wrong, it may come to that, but i'd rather have a bash at getting this working first! I honestly think it's a set up issue, just need a guru in the Swansea area. Vw dealership near me won't be interested or have the expertise! They just hire fitters now and let diagnostic machines tell them what's wrong. Rant over… Thanks guys, appreciated. DB

I'll photocopy the setup procedure when I get home (and when I remember ) Its in the Haynes Carb manual if you can get your hands on one its very well written and lots of diagrams too.