First ever golf gti... disaster

ferret the engine is an interference engine. if the cam belt has gone in the past and the engine has been thrown back together then a bent valve is exactly what will have happened. if not more than one bent valve.

another option could be the engine has had water in it. giving you multiple sticking valves or even hydrolock.

those figure are well out of range. do as paul has said and give a full break down of how you did it please.

I know what an interference engine is, if as you say it had done that it wouldn't start I'm pretty sure, and to start with it worked very well. Remember he was driving it to start with…. Deal with the facts, not what you think *may* have happened.

He drove it 30miles *without* problems….  :roll:

tomsdubs said

Well i think i did it right

Pulled the ignition leads, removed plug one and tested, replaced plug one and removed plug two and tested etc. Did i do it wrong, i had no one around to show me and the guides i've read and seen have all said different ways.

You need to disable the fuelling (take the fuse out of the fuel pump relay) and ignition (pull a wire off the coil) and do the compression test with the throttle wide open. Also, if all 4 plugs are out (except the one the compression tester is in), you'll get more consistent readings.

ouch sorry to hear bout the engine,im in the same boat got a mk1 with a 16 valve conversion and lic you dont no much but take heed in wot they say on here dont loose heart sure it can be fixed,i got a guy comeing thursday have a look at mine,been told they aint that hard its a basic engine none of this new fandagled fing,good luck your not alone...no help i no jus a shoulder to cry on.......problem shared an that lol

paul_c said

tomsdubs said

Well i think i did it right

Pulled the ignition leads, removed plug one and tested, replaced plug one and removed plug two and tested etc. Did i do it wrong, i had no one around to show me and the guides i've read and seen have all said different ways.

You need to disable the fuelling (take the fuse out of the fuel pump relay) and ignition (pull a wire off the coil) and do the compression test with the throttle wide open. Also, if all 4 plugs are out (except the one the compression tester is in), you'll get more consistent readings.

Does fueling make much difference Paul?

Madferret said

paul_c said

tomsdubs said

Well i think i did it right

Pulled the ignition leads, removed plug one and tested, replaced plug one and removed plug two and tested etc. Did i do it wrong, i had no one around to show me and the guides i've read and seen have all said different ways.

You need to disable the fuelling (take the fuse out of the fuel pump relay) and ignition (pull a wire off the coil) and do the compression test with the throttle wide open. Also, if all 4 plugs are out (except the one the compression tester is in), you'll get more consistent readings.

Does fueling make much difference Paul?

It prevents the engine inadvertently starting! (If the spark plugs were left in and ignition not disabled). If the ignition were disabled, spark plugs left in but the fuelling left, then it would flood and wash the bores, falsifying the results and contaminating the oil; if the spark plugs were taken out, you'd eject fuel/air mixture out of the spark plug holes when turining over the engine. If the plugs were taken out but the ignition system not disabled……..you get the idea.

I see, just curious thats all

...

I'll go and re test tomorrow, could it still be quite serious even though all cylinders are achieving some kind of compression?

tomsdubs said

I'll go and re test tomorrow, could it still be quite serious even though all cylinders are achieving some kind of compression?

Its hard to diagnose noises over the internet. Tapping & slowly losing power and then cutting out?

Could be something as simple as the dizzy has slipped, advanced more and more, then at idle the timing is sufficiently far out to not run properly.

Basically, if you have:

compression
timing
fuel (in right proportion, ie mixture is correct)
ignition

then the engine will run.

i would say as paul said.with your readings from your tests sounds like you need to change the piston rings but until you do a test where you put some oil into the cylinder an see what readings you get you cant be to sure.if i was you just tern the dizzy round a bit see if that helps

Your compression readings are bad do that wet test if it improves your rings are gone, if not its the valves, if you find your results arn't that bad afterall then try the following.

I'd say unless your dizzy is loose leave it alone, go back to the begining, check engine timing (check belt & tensioner too), ignition timing, then make sure all your carb stuff is correct, no sticking chokes, no damaged vacuum tubes, proper seals to manifolds etc….

Investigate where that tapping is coming from is it the cylinder/head, or is it something else.

And dont worry

Cheers for the help guys, thought i'd put some pics up of what im actually working on

http://www.flickr.com/…s/sets/72157615052513297/

Might start a project thread once i think stuff over more and order bits and bobs i wanna change interior and dash wise etc. But first i need to get this main problem sorted, either way i can see im gonna have to take the head of to take a look.

its a nice car mate yea start up a thread keep us in the picture.how much did you pay if you mind me asking :wink:

?1600

He spent 3k on it and originally wanted 2k so i think i got a good deal, the mot doesent run out till may. All other non rust bucket mk1's i've seen are 2k upwards. This is what the guy said he'd done:

factory fitted sunroof
fitted with a 1.8 16v engine and 5 speed box. new twin webber 45 dcoe carbs,linkage,jets/chokes and filters.
new breather system
brand new facet comp redtop pump
new 8mm comp plug leads
4 into 1 race exhaust manifold
all new steering arms,steering ball joints,and boots
front strut brace
zender wheels with new 195/45/15 tyres(no damage/kerb marks but water has got under the laquer in few places need polishing)
new coilovers
new 280mm g60 brake conversion,including big servo and master cylinder,calipers and discs.
all new polly bushes
all new brake pipes and flexi`s
brand new 100mm cabby driveshafts/inner and outer cv`s
brand new gt3 style front seats on propper sub frames
stripped out rear
new badgeless grill and front spoiler
clear rear lights
rear brakes fully rebuilt with cylinders/pipes/flexis/bearings and new handbrake cables
all the chassis has been stripped and cleaned and stonechipped
really good solid car no rot on axel hangers chassis rails or floor pans.

apart from the engine troubles yea you got a good deal do you want to sell it ill pay 1700 :wink:

I would have taken all 4 plug leads off and the plugs out. That way you get the engine spinning at it's fastest and most likely to give the correct reading as per the mfr data. You don't need to disconnect the fuel but it's always a handy thing to do to prevent bore wash. As previously mentioned once you've tested and noted each reading for each cylinder pour a small amount of oil down the bore, approx 2ml, and spin it again, it shouldn't change much from the existing readings, if it does then you have piston ring wear and that's another job. Keep us informed someone will help you, good luck

Hopefully will re-test prob tomorrow, had to order a mk2 haynes manual that covers the 16 valve dohc. I'm fairly confident i could remove the head myself as long as ive got a guide if it comes to that.