Revs drop and cuts out *urgentish*

Hey dudes, ive got a mk1 1.5 GL and it started playing up when i was driving along the revs would drop right off and the car cut out.
If i turned the key off and on again it would be ok, or if not, i could pull over, leave it a couple of mins and it would fire up.

I replaced the
-coil
-leads
-points
-condensor
-rotor arm
-dizzy cap
-plugs

since then it had been pretty much ok until today

now when i try to fire it up the revs drop straight off and wont idle at all.

the only thing i can link to the problem if it helps to get a solution is that the green hazzard/indicator flasher LED is on constant when i indicate or put the hazzards on, even if i replace the hazzard relay.

if anyone has ANY ideas or suggestions it would be muchos appreciated as its my daily!

cheeeeers
adz

Right. I only know how to replicate it and not sure what is actually happening, but I have an imobiliser on my car that cuts some circuit or other. I know it is connected to fuse 7 (or 17) (the circuit that is) cant remember which, off-hand and that I think its something to do with the fuel solenoid circuit.

Have you got some kind of immobiliser on it? From what you say it could be part of the ignition system in some way, maybe the ignition switch is faulty, to test remove the plug from the back and get one from a scrapper and plug that in.

Hope that helps and I'll work out what circuit it actually is in the mean time.

cool man got a few spare cars  

what is the ignition switch? the barrel?

Well the switch itself 'plugs' into the bottom of the barrel, but yeah I guess it is 'part' of it.

right, new thing to try and help fix the problem

with the ignition on, if i hav the cap and rotor arm off, and flick the points with a scrwdriver, shouldnt it spark? it doesnt at the mo?

The spark plug will spark (HT lead in fact), the points themselves 'will' but this usually means your condensor needs to be replaced, and it may not be noticable, normally.

Be careful doing it though as you can get a shock, even from the LT end (green wire)

alredi put new condensor and leads on

replaced condensor wire too.

stil no joy.

should ther be power to the coil with the ignition on?

Yes, obviously it wont work without power

but I know where your coming from, to generate the spark the 0v (ie gnd) (green wire) is switched on & off, collapsing the coil and generating a spark in the HT lead, its a crude but effective method similar to how a transformer works to charge your phone up. I think your looking in the wrong place though personally you need to look where I suggested as I know it will cause these symptoms.

back to the fusebox then aaaagghh i hate wires lol

cheers bud, where to start! lol

Where abouts do you live adz? If its anywhere near Rochdale, pop round and I'll have a looksee.

million miles away dude in gloucester! plus it wont drive, lol.

really appreciate your help and suggestions though bud!

ouch, just checked all the fuses which wer fine, swapped all the relays, still no joy, so dropped the fusebox down and now im scared lol.

i dont wana break anything so if anyone knows what wires/plugs i should be checking that would b great

cheers

I'll have a look tonight what circuit its part of.

Did you check you ignition switch, pretty sure its a voltage rail your losing, try jiggling the keys with it running.

Also do the lights work, or other ancillory items, give details of what works and what doesnt if you dont mind.

no problem man i will hav a look tomorrow

when i have the key turned all the way over the green led for the flashers are on constant so would this point to any kind of relay problem, are the flashers and ignition earthed the same or something.

il switch lights etc on 2moro and see whats what.

Could be earths but your getting multiple faults I think.

Hmmm one thing to try, see if you have 0v to the chassis, tested by using the resistance check from the 0v battery clamp, and then to a piece of exposed body like to the metal on the door switches or something similar.

If your getting more than 2ohm (preferably a lot less) you'll be getting problems and remember to check the calibration by connecting both leads together and noting the result.

Probably best to start with the basics and work up from that.

Get down there madferret, give him an hand, then you can fix it
Pete :wink:

haha yea come on not a far travel for you.

i havnt seen the car this eve so didnt try the lights and other bits.

think i owe u a few beers at a show if we crack it  

this is going to sound rather daft but you considered you may have multiple problems.
the indicators lights can also be caused by the hazard light switch.
the revs dropping of can be crap in the fuel tank or blocked jets in the carb.
both are very common faults and are in no way connected.

filler neck and tank are clean dude, i only buy quality  

and changed the hazzard relay and switch