EX-Engine trouble! Huzzar!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tow (or push) start is a hassle though. Cracking the throttle wide open during starting will help, if the mixture is set too rich and it should start this way, but might not idle. Needless to say, you need some way of measuring the mixture (CO meter or wideband lambda) otherwise you're guessing, once its running and you can adjust it.

a tow/push is alot easier to get hold of than a CO meter or lambda setup so i would go with the easiest option…

ive gotta second the idea of the car running rich but on a complete wim, have you double checked that all your breathers a tight and havent got any cracks..?

as you do seem to be over fueling it may be worth given the mixture a 1/4 of a turn anticlockwise to lean it off… but i've also found from experience, that if you take the rubber intake off (as before to reveal the plate) whilst turning the car over, depress the plate down a little to lean the mixture off and see if she'll start/run… if she does as mine did then your running way rich and could do with a few more turns on the mixture to lean it off a bit (and i mean proper turns)

hope this helps

OOOOps - too late…
…check your injectors with this…

Injector test (pdf)

That is a top guide prowler!

Thanks for all your help one and all, it will be a while before I can get back into my garage, but when I do I will try out all your ideas.

Don't want to tow the car yet, as my brakes don't work!

Going to start with the WUR then set myself up a control pressure test guage (I will knock one up at work)
I hope my boss doesnt read this forum!

I would put money on your problem being timing related, is the CENTRE of the arm lining up with the notch on the distributor.

Yes timing ok, TDC on flywheel and timing pulley line up, lobe's in correct on cam on no1, dissy points to mark on edge and is set on No1 lead. Plugs in correct order.
Used the guide on the forum, so I am pretty sure its ok.

Unless there is something else to check, mind you not doing it today,I think its -2 in my garage!

 

Chris

I suggested checking the position of the arm because I had the same trouble myself once when I changed a belt, I must have knocked the wheel on the intermediate shaft and it was one tooth out, the arm still pointed at No1 but it just would not start. I started on a Saturday morning and flattened the battery a couple of times before I got the car running again on the Sunday.  I've never checked injectors so I don't know how much petrol you should see from them but it must vary according to how far you lift the flap, with that in mind I don't suppopse the needle is stuck in a high position is it, could be worth checking. Its not quite as cold down here (Falmouth). Hope you sort it out.

Been reading this with interest as last time i used mine was just before Xmas. Tried to fire her up this morning to take her to work - not a chance.
Battery sounds a bit tired so it is on charge.
Hopefully i'll get her all fired up at the weekend and then get her tuned to ensure the fuelling is right.

Good luck getting yours going……

huw169, If it still won't go with the battery charged try cleaning the coil all around the terminals, its best to take it off and do it.

Battery charged with one of those trickle charge things from Halfords.
WOT and off she goes. Will be off to work in her tomorrow.

I need to get her tuned though as I can smell fuel   :cry:
I think it is over fueling - at least I hope it is by the amount I'm blowing through!!!

Quick update, tested cold control pressure from WUR to metering head = 16-17psi as per spec
Tested system pressure= 78psi as per spec (How to tune&modify bosch fuel injection book)

So back to the drawing board  :?

paul_c said

Cracking the throttle wide open during starting will help, if the mixture is set too rich and it should start this way, but might not idle. Needless to say, you need some way of measuring the mixture (CO meter or wideband lambda) otherwise you're guessing, once its running and you can adjust it.

Have a play around with the mixture then. I'd suggest 1/2 turn anticlockwise, then try to start it. If it doesn't, leave it for around 10 mins (for the petrol to evaporate or soak away) with the plugs removed, turn another 1/4 turn anticlockwise, try again. Repeat until fixed.

Yeh I will give that ago, cheers.

It sounds like a massive saga does this engine starting job, but due to small child, full time job, drawing and other commitments, i have only spent about 3 hours on the thing in two weeks!

So thanks for all you continuing help.

Chris

i have just read your post and it sounds like a problem that i had a few months ago, i parked her up and she seemed to be running normally and the next time i tried to start her she just wouldnt go.
it turned out to be the pin underneath the fuel distributor, it had somehow jammed wide open and was flooding the engine to the point where the oil in the engine had a lot of petrol in it(thats how i found out, with the smell, luckily before i blew myself up)
i had to take out the 2 screws to remove it from the air flow box and then take off the brass nut, cleaned and oiled the bits (there was a bit of grit in there ) then put it back together(i had to replace the 2 screws that hold it to the air box because the heads on them were no good

i also had to change the oil and filter again
hope this helps

Its running!  

Details to follow……………………………

I think sometimes you can dig too deep and into a problem and get a bit carried away.
I mate of mine Daz (ex-car spark) came to give me a hand, we went through all the aspects of my engine together.

Fuel check
timing check
Air check

Everything was ok, the only question was the spark. With a plug out of the block it would appear to spark quite well, but then made no effort to ignight the fuel.

We then checked for a voltage drop between the block and earth, OK.
Untill we cranked over the engine. Then we lost 3v. Bad earth?

We then clamped some wire from the block direct to the earth, and sure enough it fired into life!!!!!!!!

The engine/gearbox is earthed correctly all joints copper slipped and paint removed, I can only assume it the paint etc, I have used in the rebuild which is insulating the block.

So it now works after 5 years and I am over the moon. Thanks for all your ideas and help.

Chris Wizz

PS, it was dam cold in the garage today!

You tube, my car lives

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