Vacuum pipes on original airbox with weber

Can anyone help with the above questions?
Thanks.

Don't concern yourself with the 2 lower pipes on the carb as they are not used on the 1.5 mk1, as paperwpork shows the carb is used on the audi 80 also and thus these pipes might be used on that, but never have i had to fit anything onto them on a 36tlp for a 1.5 mk1.
As regard the adaptor plate your best putting ad in wanted section, look on ebay or call local weber dealer for one bud
Pete

Peddersgolf said

Don't concern yourself with the 2 lower pipes on the carb as they are not used on the 1.5 mk1, as paperwpork shows the carb is used on the audi 80 also and thus these pipes might be used on that, but never have i had to fit anything onto them on a 36tlp for a 1.5 mk1.
As regard the adaptor plate your best putting ad in wanted section, look on ebay or call local weber dealer for one bud
Pete

Hi Pete,
Thanks for your reply, thats good that i dont need to worry about the two lower pipes.
I will see what i can find then.

Marcus

hi pete sorry to be a pain i have a 5 door gl was a 1.5 auto but i have fitted a 1.6 manual i had her running for a week or so running ok but slightly gutless now this week i drive say 15 miles and my car feels like its running out of petrol and cuts out but it aint (as the clear in line fuel filter is full) when bought the car it had a manual choke carb and the engine i got now had a auto choke,also i didnt know where the vacum pipes went so guessed could this be my problem you think?
my m8 the so called mecanic says its pston rings but i havent seen any smoke etc.
Also do you think im better off with a manual choke carb over the auto one i have fitted at the moment?
thanks for the info you have already posted,this thread is very handy.
thanks fella.

To clear things up.
What block have you got? mk1, mk2, 1.5, 1.6?
You say you've fitted another gearbox so now it is manual?
What carb is fitted to it now, original 1b3 from a 1.5, a replacement weber 36tlp for the 1.5, original depending on year early original Pierburg 2e3 for 1.6 or Later original Pierburg 2e2 or replacement 32/34dtml weber for 1.6? (Auto linkages are different to manual thus you wouldn need to swap some parts on the carb.
It sounds like a fuel issue along with possbile vac setup fault, also timing.
Have you got some pics of the carb so i can see what you got and would help more
More specific you are on detail i can go further fella
Pete

hi mate i will take some pics in a bit and put them up its a 1.6 big block and a pierburg 1b3 auto choke carb this was already on the engine when i bought it.thanks for your help.

A 1b3 solex will not fit on a 1.6? due to the manifold unless the block is  a 78-79 1.6 for example but it would be the pierburg 2e3 not the 1b3.
1.5 and 1.6 pre 80 the carb flange is circular and 2 bolts whereas the 1.6 post 80 is a rubber flange and 4 bolts to manifold.
something is not right here bud.
What year is the block :dontknow:
Give me pics of you inlet manifold from diff angles also bud.
I am off to training and will be back approx 9pm so won't reply until after fella
Cheers  :wink:

hi mate heres some pics of the two different carbs i have , im not to sure what model they are to be honest the one on my car is pierburg and is auto and the other one i have is what was on the car when i bought it and that is a manual choke.

hers the one on my car at the moment 1.6 the engine isnt original to the car.

and heres the one that was origanaly on my car that was an automatic 1.6

heres the tag on the side of it.

any way heres the story i bought an 1982 golf gl that was supposed to be 1.5 auto but the block say 1.6?may be had an engine change,i then bought a 1.6 manual off some one o here for 100 quid the carb that came with this is the auto choke i drove the car for a week then started what i thought was run out of fuel this hapened a few times i would get ruffley 15 miles then get kangarooing and cutting out on the side of the motor way i took off the air filter and the carb was full of oil so i took this off it got me home then broke down just out side my house.
i have looked at a few of your threads etc and im thinking breather pipes as the car when i got it was all over the place pipes going every where made from all sorts of pipes.
in the morning i can get some pics of the manifold etc and try and get some part numbers or are the pics i got up any good to id from?
sorry there huge.
and thanks for the help i will sort you some them chicken burgers at next years events.
thanks fella.

sorry one thing i forgot to ask am i better off with the manual carb or auto the auto when i got it was all jammed and cables home made from brake cables but seemed to work ok.
also the manual weber has got two breather pipes on the back witch one you think i should do the t pipes off.

Blackcherry this is wrecking my head lmao.
Ignore the fact the block is stamped 1.6 on the rear of bottom head as i assume this is where you got the information, my 97 1.3 in my citi says same, it is just vw used the same castings and rebored them that's all.
I would say you you do not have a 1.6 but for sure a 1.5 JB block.
I have got loads to answer but you need to clear a few things for me.
Has your car stands now with engine fitted is it ajoined to an automatic gearbox or manual?
I take it the engine you brought was from a automatic originally.
If you have the new block fitted to your existing manual gearbox that's fine, but then you would need to find all the correct linakges as the carbs in picture are set for an automatic gearbox thus some parts missing from the side.
You would need to find a 2nd hand 36tlp carb for those or a weber dealer.
Me personally i would stick with the weber, but others say pierburg/solex carbs are great when in working order which they are, but i live a manual choke weber.
As regards the the weber in the pic, not having a go but that needs a good damn clean with carb cleaner and the external moving parts i.e the idle screw on the left in the pic needs to be wire brushed and greased so they don't seize or get surface rust as in yours.
Mine gets a yearly removal and cleaned and regreased regardless if not dirty etc which i have just done not 2 week ago.
Little tip for you lol.
I would suggest if you can, if you have a manual gearbox on your car now, get the correct linkages for the accelator cable arm, a new choke cable if not got one already, remove the carb and gut it with carb cleaner using a soft bristle toothbrush.
Keep the carb upside down when your cleaning it so no dirt stays at the bottom and could cause blockages.
Please be gentle with the carb when removing and moving about as very delcate parts inside so nice and slow clean.
You'll find it therapeutic, well i do anyways as i spend approx 40 minutes cleaning it, plus added benefit of knowing it is clean and in workding order and thus eliminate that from any fault occurances.
Eliminate spark by knowing you have good or new spark plugs, rotor arm, dizzy cap.
Make sure you ahve a good seal on teh carb flange if you have one, some people for some reason remove them for unknown reasons.
Use some silicon (CLear) on the edge to create a nice seal.
Some say it's bad to use, it is if slapped on like a someone painting lol, just theedge and all good.
So it eliminates that as a possible cause for an air leak.
As regards the vac piping please follow my tut i posted for the 1.6, it is the same fella so do not worry about engine size.
Another thing check your timing bud as i do feel this is out along with air issue and carb.
Set the block to TDC, run the engine and let her get to operting temp, turn the idle screw so the block runs approx at 1000rpm.
The remove the vac pipe from the dizzy, the engine speed will drop, simply turn the idle screw again to raise it and set it to approx 900rpm.
Now with a strobe light i.e timing gun set the timing to 7 BTDC.
Reconnect the vac pipe back to the dizzy and now the block should now be racing.
Simply no turn the idle screw down to lower the revs and set it to approx 700-800rpm.
Aslong as you have no rust in tank, lines etc and followed the above you will have a cracking running motor.
Last thing i would suggest as i stated in past post is buy a new 36tlp carb as it will cost you alot in time, calls, petrol and money getting the parts for it as they are very hard to get 2nd hand for that carb unless your lucky one day.
This will save you alot of heartache & grief as you know it is a working part and it is now then down to you to maintain it and keep it in tip top condition.
Shame your miles away.
If you need anything else clearing up, let me know bud

hi mate thanks for the advise i will have to leave the timing to my local garage i havent a clue with that sort of thing.
the engine i have in the car at the moment is a manual the car was an automatic until 3 weeks ago i changed the whole lot over pedal box etc so its now got a manual engine.
i will see if theres some engine codes.

the thing is the weber carb was the original one fitted when she was auto and this has two breather pipes on the back of the carb which one would the t shaped pipe go to?

i think i wil buy a new carb like you say but for now need to get it running as breaking down on the motor way is starting to do my nut in i almost set fire to her the other day i was that peed off lol.
thanks fella.

hi mate whats your views in why car car ran some what ok for for first week now when i get about 15 miles down the motor way she starts to kangaroo violently could that be the breather pipes are wrong way round.
the other day i blew in to the breather pipe on top of the rocker cover and it was blocked i took off the rocker cover and it amazingly became unblocked??strange,so i fitted my brand new rocker cover the gauze in side clear and still had the same problem.
when i bought the car it had a green sphere that nothing was going to do i need this fitted?
thanks fella

hi sorry about all the 1001 questions what goes to this pipe on the carb i have just looked at the vacume pipes and there all over the place so i have started doing the t shape as in your posts.
but i have this pipe arrowed im not sure what or where it would go.

engine number starts jb.
i have done the t shaped pipes as in your post now the engine hunts up and down.
theres still one pipe i dont know what goes there it seems to be sucking.

I knew it was a jb and now know other things,
Reet not a clue what the hell that pipe is, as on a manual gearbox'd 1.5 with weber conversion that pipe is 100% not needed.
What i suggest is block it and see if the car smooths out.
Strange this as this is twice now i have had 2 members having a spare pipe or hole on the carb, the other one i told to block it as shouldn't be there and sorted his issues, look in my post approx a week ago.
Just to let you know for info that small screw you see to the right of that pipe that is causing trouble is called the emissions screw,  this will adjust your co's and stop the hunting once you have car running without air leaks etc.
the big one on the left of the carb is the idle screw
And actually block it completely with a cap or anything as it is not used bud.
Please take some wider pics bud of the carb front of block as an whole so i can see if any other causes inc the servo pipe in this also.
And get that carb cleaned will you, it's stressing me seeing it like that haha.
Plus some dirtmight be blocking the idle or main jet in the carb.
Best wishes
Pete

Just realised you have the solex original carb fitted if i am right.
Aagain block it just incase as i honestly never bothered with original carbs as they are too far complex with the electricals.
Plus my vacuum pipe setup diagram is for ONLY weber carbs NOT original so you will have to asl someone on here if they can take a pic of their 1.5 setup which shouldn't be a big thing as there are a load of member's with 1.5's on here
Pete

ok thanks for you help fella so the y shape pipe is oly for weber carb i had weber carbs on my old mk 3 cortina and never let me down.
weber carb i think im gona buy.