mk1 golf notop! *updated original post
Posted
Local Hero
mk1 golf notop! *updated original post
made a start. Infact i've only just started it. Got to get rid of the unwanted stuff first. Buy something off me. That will help. Do you want the complete interior or green thou windows or the hood and frame.
Posted
Old Timer
Hows this going guys???
Posted
Local Hero
shifted unwanted stuff. just gotta get some 80mm lower springs so that i can see wether or not to cut down the doors, dont want to if i can avoid it.
got sheetmetal coming to fill in the gaps, need a large sheet to cover the back. don't know how i wanna do this yet.
should i:
weld up rear hatch and have the boot open from the top.
or
weld top and have original boot
also
if i weld up the doors, how will i get the dash off if i want to?
got sheetmetal coming to fill in the gaps, need a large sheet to cover the back. don't know how i wanna do this yet.
should i:
weld up rear hatch and have the boot open from the top.
or
weld top and have original boot
also
if i weld up the doors, how will i get the dash off if i want to?
Posted
Moderator
just make sure to remove the 4 side bolts prior to welding up doors!
Ever growing range of new mk1 golf parts www.classic-vw.co.uk
Posted
Local Hero
then what will hold my dash on??????
Posted
Local Hero
any pics of the car and what your doing??
Posted
Local Hero
any ideas on the boot? :dontknow:
Posted
Local Hero
bens_cab said
any pics of the car and what your doing??
she's under cover at the moment. will pull the cover off and get some pics when i can.
Posted
Local Hero
but the idea is:
remove everything relating to a roof or side windows so just the front window is left.
the dors will be welded up. even up the windscreen pillar.(saftey is a concern, so want as much original structure as poss.)
then i'll be welding a sheet along where the window came out of the door and remove the edges (where the window scrappers fixed to).
all edges around the rear where the hood fixes will be removed. and a sheet will be reinforced and fill that gap back to behind the rear seats.
i AM keeping the side skirts from my clipper kit and refiting them. with the ends finished the blend them in.
the front and rear bumpers will be replaced with stainless tube items.
and finally to help with access, the whole car will be lowered. thinking down 80mm on the front and 40mm on the rear. or maybe 80mm all round.
thats the final idea. have i missed anything.
remove everything relating to a roof or side windows so just the front window is left.
the dors will be welded up. even up the windscreen pillar.(saftey is a concern, so want as much original structure as poss.)
then i'll be welding a sheet along where the window came out of the door and remove the edges (where the window scrappers fixed to).
all edges around the rear where the hood fixes will be removed. and a sheet will be reinforced and fill that gap back to behind the rear seats.
i AM keeping the side skirts from my clipper kit and refiting them. with the ends finished the blend them in.
the front and rear bumpers will be replaced with stainless tube items.
and finally to help with access, the whole car will be lowered. thinking down 80mm on the front and 40mm on the rear. or maybe 80mm all round.
thats the final idea. have i missed anything.
Posted
Local Hero
why not shorten the car and use chopped down mk1 4 door front doors
that would rock :mrgreen:
that would rock :mrgreen:
Posted
Local Hero
i wanna do the work myself. not willing to attempt that.
sounds scary.
sounds scary.
Posted
Local Hero
Side opening boot, or drop down to access equipment, never seen one with roller shutter top that slides all the way back and under, that way boot gone, the kind of thing off the side of a van, I am sure you could get one custom made, would be a case of attatching the runner guides to the sides and top locking behind the seats, not sure how water proof that would be though?????????????????
"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Local Hero
i think plating the back over is for the best really, easier to do and 100% wter tight
Posted
Local Hero
whatalotafun said
i think plating the back over is for the best really, easier to do and 100% wter tight
So long as its welded properly! LOL
Posted
Local Hero
looks easy enough, how hard can it be :roll:
Posted
Old Timer
Sounds really interesting
But we need piccies
!!!!!! And soon :roll:
But we need piccies
!!!!!! And soon :roll:
Posted
Local Hero
Good drawings of your ideas would be good.
Posted
Local Hero
welsh-mk1 said
Good drawings of your ideas would be good.
LOL
Posted
Local Hero
WELDER NEEDED!
really i do, can't go any further without it. does anyone know where i can get one (only cheap). or can i rent one. prices are appreciated.
really i do, can't go any further without it. does anyone know where i can get one (only cheap). or can i rent one. prices are appreciated.
Posted
Local Hero
whatalotafun said
WELDER NEEDED!
really i do, can't go any further without it. does anyone know where i can get one (only cheap). or can i rent one. prices are appreciated.
No such thing as a cheap welder. Its a case of "buy cheap buy twice" - and that's from experience! Also, if you're properly into it or use it more than only very occasionally, you ideally need to equip yourself with a proper size gas bottle, etc.
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