My Resto 1982.... New engine start videos.

New wideband is working well. Think i'm going to leave the engine stuff now until the final build of the car. As there is only so much I can do sat in the back of my unit revving the engine.
So that's more of a job for the finished car driving around to tune it.
Cant wait for that. Paul Walker style with a laptop on my passenger seat.

The list is getting shorter and shorter up to the point of stripping it down and sending it off to the body shop.

Might be a little bit premature with this but I bought some wheels for the mk1  

Mim 1900s



Dirty



Clean



A bit battered




Chemical metal time






You would never know.

Also have an idea to get my engine bay looking a bit more like this (without the speedo cable). But keeping the original mk1 clocks.



1.4 mk3 golf clocks so with the 120mph clocks. Going to try and retrofit the electronic speedo unit from the mk3 clocks into the mk1 clocks. Wont have a way to keep the odometer working with this though.




Either just hide the whole circuit board in the dash somewhere. Or if it isn't too hard remove all the pieces to do with controlling the speedo and compact it. Anyone have a wiring diagram for the mk3 golf clock plug?

I quite like those rims mate. Nice work on them so far.

I am sure Rubjonny will be able to assist with the wiring diagram

I managed to find a wiring diagram. But its looking unlikely that I will be able to compact down the circuit board. No idea what i'm doing. lol.

I do love MIMS, nice choice Luke.

I've not seen that chemical stuff you used on the wheel rim before, what is it exactly?

Hairyarse said

I do love MIMS, nice choice Luke.

I've not seen that chemical stuff you used on the wheel rim before, what is it exactly?

Thanks!

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199433_langId_-1_categoryId_255230

That stuff. Dries rock hard. Better than body filler for the big chunks missing for sure.

One painted. Might do a clear coat yet. But a thousand times better looking!



And before and after.

Oh yeah I've seen that stuff before. I take it that it wont just fall out and bonds well?

Wheels looking much better, a coat of clear wouldn't look bad though I think do it

Yeah, bonds well. Tried pulling it out and tapped it a few times and it stayed. As it didn't seem like it was going to when applying it.

I might be to lazy to do a clear coat. lol. I probably will end up doing one though as its cheap proper job paint. lol

Impressive stuff then, I'll have to put this one in the memory bank!

That's proper good stuff that chemical metal, got a set of o.z that had a large chunk of the wheel centre broken on one wheel, that I built back up with this stuff and I can pick the wheel up with that section no problem.

My father in law said they have a JCB at work that had a hole in the engine block, and they used chemical metal to patch it up and it's still going strong after quite a long time!

rowdy said

My father in law said they have a JCB at work that had a hole in the engine block, and they used chemical metal to patch it up and it's still going strong after quite a long time!

That is awesome! I swear ive heard a story like that about chemical metal before.

Still enjoy this thread today 😄

Wow has it really been almost a year?? Jesus.

I will continue where I left off then. With the electronic speedo conversion. I've been doing it over the past couple of days.

The mk1 clocks are now a mix of mk1, mk2 and mk3 clocks to make it look and operate properly without the speedo cable. If I knew anything about building circuits I would try and make the original odometer work too with a speed controlled electric motor. But this is good enough. I will have the digital odometer on the mk3 circuit board if I need it for insurance purposes. I will just hide it behind the dash.

Firstly I took all the clocks apart and gathered all the parts I needed






I used the mk2 odometer unit because the mk1 one would be harder to modify as it has a metal frame. And had the needle mechanism integrated in it and the mk2 one doesn't.
The mk2 unit mates up to the mk1 dial perfectly too. It made it much easier to fit the electronic needle unit from the mk3.





I never knew how the cable drive drove the needle dial. It turns out its just a magnetic wheel and a spring loaded cover around it that the needle is attached to and as the magnate spins, it pushed against the sprung piece. This is in with the odometer on the mk1 but the same mechanism.




I was just making this up as I was going along. I used the mount for the spinning magnet to mount the electronic needle from the mk3 clocks. And I used the backing plate from the mk2 since it already had the mounts for all the parts I was using. But I did have to cut and plastic weld the mk2 and mk1 backing plates together as they were different sizes. It's neater than it looks in the pictures.






Then I put it back together with the odometer reset to zero. Looks a bit strange like that. I might add some delivery miles at least. But how many? Decisions decisions.




And then I started on the circuit to drive it.

I used the 1.4 mk3 Golf clocks because they have a top speed on the dial of 120mph, the same as the mk1 dials and the spacing is near enough the same. I did actually manage to cut down the circuit board since most of it wasn't needed. It didn't work at first but I managed to correct my error. Turns out the processor thought it was in programming mode because it wasn't seeing the resistance from the programming contacts that are used on the production line. Came up on the lcd screen —P— Which I had no idea what it meant at first. You can see how much I cut off in the first picture. Most of it was just space for warning lights and things for other models.






And here it is working with an electric drill on the speedo sensor on my mk2.

https://flic.kr/p/rCRrgs

Worked out very well.

Nice work Luke - nice to see you back  

Thanks. Maybe I will do some more work to the mk1 soon. I hope so anyway.