My Resto 1982.... New engine start videos.

Heres the pics of the new bias box. A lot neater. Also added a bracket read to be welded to the bulkhead for strength.




Some nice welding.

I have a job now! About damn time! CWS in Glastonbury, building the recycling lorries for the moment. BUT the boss has a race team and runs many cars including a Ginetta in the GT supercup. I went out with him racing yesterday on my second day of work. And once there isn't so much pressure on him to get the lorries finished I will be on the cars a lot more.
Yesterday I felt bad seeing some new image splits getting some abuse on his car and being chucked about though.

Hello again all. Been a while. Since my other projects are at a point where I'm just waiting for paint or new things to do i thought id have a mess around with this again.
But being awkward as usual. getting no Engine speed signal to the ECU. Its not the wiring. I hope its not the ECU. I hope its the sensor. Yet to test it as I had to come home and google how to do it. Frustrating. Pretty sure I need to put a voltmeter between the signal wire and earth and move a piece of metal near the sensor. Anyone confirm this? Its a hall type sensor.

Still looks the same. Pictures so the post doesn't get ignored. lol.

Mess

Can't help with that one I'm afraid but glad to see you back on it

Thanks! I will try and keep the updates coming. Found out the proper way to test is the way I said. So I'm going to try that tomorrow while I'm waiting for my mot to be done on the Mk2 golf.

Hello matey and welcome back. Good luck getting it all sorted.

Thanks! Would say its good to be back but so far i have achieved nothing. lol.

But I picked up a new crank sensor today so will give it a go tomorrow.
Painted up the pedal box while I was waiting for my MOT

She runs again!!…………..Sort of. New crank sensor sorted my RPM signal out.

On to the next issue now. lol. Changing the millions of settings to get the car idling. I had it idling before, but that was ages ago. And I've messed about with so many settings trying to get the RPM signal working. I'm just starting from scratch again.

I have the spark fixed on 10deg BTDC atm just to get it idling so I don't have to worry about the ignition map. It fires up during cranking then moves onto the fuel map when its over 300rpm (different settings for cranking). Seems to run for a second and then die regardless of what I do with the fueling.
I'm defiantly not doing something right. Need a wideband really. The narrowband is giving very little voltage which would suggest a high air fuel ratio but the fuel I'm putting in is just going up and up to over double the required fuel calculated from the injector flow rates. Which just doesn't seem right.

What megasquirt version are you running?

email me your latest msq file and I'll have a look. PT your email address to me and I'll reply.

is it firing off the primed fuel when you turn on the ignition. What size are your injectors and what fuel pressure are you running?
What ignition is fitted?
I don't have my MS laptop to hand and I can't remember what its called but I'm sure there's a warm up enrichment where its richend up and slowly leans out as the engine warms up.
I'm no guru but did a MS conversion about 4 years ago on a Land rover. Never really had a problem getting it running. Trying to map it whilst on the road is a pain if not dangerous!

Yomp said

What megasquirt version are you running?

email me your latest msq file and I'll have a look. PT your email address to me and I'll reply.

is it firing off the primed fuel when you turn on the ignition. What size are your injectors and what fuel pressure are you running?
What ignition is fitted?
I don't have my MS laptop to hand and I can't remember what its called but I'm sure there's a warm up enrichment where its richend up and slowly leans out as the engine warms up.
I'm no guru but did a MS conversion about 4 years ago on a Land rover. Never really had a problem getting it running. Trying to map it whilst on the road is a pain if not dangerous!

Its an MS1 ecu that i bought built for me.
I turned the priming fuel off as recommended in the megamanual to stop it flooding.
Got a ford wasted spark coilpack fitted, 334cc/min injectors and have a 3 bar return valve in it. It has run with this setup before. So don't see why its now running now.
Yeah it does have warm up enrichments but when first firing you are apparently only meant to mess around with the required fuel to richen or lean the mixture. As if you do it on the map or in the enrichment settings then you are only gonna have to mess with them again once you play with the map.

Started a thread with all the detail earlier on the msextra forum
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=49770

Yeah, I'm pretty sure Half of the coilpack has packed up and I'm an idiot. lol. Cylinders 2 and 3 are getting no spark. My excuse is that the ECU has just a generic map so it was bound be running rough. And its odd that it fired up then dies.

I hope that is the problem anyway. New coilpack time. Fingers crossed. Next time I start moaning about something complicated. Please, anyone to tell to check simple things. lol.

I've had some fun today.

Got a new coilpack, same problem, No spark on Cyl 2 and 3.
Checked the wiring again and is was fine. So went and exchanged it from a new one. Same problem. Ugh.
So I got my mates spare VR6 coilpack and googled what pins were what on the connector so i could run it. Also took the ht leads from my mk2 because they fit. This was a right bodge. lol



Still the same problem. So I took the spark plugs from the mk2 as well. Nice strong spark now. But still dying after 2 seconds. I was a bit annoyed. I stuck the old coilpack and ht leads back on with the spark plugs from the mk2 and it was still a strong spark. So one problem down at this point.

Then while i had the timing light on it while it was dying i noticed that it the spark stopped before the engine died. I did think thing about the fuel pump yesterday but I tried a live straight to it instead of letting the fuel pump relay do it and got no results. But the coilpack is run off of the same live for the fuel pump. See where I'm going with this?
Tried a live straight to the coil and fuel pump and success! Running!

The fuel pump relay has 3 extra pins that looks like it goes to a transistor inside the relay for reasons I don't know. Relay numbered 3. Anyone know what they are for? because I put a normal relay in and now its good. Doesn't cut out now. Im guessing they are something to do with the standard engine and if it gets a signal that the standard engine isnt firing it cuts the fuel pump. And it wouldn't because It isn't there. If you are still reading this. Hi.

Anyway videos

Running at fixed 15 degrees BTDC spark so I could check the settings were right. Nice flame out of the throttle.

http://youtu.be/BlD_K5liUIg

Then running with the spark table enabled. Runs a bit smother with it.

http://youtu.be/5n6gPQgmHUM

Can't figure out how to embed the videos. It wont work.

At the end of the day when i had to go home. I had to put the spark plugs back in the mk2 that I stole for the mk1.  And it was misfiring. I sweared a lot and then realised i had 2 of the ht leads swapped on the dizzy. lol. Felt like an idiot.

I really hate this new post editor on this website.

yea fuel pump relay needs a ignition signal to activate the pump.

Glad your getting it sorted.

The ford edis coil pack is pretty bullet proof and it sounds like your reading the manuals so all good. On my landy we were submersing the engine in water and the edis never missed a beat. The spark off the edis is immense but if you have one duff plug then it will effect both cylinders attached to that particular coil.

It's best not to scrimp on the wiring quality and make the connections as good as you can get them when splicing into loom etc. Soldering with heat shrink over is better than any connector.
In the event of any issues you mention you can at least rule out dodgy wiring!

Yomp said

yea fuel pump relay needs a ignition signal to activate the pump.

Glad your getting it sorted.

The ford edis coil pack is pretty bullet proof and it sounds like your reading the manuals so all good. On my landy we were submersing the engine in water and the edis never missed a beat. The spark off the edis is immense but if you have one duff plug then it will effect both cylinders attached to that particular coil.

It's best not to scrimp on the wiring quality and make the connections as good as you can get them when splicing into loom etc. Soldering with heat shrink over is better than any connector.
In the event of any issues you mention you can at least rule out dodgy wiring!

Yeah its all soldered and heat sinked. Custom made loom. No splicing.

The fuel pump relay did have ignition live. It was just shutting off because it think i have the relay that has the rev limiter in it. And because it didn't have any signal going to the pins on it. It shut off the relay to cut the fuel.

The MS controls the fuel pump power so you just need a standard relay to take the pumps current don't you?

Yeah. That's what I have in now to have it running. Already had the Megasquirt controlling the earth side of the coil of the relay. But the standard fuel pump relay has 7 pins. 4 normal relay pins as you would expect and other 3 mystery pins that were causing it to shut of.
Just curious to know what those pins are for.

I also had it running before on the standard fuel pump relay so I'm even more curious.

Back to working on this. Tidied my workshop so had some inspiration to work on this beast.



Decided to crack on with the left over bodywork that needs doing.



Off with the later rear panel. Second time I've replaced this. lol. For sale if anyone needs one. I took it off reasonably neat.



To make way for this



Just ordered a new boot floor and lower rear panel to do it properly. As last time i did the boot floor it was a bit dodgy. Wont weld it on until i get those new panels.

Also bought a wide band lambda sensor so i can tune my engine properly. Should be here tomorrow or the next day. I like toys.

Decided not to replace both entire rear quarters and just replace a couple of little bits. Like where they had replaced the arch before the swage line was messed up. So I tidied that up. with a new bit. Also started in replacing the lip on the rear arches because they had been cut instead of rolled. Rolled will be neater.

Looks a bit messy where I haven't removed all the old filler. Hopefully the body shop I take it to eventually will do a better job. Would look better if it was just all one colour.

Me too. Its been a long time coming. lol

Bought myself a Innovate motorsports LC-1 wideband lambda sensor.

Now I can tune my engine properly when its on the road. And I will be able to set up the cold start properly.