mk1 golf notop! *updated original post

How's this coming along???


Anyway - you were wanting pics, well on my travels I came across these, 12th, 13th and 15th pics. Enjoy

http://www.volkszone.c…hread.php?t=503145&page=8

ahh nuts was just about to post them.

haha I pm'd those pics to him last night too.

cheers guys, thought i might not have to many people behind me with this one, what with the desicration of a mk1 an all.

pics look good.

any ideas where this man got his eye brow thingys from?

bit like this, only better.

Dano said

Strength to the whole body shell may be an issue if you chopped the roll bar. Its an integral part of the car, not just a safety thing.

I've missed what you're intending on using the car for, show or road? And at what speeds? I'd hate to think of it bending in the centre as you entered a bend, could be fatal.

Sounds like a good project though!!

Dan

Lawsy said

I'd suggst if you remove the roll bar to weld a big bar in across the doortops, ok you wont be in the back seats, but at least you'll be adding strngth back in..

Good plans tho

was going to take out rollbar and replace with another one, just wanted too know if i would need to brace it before removing the old one?

i'm open to ideas on bar bars too. was thinking of having one single seat in the back. or would that look stupid?

i must have a seat in the rear for the dog.

if you cut the roll bar flush with the top of the doors then fit a another bar across that willl keep the strengh or just brace the car then shorten the original bar so its the same height as the screen :wink:

roll bar shape and what to fix it to would help?

little update, i am removing wheel well too.

thinking of moounting spare wheel on the boot or on the new piece of metal over the boot. :dontknow:

what you recon?

if it was me id take a step back and decide what it is you want from the car how you think it should look ect . then draw up a plan what of you need to do .

or the project will take forever  

now if it was adaptorman he have the 9 inch disc cutter out by now trimming and chopping  :mrgreen:

plan of action is:

1) strip all unwanted from car. this will leave just the dash and front screen.
AND ALL RUNNING GEAR.
2) cut out top left hand inner doors to leave access to dash bolts.
3)remove all unwanted items with "angle grinder" i.e. wheel well, lips on doors, rear parcel shelf mounts an any other bits not needed.
4)line doors up then weld in situ and weld in plate over wheel well.
5)start on rear cover part for boot.

well today i am a happy bunny, removed all interior to show a great shell and NO rust or even any signs of repairs or owt. :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

here's the pictures



.

well it's a start.

good start so any ideas of how your going to do this or what are you need to start first ?

well. starting with clearing everything i don't need.
then
i'm sorting out the roll bar so i can remove the old one without any problems
then i'm cutting the pieces from the doors so that i can remove the dash. then it's time to start on the front window. cut out and replace as i feel fit.
short and plastic maybe (if the original can't be cut).

then the doors will be welded up and and an extra plate placed around where the door lock pins are, so that the the step between the door and the rear part of the frame is made into agradual slope. that will allow my custom door cards (one single card for each side(yes they will be long)) to fit without to much hastle, then its time to look into the covering of the boot.

sounds like a plan you got a welder ect ?

only stumbling block.

and you had to find it.

Just remember that:

1. Whenever you cut out something, you need to add something else back in, to keep the strength

2. A lot of the strength of a modern car is due to the SHAPE of the metal, not just the amount of it. ie, box sections, I frames, H frames, seams, etc etc.

3. Some areas of a car are built with different grades of steel, ie high strength steels in critical body areas.

4. The act of shaping metal and welding itself, changes the strength, due to work hardening, tempering, inadvertent heat treatment of the HAZ, etc.

yeah what he said

get mig of ebay i use a 130 sip

Get a Clarke from Machine Mart….. I'd avoid eBay for a mig welder, unless you're desparate and have like, one job to do and that's it. There's a lot of rubbish ones out there and you really want something that's going to make it easier to do the job, rather than something you're fighting with every time you used it.

Of course, Clarke is an entry point really, for pro welders, who'd spend double its price for something robust and smooth to use.

cheers paul.

the only piece being cut out is 2 very small pieces next to the dash bolts (as small as i can get away with). and the rollbar, now that is a large however i do have the help of a man who has a alot of experiance in makng cars from the ground up.
and i have some very good friends who have helped design and build around 30 trikes in the last 5 years.

(my new one is probably going to be an escort diesel.)

welding and fabrication is not any kind of an issue to me.
thanks for all your help paul :mrgreen: