MarsRed Cab 16v Conversion * NOW STARTED*

Hello Buddy really like your thread, it all looks really good.
Its always difficult to help with a non-standard setup, purely because anything and everything can go wrong but reading your last post I thought I would at least try!

I would suggest you take a step back and lets look at the basics because "having a twist of the dizzy" is not likely to solve your problem with any degree of success, and if your timing belt is out by much it will all be for nothing!

Check the timing belt is correctly installed, at TDC No1 all the marks should be aligned, the rotor should be pointing to no1 cylinder (not sure what ignition system your running) and the firing order of the ht leads is set to 1-3-4-2 and are in the correct rotation.

I will be about all day online so if i can help just post or pm (i am a trained mechy

you cant move the dizzy on an abf so its not that, they are not adjustible and so dont have slotted holes for the bolts

Timing is spot on.

Need to know.
Does the crank sensor read a set point on the flywheel like a cutout or magnet?
Reason I say this is bcos I've only just realised that when I was checking my timing. I put the car in gear and gave it a push to get the crank to roll. No drive!

I initially just thought ill sort it after I've managed the starting issue.
Since then I've thought it could be a possibility that the flywheel I got from the mk2 golf may be incorrect it it was ever changed.

So what specific points identify the correct flywheel (mk2 gti 16v) if the crank sensor does read the flywheel as so to speak. As this may be the reason there is no drive or not starting……

You're having a real mare mate! Hope you get it sorted!

I would have thought if you have spark you have the injector rail opening then is it not fuel related ? I spent weeks on mine and it turned out the pump would spin and jam up not pumping if it primes c an you actually hear it buzz ? As said is the cam belt fitted correctly it only takes one tooth out , also have you tried the pump relay , ecu relay just trying to give some possibilities

the crank sensor reads a trigger wheel inside the block bolted to the crank, so dont worry about the flywheel!

Yes. The man who provides answers.
Cheers rubjonny.

this may be a silly thing to add but have you got the immobiliser in there somewhere ? is a be ecu not an immobilised one ? could this be your problem ?

I've wired in the original immobiliser and dlc from the mk3 it came from. And both pumps prime with ignition as well. Only thing I have left to check before I pay someone else is the throttle positioning sensor….

do you want me to come round an hava look dennis?

boyle_sbd said

do you want me to come round an hava look dennis?

Cheers dude. Let me check this tps first then im fresh out of ideas. If it isn't that ill give you a shout. Cheers Boyle

no worries, is prob sumin simple, is there codes logged for a tps fault?  must be a way of testing it, maby checkin the resistance across the sensor with it in different postitions, feeds an grounds an all that???

hooray..
Got it started in the end.

Found a few things which were not entirely helping my cause

1. Fuel pressure is taking too long to build up. Whether this is due to wiring causing resistance or a fuel pump which is on its way out is yet to be established.

2. Spark is weak. Not sure why this is but I will check the mk2 coil, the dizzy and run some resistance tests on the leads as well.

3. Now this is the main issue. The fuel was no longer flammable. Must have been when I changed the fuel sender and didn't leave it sealed. All the vapor must have escaped and screwed the fuel.

So now it starts buts doesn't stay running for than 3 or 4 seconds. Probably idle stabilization valve so I will investigate if it will run will throttle and if it will idle once warmed up.

Ill be spending all Saturday doing this so ill update in the evening and let you all know how its going. And ill upload a hell load of pics as well.

Cheers to everyone for help so far..

Righto,
 checked out the car today

car starts but wont stay running. it just cranks up and then cuts after 3 seconds approx

spark is sufficient but could be improved

i suspect the fuel pressure, possibly the fuel pump is toast or relay is not putting out correct power.

so


Need to change fuel pump relay in the morning just to rule that out as I have loads of relays


Also


Is there a way to check if the pump is at fault or not. Or can I only go by fuel pressure???
While Im on the fuel pump subject. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket fuel pump which can put out a specific pressure or is that asking too much.


What should the resistance be in the leads???

swap a #18 relay to the fuel pump socket, that will bring the pump on with the ignition. check the voltage at the pump wires if its seeing close to 12v you should be ok there. if that doesnt help then id say pump has had it, just get a standard mk1 gti unit these are pretty much the best you can get anyway and will out-perform pretty much any aftermarket pump and are overkill if anythign for an abf so will cope with just about anythign you decide to do in the future (abf turbo? why not )

not sure on the lead resistance, if i was you i would just buy new plugs, leads, cap and arm from AVS Car Parts - [The VW - Audi - Seat - Skoda Parts Specialist]. worst case if they dont help you have a good set of spares 'in stock' which is never a bad thing

check for 12v at the coil with the ignition on, and can you let us know the part number from the ecu? if its an immobilised unit that could be why it is cutting out after its started for a few seconds

It's definatley an immobilised unit as I have the mk3 Immob and key installed through the halo.
I'll swap the relay and check pump and coil voltage say morning and give you a shout. I know for a fact the fuel pressure is not at the required standard.

cool, the best way forward is get the diagnostics going on it, then you can check to see if any immobiliser codes are logged on the ecu. you can then scan immobiliser box to see why its kicking in

1. I've used 3 different types of diag on it. Snap on. A vag specific diag. And the one with the lead from a laptop. None will read ecu.
2. Does the Immob need to be wired on as I only put it on as I thought it was needed.

ok something isnt right with the wiring then, can you hear the immob box click faintly with the ignition? it should also click as you scan the diagnostics. with the vag-com lead did the little led on it come on?

Light comes on with vag.com and I have been able to read immobiliser box. Says wiring faulty. Buy I can never get access to ecu though.

I'll check the clicking of the box