Immobiliser Issues :( Please help!

Owned the car for about 4-5 months I think and never had a prob with the immobiliser before, but now I can't start the engine!

The battery is fine, the immobilier fob flashes as normally should and appears to disengage as normal, but when I turn the key it wont start.

Does anyone have any idea how to resolve this?? It's a Gemini immobiliser….

From time to time, it seems to set off as well as the lights on the car all flash but no alarm goes off. Guessing the sounder was disconnected by previous owner?

Anyone?

Sorry Sam, electrics is not my strong point!

Are you certain it's the alarm/immobiliser or could it be something else?

Yeah certain it's that….just looks like a spaghetti junction to try and remove….. Which I think is prob best option

I would try disconnecting the battery (just take the earth off) leave for a couple of minutes then reconnect the battery and disable the immobiliser with in a few seconds of connecting the battery. In case resetting it helps or it's a wiring problem or faulty immobiliser then it won't make any difference.

Yes I think you're right Sam, do as Mark suggests, it may just work but otherwise I think you'll have to take the leap in and remove it

the immobiliser will probably cut the ignition wire, and maybe the crankign live. some also kill pump power as well. coil is easy to bypass for testing, run a wire from battery + to coil + and that will allow car to start, if it wont crank jump the red/black terminal on the starter from the battery + to get it cranking. if the fuel pump has been cut as well thats more tricky though, need to jump 12v to it somehow

edit: the above is for testign to see where the problem is, then if its determined the immob is the issue you can then think about binnign it or at least looking into why. it might just be a bad splice to the ignition wires, some of the immob installs have been truly shocking (lol)

Had a guy out to look at it today and after looking at the immobiliser etc, which he didn't want to attempt to remove, he found that the problem was actually the ignition switch?

He said it needs replacing, but he wasn't sure if I needed a new barrel or if the switcvh was seperate? Is anyone able to advise??

He said the wiring for the immobilser was all over the place and it would take him hours to remove, which would involve removing the dash. I think if the immobilser gets disconnected and disabled and I've got to replace the ignition switch/barrel, along with other small thiongs I've been planning on doing in that area………I might as well bite the bullet and remove the dash. Has anyone done this? Any tips/pointers? How long do you think it could take?

you might get away without removing dash, find the joins then snip and tug the excess out. if it was a real crafty installer tho the joins may be hidden way up there so tricky to get too. dash removal isnt really that difficult once the switches and surround out, wheel off and some bolts job done. main issue with cabby is the knee bar though, this is what makes access more difficult. it can stay in while you remove the dash or you could try removing the knee bar instead its got fixings up behind it into the A pillars

for ignition switch yeah its seperate from barrel but if its a later cab it will have the spline adaptor on which makes it a right pain, you can just about manage with a bent watchmaker screwdriver to do the job in situ. if it makes your life easier you can remove the whoel column with ignition lock on if you undo and remove the UJ bolt at the bottom and ignition lock bolt at the top.

It's a 1991 cab, so guessing the more tricky side?

I was going to replace the wheel and steering wheel boss, plus the plastic around the ignition barrel needs replacing as its damaged, Plus one of the LED's in the speedo needs replacing as can't see how fast I'm going at night as one light is out.

So it's probably easier to strip it out, remove the immobiliser and all the cabling so it's tidy. Replace the igntion barrel (if necessary), replace the plastic surround and the steering wheel boss and wheel, replace the light bulb on the speedo and also replace the cig lighter and ashtray unit.

Though you're saying the knee bench might be the tough part to get out?

you'll be ok with the knee bar in, dash wiring is exposed once dash shell is off

you may be able to get to all the immobiliser bits just thru the hole when the switch surround is removed, usually its only going to be tapped into the ignition wiring

Having removed my dash 2 weeks ago to sort similar problems it's the way to go. It's not that hard and gives access to all the wiring. Knee bar does need to come out as the screws for the bottom of the dash are very hard to remove otherwise.

I removed my imboliser  as didn't want the worry of a 25 year old device failing leaving me stranded.

i putmy dash in with the knee bar on, but i may have missed those screws either that or the screws were ok to fit once the cover was removed? mine came with no dash or knee bar cover see