ABF CONVERSION

Finally got round to dropping an Abf in my old 1.1.  The engine loom was already modded when I got it, but after pluging everything in I still have few left overs 2 reds in 1 terminal Red and red/white in 1 terminal  White /brown Green/black thin .  Also I only have 2 wires left in the bay for the coil, black and black/red . Does that seem right?  I managed the mech side and rewired to ce1 looms and fusebox. Just struggling with these last bits Would be really greatful for any help! cheers!

I also used this ce1 wiring and relay color coded key as my loom had been messed with Central Electric 1

i think, the 2 reds in 1 terminal is for the coil, also the green one, the full black one iirc is the rev counter

but im mechanical  

pics?

red/white and red in 1 terminal sounds like power for the injectors and lambda heater, this would plug into male spade on E/14

black/green sounds liek oil temp sensor, male spade to dash loom

brown/white sounds liek earth to head for MFA cluster, again matchign male spade in dash loom

2 reds in 1 spade not so sure, if it has the ecu relay above the fusebox then it will have 1 red for that but not usually 2, unless the diagnostic port power also crimped to that…

for coil black goes to coil pin + or 15, black/red to coil - or 1

Thanks for the replies chaps.
(Brad did I buys some shocks and a gti tank off you earlier this. Year?)

I traced the 2 reds and your spot on they go to relay (53) and to the port.
Only wire I have loose from my dash harness is grey/yellow ? 

So, I connected the 2 joined reds to p on the fuse box? Then the red/white and red to e14 along with my fuel pump. So far it's turning over, however the fuel pump isn't running and the battery light stays on for a while after the keys are out and randomly when I turn it over the clock fades out ? I've checked the pump fuse, I left the other 2 wires disconnected at this point. Any further suggestions . Cheers. At least he's turning over!! 

Oh and the starter over runs a bit 

did you fit a fuel relay? socket 2, 67, 80 or 167

Cheers r.j. I had a relay in no.2 but after looking at the drawings I put a relay in no.1 also. Stripped all the wiring back cleaned everything I could get to and tried again….. We have lift off ! But no idle! Read through forums, most of which you appear on (no houses or garages forsale near you? Lol) checked the micro switch, was hanging off but did nothing, think you had a tiff with an Aussie about that lol. Swapped the isv with a kr one I had in some jumble and sorted it, however it is a bit up and down. You were bang on with the wires. 

Only issue is temp gauge runs up and light flash virtually straight away, so I'm guessing I should check sender isn't earthing? I wanted to run a top fill for looks, and the plumbing on my Abf has no t piece for the exp tank breather so I just blocked the pipe that goes to the bottom of the ecp tank which I'm guessing won't help? Could this be the cause? Cheers 

yeah you need the upper pipe to tank hooked up to get the air out, what you can do is have a trawl in the local scrappy, mk4s have a plastic connection in the top rad hose with a take-off for the header tank nipple. keep looking and eventually you'll find one with just the 2 main outlets and nipple, many have an extra outlet and/or a sensor fitting in the flange which is not what you need.

for the gauge take the red/yellow wire off the sensor in the side of the head and see if that stops it, if it does then change the sensor  (the mk1 sensor off the old engine is the same) if not chase the wiring to it back its shorted to ground somewhere

for the idle make sure you have all the connections on the throttle capped off and your ecu is either on the nipple on back of inlet or one of the nipples on your brake servo hose. there a nipple on side of inlet for the fpr on fuel rail plus another one thats easy to miss which is on the front of the inlet near the rail/isv which goes to the side of the PCV valve

Nice one, think I there's a couple of mk4's at the local scrappy.
Yeah got my ecu vac on the TB and the back one blocked so will swap, and work through the rest and update. Bigg thanks. 

yeah that copuld well be why, ecu wont get a proper vac rading from tb as its before the butterfly andf it needs to read after

bit you want is far right of this here piccy:

Nice one, so I've done loads of tidying etc, I got the t piece. So I have connected the hose that comes from the metal pipe which I presume would have gone into bottom if exp tank, to the t. I changed the sender, and I put my meter on buzz and put one side on the wire and one to ground and nothing? Would that work ? Still got the gauge rising upto max and red light flashing?  

Bottom rad pipe is cold, so possible air lock near sender? 

Sorry for posting like a loon, trying to get to harewood Vw today! Got the gauge sorted, read on another post about the coolant level sender! Totally forgot about it! I put a short in and all is well! Can I just remove the relay? Also I've changed the rocker gasket and ill be buggered if I can get it to seal any tricks ? It's the back corner near the dizzy. 
Thanks for your help, got a lot of bits left over from a mk1 4 door that I bought as a donor, had some kr stuff with it, let me know if I can help u out. 

yeah you can pull the relay to disable it

for the rocker gasket vw recommend a smear of sealant at the corners of the humps over the dizzy and timing belt sprocker, plus a bit on the half moon pieces. the selant they recommend is the same as the stuff used to seal later vw sumps

Cheers buddy, got it sealed as you said. Few other issues to iron out. But pretty pleased really. Quite surprised at performance, put a big old smile on my face