1.8t conversion running, few gremlins

Hi all,

I bought the 83 mk1 gti with an abf in it, have since converted to 1.8t bam engine and she is now running. Got a few instrument issues.

Fuel gauge not working, wasn't working with abf either

Coolant temp gauge not working, wasn't working with abf either, I have fitted a mk3 2.0 sender to work with mk1 and Audi ecu. Engine temp verified by cooling fans kicking in.

Vdo gauges ok

Battery light on and off as it should

Rev counter working with converter

Oil light on constant even though vdo gauge registering 3bar on cold idle. 0.3switch to yellow 1.8 switch to black blue as per Haynes manual for Mfa cars (previous owner had this other way around and the light used to constantly flicker and the buzzer used to sound with abf in it) 

Dim green indicator light on constant, goes solid when I indicate left or right, tried 2 relays but both are old, tried removing hazard swith still same

Mfa outputs working

Voltage stabiliser giving me 9.8v when supplied with 12v

I have a good earth to pin 2 of the main plug

The blue pcb on the back doesn't look too clever in some bits. 

looking for some advise as to what to try out next, is there any way I can short out the wires to earth going to fuel and coolant gauges to see if I can get them to register ?

Thanks

Just to add to my last post, Rev counter and Mfa no longer working. I think the blue pcb may be Fubar. I've checked earth points around the track and continuity is hit and miss depending on how I move the circuit board.

I put 12v and earth direct  to the fuel and temp gauge and they both worked fine. when I earth the sensor wires to them whilst connected to the cluster they don't respond. It seems there is an issue getting voltage to them. 

 when I checked the voltage stabiliser yesterday, I did so by connecting 12v direct to the input voltage terminal and was getting 10v on the stabilized output. However, when I test it simply with ignition on, im only getting approx 4v at the input side and the output is reduced to about 2.8v. I have checked the ignition live and perm live at the main plug and both giving over 12v. Shouldn't the 12v show at the stabilized input too?
 I tried connecting a croc clip to the stabiliser ground and battery earth but it didn't help.

Regarding the indicator light, I opened up the hazard switch and it seems empty inside, with the terminal plate at the bottom and plastic rockers doing nothing. I presume there should be spring plates or something to switch contacts ? If so I will get a new one and hopefully the indicators will be working. 

yep you need new clocks by the sounds of it, and a new hazard switch!

Fitted new hazard switch, hazards now working and it will indicate right. Unfortunately it won't indicate left. The stalk doesn't click down left as it should just kind of slides down and the relay doesn't kick in. Will the lack of positive click cause electrical issues? Is the click mechanism on the stalk it's self or the column?

For the clocks, good ones are commanding a premium while the rest seem to have poor plastic pcb's or other issues. I'm tempted to go down the mk2 clock route. I've seen that the wiring looks easy as long as it's a 2 plug unit however I am not sure if they use the same oil monitoring system ?

having all the luck! sounds like indicator stalk is also bust

mk2 1 and 2 plug clocks will work with the mk1 oil pressure switches, its the same setup

Hi rj,

Just bought a set of clocks at a pricely sum but they do look very clean and so does the plastic pcb on the back so fingers crossed it's a good one as described.

They don't have an mpg indicator, rather the temp gauge is up top so I think they are late cabby ones. Hopefully they will be plug and play !
 

they'll work apart from you wont be able to switch between mode 1 and 2 unless you add a later stalk and add 2 wires to the plug on the back

not buying this one but is this the item I need ? And if so, when I buy a replacement indicator stalk can it be any mk1 or does it need to be off a later cabby too ? Just realised it doesn't have rear wipe function :-( 

 http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-JETTA-CADDY-MK1-CABRIO-SCIROCCO-MK2-WIPER-MFA-STALK-SWITCH-533953503H-/400966852864?nav=SEARCH

aye that'll do fine. it doesnt have to be a cab one specifically, just means it will push forward but wont do anything when you do so as there wont be a wire for it. if it bothers you you could glue in a wedge of plastic tyo stop it goin forward, thats the only difference. ive converted a vento stalk to golf by cutting out said wedge

Not sure if I'm following you RJ, I have a tintop and need the rear wipe ?

you mentioned late cabby so i thought you had one

the indicator stalk is the same for mk1 and convertable, plus early mk2 golf up to around 86ish. the wiper stalk is also the same as early mk2 golf. If you end up with a cab stalk just trim the peg off that stops you pushin the stalk forward, job done

between 86 and 89 the MK2 changed to the chunky stalks but these will still fit and work but be warned they come further forward so depending on your steering wheel you may not be able to get your fingers between, as I found out

Lol thanks rj, I will keep an eye out

Well, got new clocks and new indicator stalk and all is good, even have a nice blue main beam warning light ! Oil warning system and coolant level warning all working as it should.

Only a couple of issues left and the wiring can get a clean bill of health:

- handbrake warning switch seems to be too small to reach where the handbrake lever should push the button down, I think that someone has tried to use a door switch in the past but I don't have one on the car to compare

- oil temp vdo gauge is reading way too high, when Mfa oil temp and water temp around 90 the vdo shows about double. Rj you told me on another thread some time ago that the vdo part number I have is an Audi item and may require a blue temp sensor, but I was to try a mk1 sensor first, do you think blue temp sensor will fix this ?

- red black cable terminal to tail light plug has snapped, half the terminal left in the plug. What terminals are these ?

- need a connector and terminals for the 2 wires to the fuel sender, someone has previously silicones these onto the sender plug. Are these still available ?

Thanks

Pippo




 

1. is it a black wire, possibly a brown wire under a black over-sheath? if so thats the one. if you trace it back to the fusebox you'll see it plugs into a spade back here so easy to strip it out and replace with another one, or make your own. or just extend it whatever is easier for you

2. if its a 0-170/180 style with a needle that lights up chances are yes, you need the blue sender. you arent trying to use the same sender for both the dash and the vdo though are you? that doesnt work!

3. standard timer, from farnell one of these:
927827-2 - female - 0.5-1mm (2.00 - 2.70 insul.) 0.128 per 100
927831-1 - female - 0.5-1mm (1.40 - 2.10 insul.) 0.162 per 100
927837-1 - female - 1-2.5mm (2.20 - 3.00 insul.) 0.231 per 100
927829-5 - female - 2.5-4mm (2.70 - 3.70 insul.) 0.318 per 100

or ref 3-2030 here:
Modular Fuse and Relay System: Polevolt Ltd

4. connector is widely available, though do you need the L shaped boot for lower installation height or is the plug facing sideways? the socket ias the same as used on the coolant & brake fluid level switches, plus various others. the terminals inside are 2.8mm latced spades, widely available either from polevolt above or farnell:
160655-2 - female latched - 0.5-1.5mm (2-3.1 insul.) 0.07 per 100

Thanks rj

1. The wire is there and working fine when I earth it, it's the actual handbrake switch which is not right. When the handbrake lever comes down nothing pushes the switch button down. It's like the switch needs to be longer to reach where the lever would act on it

2. It is a 0-170 yes. It has its own sender, I have 5 oil outputs :-) 

3. Cheers :-) 

4. Connector is pointing upwards, I managed to find an old brake master connector and this will bend over enough to get cover plate on. Just need the latched female connectors, I have some however the latch is not in the exact same place as the originals and they therefore sit deeper in the plug, I will give them a try and see. L shaped boot would be handy though

1. ah, switch is part number 171947563A but NLA. speak to jelly on here or classicvw or wherever you shouldnt struggle to find a replacement

2. ok go for the blue sender, 049919563B at 18.36+VAT

4. ok, maybe cheapy chinese versions or possibly the socket housing oyu have is damaged? anyway the ones I've got from farnell have fitted all the VW connector housings I've tried them in