Twin 40 upgrade on an 83 1.6 gti....

Hi guys, recently purchased an 83 mk1 gti series 2. It had the k jet system removed to upgrade to the weber twin 40's, I have the webers, manifold, fuel pump from facet and a filter king.

Unsure on if I replace the oem fuel pump, run new lines to the filter king and then to the 40's and hope it all works. 

Any advice here would be greatly appreciated, pics of other conversions or your own conversions I'd love to see. Thanks guys. Craig. 

I would call that a downgrade rather than an upgrade !!

I am sure that the guys that have done this conversion in the past will be along soon with some help.

Original K-Jet pump will be a high pressure pump, you need a low pressure pump - like the Facet pump - to supply the carbs.

If its a road car, I don't see any benefits, k-jet isn't the limiting factor, its the cyl head I believe, the carbs sit right above the hot exhaust manifold, at least fit the 16v engine if you insist on the 40,s

Ok il change the oem pump and go from there. It's a project car so il change it over to be different and have something different is all I'm after. Not after performance benefits as such just want to enjoy the car and have a nice noise. Il be making a heat sheild and possibly alter the rain tray but il see once it is in. 

All abit of fun atm. I can always go back to oem spec. 

I've just got my 40s and manifold and plan to downgrade from k jet 

Would love to hear a how to brief 

I would definitely recommend fashioning a heat shield of some description and wrap your exhaust manifold with a good quality heat tape.
One of the possibilities is that the fuel will evaporate instead of atomise and it will run like a bag of the proverbial, be quite difficult to tune and to achieve balance.
I used to race an MG midget years ago with twin 40's with a race prepped engine. I could not get it to run correctly at all. It was fine when first started but as it got hot it all went to rat **** . I eventually took it to Burlen fuel systems in Salisbury who lifted the lid and straight away said 'Ah no heat shield! there is your problem' Installed a heat shield about £20 and thereafter it was perfect.
Whilst I do not wish to sound patronising It is important to remember when tuning; the air charge should be as cold as possible to give maximum density and therefore max oxygen content for combustion

Pincher said

I would definitely recommend fashioning a heat shield of some description and wrap your exhaust manifold with a good quality heat tape.
One of the possibilities is that the fuel will evaporate instead of atomise and it will run like a bag of the proverbial, be quite difficult to tune and to achieve balance.
I used to race an MG midget years ago with twin 40's with a race prepped engine. I could not get it to run correctly at all. It was fine when first started but as it got hot it all went to rat **** . I eventually took it to Burlen fuel systems in Salisbury who lifted the lid and straight away said 'Ah no heat shield! there is your problem' Installed a heat shield about £20 and thereafter it was perfect.
Whilst I do not wish to sound patronising It is important to remember when tuning; the air charge should be as cold as possible to give maximum density and therefore max oxygen content for combustion

Thanks for that mate, il defiantly be doing that and iv seen a rain tray design that allows cold air to be drawn in also. Was looking into zircotec coatings, for the sheild and exhaust pipe. Much better than wrap. 

Not only will the sheild be helpful but serve as a drip tray just incase the fuel line works it's way loose perhaps, best to be safe. 

So it's replace fuel pump, run new line/hose to the filter king, from the filter king to the webers and job done. Obviously set up and balance etc, any wiring I can loose? 

Cheers guys. 

Please show me the shield design