Throttle bodies
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I'm looking for information on running throttle bodies. I want to run a set on a 2.0 bubble block. I was thinking of doing a 1.8t conversion, only I feel it's a little moden for my 76. I already have a bubble block, it's apart apart at the moment because I was doing to run it with injection in my Caddy. But, if I can get it running on a set of bodies it would have the look I want as well as a bit of go! Injection I way to untidy for what I have in mind.
Any advice is much appricated. I did try the search but it's useless.
Cheers good people 👍
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I am doing the same as you 3A bubble block with a reworked GTI engineering head Audi 2,2 throttle body and WUR. I have a specialist tuner local to me (Autotronix developments) who are going to rework the original Jetronic system.
To be honest the KR was a bit too severe for the wife pottering around hence the change of direction
Last edit: by Pincher
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Reason the Toyota throttles are so popular here by us, you can pick up a used set for a fifth the price of a set of Jenvey or Precision throttles.
Pic of my ABF engine:
1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily
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Mcdubber1 said
I'd quite like to run a set of bodies in the future also but the cost of a set like Jenvey along with everything else is just too much money tbh but the likes of these Toyota bodies does appeal. What are they off Torker? I seen a set for sale that were Toyota 4AGE throttle bodies but I know very little about them? What sort of gains can be had on a fairly standard engine with them all bolted up and mapped?
You get two types, 43mm 'Silvertop' and 45mm "Blacktop' throttles. The black and silver refers to the colour of the tappet cover on the motors the throttles came from. Silvertop 4A-GE up to 1995 and then replaced by upgraded Blacktop 4A-GE motor (in RSi/RXi Corollas)
43mm is better for worked 8V and lightly worked 16V motors, 45mm is better for fully worked 16V motors. As a rule of thumb you pick up about 10 wkw when fitting throttles to a fully worked 16V motor, we are at 1680 meters above sea level so might be more closer to sea level (we call it altitude tax). Fitting throttles to a fairly stock 8V motor is not really recommended, you have to improve the breathing and ability to rev before the motor can fully utilise the throttles, 16V is a different story though.
1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily
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easternkris said
i have been trying to get my head round ITB's, IDH etc. i was thinking about converting my abf to throttle bodys, but not sure how to go about it, i know it a simpler convervsion on a KR due to the lack of sensors, from my understanding so far i would have to run a emerald or megasqirt ECU due to the knock sensor and cam sensor in a ABF. am watching a set of direct to head bodys build on GXR 750 throttles on ebay. if any one has a link to a good build thread or some really good reading material so i can get my head round what i would need to do that would be great.
Converting an ABF to throttle bodies is easier than with a KR as the ABF already has many of the items needed for the management. But for either its 'just' a matter of buying Jenvey DTH's, or generic throttle bodies with a suitable inlet manifold (generic throttle bodies share the same mountings as DCOE carbs) then fit your choice of aftermarket management and get it tuned. But it ain't cheap.. the costs add up rapidly.
The same goes for the 2.0 bubble block, except you can't buy DTH's. So buy a set of generic 40 or 45mm throttle bodies, an inlet manifold and a managment system..
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VW GOLF MK5 / VW GOLF MK1 Owner
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