Mk1 Clipper cabrio - 2.0 16v ABF conversion

Well… engines in  I think I've got most things right, I'm just struggling to figure out how to connect up the heater hoses. As per the pictures, do I use the metal pipe work from the mk1 or am I missing something? Thanks for all the help couldn't have done it with out the forum. 

petal pipe depends on the coolant hoses on the engine, as mk3 layout differs to mk1. looking at it i think you have a mk1 pipe, or a mk3 AGG/ADY with that extra wee pipe on there, the abf one doesnt have this. you can cap it off if all the other hoses are ok.

the other heater hose comes from the outlet on the side of the head, you may need a mk1 piep for this as i think the mk1 matrix outlets are smaller diameter than the mk2/3

Thanks RJ, sorted the hoses now. Just stuck on three plugs from the small engine wiring. 



This one is three pin but only two are used with a black and a white wire coming from it. 

This one is two pin with a brown/white and a yellow/grey wire. 

This one is three pin with a black wire, brown/white wire, and a blue/white wire. 

Any ideas? 

1. ISV, its hidden under the plastic spark plug lead tidy/cover thingy
2. idle switch, 2 pin on the back of the throttle body
3. speedo sender for mk3 clocks, ignore

Ahh ok, I think I've plugged another two pin into the idle switch in that case. I'm not with the car at the moment so can't recall the wire colours but it is about the same length as the two that plug into the throttle body. Any ideas with on that one with this limited info?   cheers 

Ahh ok, I think I've plugged another two pin into the idle switch in that case. I'm not with the car at the moment so can't recall the wire colours but it is about the same length as the two that plug into the throttle body. Any ideas with on that one with this limited info?   cheers 

This is the last plug that I'm unsure of. It's got a brown/white and a grey/yellow wire??

Also, I tried turning the key today, despite not knowing what that plug does. Anyway, unfortuantly nothing really happened apart from the sound of a relay or two and the sound of no.17 fuse blowing. There's no obvious shorts as far as I can see. Any clue what could cause this? Can't say it enough, thanks for all the help 

Ok, so I mistakenly put the starter motor wire on the wrong pin, so at least it turns over now. I've gone over all the wiring for shorts. I'm reasonably comfortable in saying that I've sorted any signs of damage and possible causes of any shorts but #17 fuse still burns out on ignition. I've wired everything up as follows -


1. Blue-alternator pin D+ — I had to borrow a two pin plug and wired it straight to the alternator pin closest to the engine block!? - then to spade on the chassis leg.

2. Red-ecu pin 7-starter feed — I used a pin from a spare plug and pop it in C/18.

3. Brown-Lambda probe pin 2 — I put a spade on it and plugged it into the round set of earth spades under the dash.

4. Yellow/blue-ECU pin 6-Fuel pump earth trigger — D/13

5. Black/white-ECU pin 9 — ECU relay pin 86a

6. Red/white-Lambda probe pin 1 — I used a pin with two wires crimped to it, from a spare plug agian as put it in E/14

7. Used the other wire now coming from E/14 and fed it to the fuel pump.

8. Black/yellow-ecu pin 23 — ECU relay pin 87

9. Yellow/red-Coolant temp sensor-T28/27 — D/29

10. Black-ECU pin 38-D/2

11. Used the other wire (already two there) from D/2 — ecu relay #30 - pin 86

12. Yellow-High oil pressure warning switch — D/21

13. Blue/black-Low oil pressure warning switch — D/1

14. Red-Fuel injector power — Crimp spade to go to spade N on the fuse box.

15. Red/green-Coil pin 2 — now this one confused me. I went to fit the mk2 coil that I brought, to see that it was exactly the same as the one already there. Also the plug from the old dizzy plugged straight into the new one. So I left it as it was and just taped up the red/green wire from the ecu???

I've checked and double checked all these wires along with RJs description on the ecu relay wiring but still the #17 fuse blows. Not sure where I've gone wrong   

Just a bit of an update, I've had success with finding what was blowing the fuse. Totally my own stupidity! I thought I had swapped the idle switch plug with the one I was meant to picture and ask about, but instead ended up asking about the same plug twice  serious head banging moment!

So I still have a plug with a black wire and white wire. The black wire joins to the wire going to ecu pin38 and d/2. ???

Also there's a three pin plug that I believe is for the hall sender, now I might be a little confused here, but isn't this what is meant to fit into the plug under the dizzy? As this wouldn't possibly fit, plus i still have a plug that was attached to the harness and going to pin 8 that's now not attached to anything!?

Anyway with the fuse sorted, I then found I had no spark (at least on plug one) I have now found three of the four ht leads are bad, I think I might have pinched them when fitting the engine at some point. So going to have to get myself some new'uns, anyone tried the electrospark ones that gsf sell? They are usually £49 but with their 35% off on weekends, I thought they might be worth ago at £32? 

Right… sorted the spark problem i believe. Needed to tap pin 8 onto the tci plug pin 6, i think it was. Anyway, it now starts for a second or two then cuts out. I was told that ecu had been defeated so didn't need the immobiliser, halo or key. Evidently thats not the case, but the bloke no longer has the parts. After a bit of reading, i'm going to attempt to fit a matching immob and key then match the ecu to them using vagcom. Has anyone had any experience with this as i'm totally clueless at the moment.

I bet you plugged the breather heater plug with the black and brown wire into your idle switch right? if so this is what was blowing your fuse, this plug can be binned if you trace the 2 wires one earths to head so remove, the other taps into the ISV power wire just snip it and tape up to seal.

the plug with black and white wires is a 3 pin right, but nothing in the middle thats the isv, its under the plastic lead holder on the front of the inlet.

for the startup issue will it run with throttle? if so its isv issue or an air leak most likely.

if not it may be the immobiliser, or the crank sensor has failed. check the crank sensor is plugged in though, its the connector with the red/yellow, green/black and brown/blue wires. Ive seen people plug the speedo sensor plug into this before

That's exactly what I did mate It seems to start with no problem at all, just cuts out after a second or two. Spark cuts out and everything. That's what makes me believe the ecu is still immobilised. Anyway, I've ordered a defeat chip from VW proformance parts. Should hopefully receive it either tomorrow or Wednesday so will let you know how it works out. Still confused why I have a hall sender plug not doing anything though? Is this right? 

no the hall sender plug should be plugged into the 3 pin plug on your dizzy, if its not there you need a new one.

for the spark issue it could be immobiliser or the crank sensor, if you plug it into diagnostics you can check the engine speed signal to make sure the ecu is seeing it, plus make sure you've plugged the right connector into it

Damn it!! I'm confused now, I only have one plug on the dizzy and I've got the coil 3 pin plug going to it with pin 6 from the ecu splice onto the one of the wires. I'm getting fed up now, I've put a defeat chip in the ecu but still starts then cuts out. Maybe something to do with the hall sender and coil wiring not been right? I'm hoping it's not the crank sensor as I've spent far too much on this already and they look to be expensive. Need to get hold of a vagcom port too 

ah! you're supposed to cut off the mk1/2 dizzy plug from the tci harness, just leave the coil, tci and battery wires on. splice tci pin 6 to the ecu green/red wire that used to go to the mk3 coil, and bin the other 2 dizzy wires. then plug the abf dizzy plug into the dizzy

Ok here's where I'm at…

I've sorted the hall sender/coil wiring out as instructed by RJ (thanks again)

I've replaced the chip in the ecu with what should be a chip that's had the immob deleted.

Unfortuantly the same starting then cutting out after a sec or two is happening   

I've now replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one from gsf but still the exact same thing is happening. 

I've wired up a vagcom port and I ordered a cable a few days ago so will hopefully receive that tomorrow and have ago at looking for any fault codes. I'm kind of thinking it's still the immob, maybe they sent the wrong chip or something. Anyway I suppose vagcom is the only way to tell. 

worth double checking with the guys who supplied the chip, there are several ecu codes for the abf each uses a slightly different chip setup for the map, i assume same is true for the immob?

other option is find any mk3 matched immob box and chip and try to pull the complete loom out. then its ignition and earth rto power it, 1 wire to ecu and the other to the diagnostics port and match it to your ecu with vagcom