Skip navigation

Help my new BBS RM's are leaking through the rims ??

Post

Back to the top
Hi

i have just bought re-manufactured RM's and when I got the tyres on today they leaked through the Rims !!!!

What do I do to sort this ??

All advice greatly appreciated :-)

cheers

Chris

Last edit: by Massbad69

Post

Back to the top
Nightmare mate :(
I think you might have to spilt them and reseal also check the bolts have been tightened to correct torque setting,but I'm sure a BBS guru will be along to put you right :thumbs:

Last edit: by Swerve




171761 views (107 Kb)

Post

Back to the top
Mass I had the same trouble when I built mine first time, well I'm blaming the rubbish RTV sealant that I used anyway lol (didn't seem to cure correctly and was still wet when I re-split em), It'll be the joint leaking between the barrel and lip mate letting the tyre pressure find it's way to the bolt holes, tyre off job and reseal unfortunately by the sound of it :ocf_emoticons__BangHead:

Post

Back to the top
Cheers guys

Yes I've now realised its not the bolts it's the rims obviously.

I was wondering if a bead if tiger seal right round the inside bead would be good enough ??

Post

Back to the top
Take the tyres off take all the bolts off split them clean all the silicone off then re seal I use a thin bead of stikaflex round the barrel on outside of bolt holes then put lip on and torque in a star pattern to 15 1b/ft then smear round bead with finger till flat then when dry add a good bead of silicone unibond I use smear with finger let dry and repeat 

Post

Back to the top
Ahh sorry had it in my head it was from the bolt holes for some reason, if it's around the bead where the tyre sits a tyre shop will usually be able to break the tyre off the bead, clean it up and add som tyre sealant to sort that no probs,

Post

Back to the top
Could I just use the unibond sealant now as a secondary bead ??

The existing bead looks best and precise but poss hasn't gone off correctly ??

I don't want to split them as I would rather send them back !!

Post

Back to the top
Sorry mate I obviously got confused between "bead" where the tyre sits (edge of rim) and bead of sealant between lip and barrel, so it's leaking from where the two split rim parts are joined yeah, if that's the case yeah you should be able to get a seal if you rake out as much of the old sealant as you can, clean it up and give it a key (scotch wheel in a drill is good for this) clean down with white spirit or mild thinners so it's spotless and dry, then reseal and let it cure for 24hrs, should do the job,  good luck :thumbs:

Post

Back to the top
Not sure about layering it on old never tried this is your wheels were talking about best to do it properly I suppose 

Post

Back to the top
Thanks all

I've got the correct sealant coming from a supplier up here in a weeks time when they get more stock in.

Then I will remove any redundant sealant and clean and sand the area, then put the new sealant on and leave it for a day at least.

Then get the tyre fitter back and try again :-/

Post

Back to the top
You will get there in the end mate, keep the faith  :)

SOUTHWEST Regional Host. Bristol Meet - 1st Friday of the month - Toby Carvery Bradely Stoke Bristol Bristol Region Facebook Group
1.8T CABBY
TINTOP THREAD (SOLD 2016) SPORTLINE THREAD (SOLD 2015) CLIPPER THREAD (SOLD 2012) Banner

Post

Back to the top

Post

Back to the top
i had a nightmare with mine when first built are you sure its not the bolts?i took my wheel off put it in a big bucket full of water could see the air bubbles coming from the bolts ,tightened a few up others i had to take out and put a tiny bit of sealent on them worked though

Post

Back to the top
No it's the rim I'm sure  :-/

Post

Back to the top
When I rebuilt my RMs i noticed that between the mounting face between the wheel and the lip, there was a small indentation running all the way around where the edge of the lip sits against the face. They were filled with paint and corrosion so (carefully!) I used a small flathead screwdriver to remove it all and give a nice crevice for the sealant to sit in. The mounting face was was with thinners, 240 grit sanded and then washed with thinners again. placed a bead of sealant around 6mm thick in the crevice and then placed the lip on and torqued the bolts to 14Nm.

Flipped the wheel around and put another 6mm bead between the lip and the barrel. Leave to cure overnight and then fit tyres. Had the tyres fitted on the car for 3 months and they haven't gone flat. Used a £3 tube of evostik sealant which did 2 wheels easily.

Doing the other 2 tomorrow so if needs be i can provide a step by step pictoral guide for you?


1973 BMW 3.0CS "Helga"
1981 VW Golf GTi "Agolf"
1986 Ford Escort RS Turbo S2
1987 BMW M535i - 'Klaus'

Instagram: @ahmet_e9

Post

Back to the top
Thanks a lot that would be great :-)

I'm on hols just now and I have ordered the sealant which should arrive after I get back this weekend.

Post

Back to the top


1973 BMW 3.0CS "Helga"
1981 VW Golf GTi "Agolf"
1986 Ford Escort RS Turbo S2
1987 BMW M535i - 'Klaus'

Instagram: @ahmet_e9

Post

Back to the top
That's marvellous

The guy that's rebuilt mine has just not put any silicone around the rim on the underside.

So I will run a bead around and then smooth it with my finger.

I then hope that's enough to hold the air.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Cheers Chris

Post

Back to the top
Anytime fella :)


1973 BMW 3.0CS "Helga"
1981 VW Golf GTi "Agolf"
1986 Ford Escort RS Turbo S2
1987 BMW M535i - 'Klaus'

Instagram: @ahmet_e9

Post

Back to the top
When i rebuilt mine I put sealant around the mounting face that the outer lip sits on. torqued up all the bolts then ran sealant all around the visible joint. I only used standard bathroom sealant when doing this and all four tyres have been sealed like this for well over a year. I also built some OZ turbos in the same way and those havent leaked for a year either.
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.