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new installed clutch/box problem

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new installed clutch/box problem

Hi, have just fitted replacement 4 spd box to my 1.6D after last one died a slow death. Took opportunity to replace clutch at same time.

With the old box/clutch, bite point was pretty high i.e. the pedal was almost fully up before the clutch engaged. The cable adjuster was almost fully screwed out and this gave an acceptable amount of free pedal travel.

The truck is driving fine with new box/clutch but I am concerned as the bite point is now much closer down to the floor, and there is far too much free travel in the pedal (3-4 inches!), this is with the cable adjuster fully screwed out.

Anyone have ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks guys.

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I take it this has never happened to anybody…
I've now done about 10k miles on the clutch so no problems with it really, but the issue is starting to annoy me to the point where I might have to strip it down and attempt to find out what's going on… Thought maybe I hadn't described the problem well enough, so took a short video of what is going on with the clutch cable -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znd8YbqTgs8

The cable adjuster is screwed all the way out. Screwing it in just increases the free travel on the pedal to the point where the clutch won't disengage.
Anyone?

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Is the bulkhead OK, it hasn't pulled thru?

Is it a genuine diesel with the clutch cable going around the back of the engine?

Were the rods that go thru the centre of the box the same between the two boxes?

Stick some washers under the adjuster at the gear box end to take up the slack?

Try a new cable?

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

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you should have 10mm of free play at the gearbox end when you lift the cable up, also make sure the clutch pedal stop hasnt fallen off. the clutch pedal should be level with the brake pedal at rest. i made my own stop with some angle bracket and bolts when i lost my stop which helped a lot.

ReleaseArm
TO Bearing

not sure how the above translates to a 4 speed box tho

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Make sure all the correct fittings are on the end of the clutch cable (gearbox end). There's a block of rubber and a couple of metal plates, and I'm sure a few other bits. If these aren't on you'll have issues adjusting the clutch as you describe.

                                

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There's a block of rubber and a couple of metal plates, and I'm sure a few other bits

all i have is the 2 metal plates, know where i can get this rubber part? sayint that i have tried spacing it out a bit with washers, which didnt work.

clutch pedal should be level with the brake pedal at rest

yep all the pedals sitting level

Is the bulkhead OK, it hasn't pulled thru?

Is it a genuine diesel with the clutch cable going around the back of the engine?

Were the rods that go thru the centre of the box the same between the two boxes?

Stick some washers under the adjuster at the gear box end to take up the slack?

Try a new cable?

bulkhead ok, has the repair plate fitted. It is a genuine diesel (it's actually a caddy  :redfaced: ) and the cable in just now is the same as was used for the previous box (i have tried a new cable but wasn't much different - the old cable however is a gen vw one and seems to fit better so stuck with it for now).

I'm no expert but I think the problem is with the box/clutch. I can't be 100% certain that the pushrod going through the box were exactly the same (one may have worn more?) but the boxes were both identical 4 speed..

I have a theory about the new clutch.. if i remember correctly the circular disc part (the bit that's held in with a large circlip that the rod pushes on) was slightly different on the new clutch kit (LUK). The centre of this disc on the old clutch had a small raised bit in the centre, which i think was free to turn, where the rod pushed on to. The new clutch didn't have this. I remember looking into it at the time and all i could find was that some clutch kits have this and some don't, and that it was apparently not a big deal. However i'm thinking that since the new clutch doesn''t have this raised part then there could be an extra 5/6mm of space that the pushrod is moving into before coming into contact with the clutch?? And due to lever effect this could be translated into the 3-4inches of free pedal travel at the box??

Sorry i know it might be hard to follow my description… i will try to get some pics. I'm hoping there is a simpler explanation :)

Thanks.

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might be worth swapping the pushrod over since its easily accessible, failing that yeah does sound like the clutch is to blame

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

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33 is "1 set: attachment parts for clutch cable" and is part number 171 798 105

Spacing it out with washers MUST have moved the biting point, maybe you didn't use enough washers and couldn't sense any difference, but thinking through how the mechanism works, it must have done…

                                

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My clutch pedal sits an inch or 2 higher than the brake pedal. I have ordered the rubber bump stop (part 20 above) and take it this goes on the pedal arm? Will this solve the problem or am I missing something else?
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