Mellow Yellow 3.2ltr 24v Conversion

Next was the accelerator pedal.

Not a big fan of the MK5 R32 floor mounted pedal but someone told me a mk7 Golf floating style pedal worked.

Bought a conversion bracket from a company in Canada but realised I should've made one my self as I had to modify it quite a bit to get it in the right position.

Absolutely perfect position now and more nature to use .

Lastly the exhaust was driving me crazy so thought enough was enough. It would return to a position that was too low and the section over the axle was too close.

The way to get round this was adjust the exhaust from the engine forward, support the section over the axle as high as possible.

I then cut the flange off at the silencer and changed the angle so it sits in a perfect position now.

Finally sound test and fuel system test. Passed with flying colours .

https://youtu.be/6beGkprR3Sw

 

Beautiful, work - great attention to detail, looks great  

I stumbled upon this thread trying to figure out how to do this conversion and my oh my what a read!
Well done, definitely a lot of educational content in here thanks!

My friend Rich is truly one of the best engineers and fabricator i’ve ever seen! His work is truly comparable with the best out there!
A true gent also as are his whole family!


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Absolutely awesome 👌 just read through the whole thread 👏

Don't suppose you could do a list of parts needed just gone through your all thread but not sure

I still pop into this every so often to see if there are any nuggets to glean

I should really think about fitting it now, but feel a mental  block stopping me doing it. I loved rebuilding the engine (had to do it twice as the workshop burned down with my full engine) but there's a few fiddly bits pss me off with the car, once I clear my head I'll get to it:





Anyone know where I can get Mk5 downpipe?

(Pic stolen from this thread)

Bit of an update as not been on in a while. Popped up to Stealth Racing last summer to get the car checked over by Vince and on the rolling road.

He noticed a few gremlins in the ecu map where it was ignoring my lambda sensors and corrected them. Car is better than ever and really pulls hard, well a lot harder than before.

In the process of rebuilding my gearbox and fitting a Quaife LSD. Will provide updates once I get it back in the car but a sneak preview.

bigw2069 said

I still pop into this every so often to see if there are any nuggets to glean I should really think about fitting it now, but feel a mental  block stopping me doing it. I loved rebuilding the engine (had to do it twice as the workshop burned down with my full engine) but there's a few fiddly bits pss me off with the car, once I clear my head I'll get to it:





Anyone know where I can get Mk5 downpipe?

(Pic stolen from this thread)

Eurowise or S & P automotive sell them but I believe you still need to weld the lamdba bungs on the left and right banks as techtonics tuning the manufacturer have not changed the design so there is correct fuel adaptation.

Mk1 24v Vr6 Downpipe – S&P Automotive


Not aware of any euro suppliers I'm afraid.

Shawy said

Don't suppose you could do a list of parts needed just gone through your all thread but not sure

So the fundamental parts:

Preferably a mk5 generation engine for the shallow sump as these engines run low on a mk1. A mk4 is fine but you will probably end up having to buy a mk5 sump and oil pump for a lot of  extra cash (£500) and cheaper to start off with the later engine.

Mk4 engine has the return based fuel rail but I run the mk5 returnless system so only one connection to the fuel rail. One less line to the engine and very simple to connect to a gti or carb tank. If you get a mk5 engine you can swap a mk4 return based fuel rail on to it, if you can find one!

You want the complete engine and both wiring looms, engine loom and branch loom (the same one's connected to the engine you purchase, many breakers won't include the interior side as it's a nightmare to remove from inside the car but it's imperative you get this from the donor vehicle). These need to match the engine as there are many variations between the loom pin configs which will cause you a wiring nightmare.

You need a suitable radiator, you could source a large generic radiator but I opted for a Eurowise one. S & P Automotive sell these as well.

You need a mount and driveshaft kit. Epytec in Europe provide these and available from many UK based shops. I think Mark sells them at classic vw. Otherwise Eurowise or S and P.

You need the loom converted by someone or yourself. RubJohny on the fourm can do this but has a long waiting list so get it booked in early. Otherwise a few specialist places on the web.

You need the immobiliser removed off the ecu. I got Vince to do this at stealth racing.

At least a 2.5" bore exhaust but saying that the miltek classic 2 1/4 worked well but on paper would be too small considering the stock R32 exhaust is 2 x 2.5" out.

A tune to remove the error messages on the ecu where it will look for various missing parts not needed in the conversion.

There are plenty more but these are the expensive parts.
 

Your an absolute star rich very inspirational cheers buddy 👍

Shawy said

Your an absolute star rich very inspirational cheers buddy 👍

No problem

Forgot the gearbox   .

You need a manual 02a gearbox from a Corrado VR6 or Golf VR6. Alternatively if you like a close ratio box you can use an 02j like mine which is from a V5 2.3 Golf. I changed my 5th gear for better motorway cruising.

You need a VR6 flywheel and clutch as well

Thanks for the parts list Rich, i got a audi a3 as a donor car. What i gather is the engine, loom and fuel pump that i need from the donor?

Forgot to ask, why not delete the O2 sensors from the ecu? As well as secondary air intake, to make it cleaner?

Ettiene Ets Beukes said

Thanks for the parts list Rich, i got a audi a3 as a donor car. What i gather is the engine, loom and fuel pump that i need from the donor?

Hi you need the engine with ancillaries (everything attached to it) and both wiring looms, one on the engine and one in the interior.

You don't need the fuel pump from the donor as its a canister type like modern vw's unless you intend to radically modify a stock tank and the rear bench. A 4 bar pump is only required. I believe a mk1 gti pump is fine but I have an aftermarket one.

Ettiene Ets Beukes said

Forgot to ask, why not delete the O2 sensors from the ecu? As well as secondary air intake, to make it cleaner?

re the lambda sensors there are 4, 2 per bank post cat and pre cat.

You code out the post cat lambdas and retain the pre cat one's so fuel adaptation is carried out correctly.

You can keep the SAI and fuel evaporation pipe work if you want but takes up more room.

Ettiene Ets Beukes said

Forgot to ask, why not delete the O2 sensors from the ecu? As well as secondary air intake, to make it cleaner?

I have deleted the post cat and SAI system.