Mellow Yellow 3.2ltr 24v Conversion

Just a small update.

After speaking with rubjonny it appears there have been some advances with support of the R32 and R36 in to a mk1.

I originally intended to run a Diesel alternator to provide the tachometer with a pulse through a dakota digital signal converter so that there was the correct 6 cylinder signal.

It appears that there are a few companies now that can get the RPM and VSS (vehicle speed sensor) information from the can bus of the ecu with a little box of tricks.. This means I can get an rpm signal to the stock mk1 cluster in the correct format plus as my engine is of the mk5 R32 generation it can take the vss and feed it back in to the ecu so that the soft limiter of 4000rpm is not introduced. Without this box I would need it coded out by a tuner.

Anyway this is what I have to do it: http://vdveer-engineering.nl/index.php/en/products/can-controller

So I bought a reconditioned stock alternator for the engine rather than the diesel one. The positive thing is the diesel alternator is only 90amp as the stock one is 140amp plus the ecu can control the new one from the dfm connection, negative is that it's much larger so have less clearance I also replaced a dodgy injector connector.




 

 OK lads and lasses making some progress now Started off by connecting up all the oil sensors and running the wires to the firewall. The 2 main low and high pressure switches are on a vdo dual sensor adapter in the stock sensor location and the aftermarket gauge sensors off the side oil outlet position. I had to run a remote oil line to the sensors as there wasn't enough room at the front.



Then the oil lines run and secured just need to space them off the chassis leg but found out i can't fit the oil cooler before the inlet manifold 


Then the real problem. Trying to get the inlet manifold in. It wouldn't go in without a bit of head scratching.

The injector loom bracket was the main concern so cable tied the loom to the fuel rail.



But then another problem, the injector connectors were fouling the inlet manifold and actually broke the retaining clip so have a connector to replace but not a problem.



Had to notch the radiator cowl to add some more space and worked a treat 

Got it in and looks sweet 

But forgot the bonnet latch and can't get it in with the radiator in place 

But I forgot the vacuum chamber for the variable inlet   Hummel did you manage to get the inlet manifold on with it attached to the bottom as I don't think I can slide it in 
 

It looks so nice that engine bay! :O

And it all has to go in, in a special order, there is only one way it all can be fitted

Yes my manifold goes on with the chamber attached to it (without the M6 bolt that holds it in place).

Good idea with the notch on top of the radiator, maybe i steal that

And the manifold looks good !

Cheers fella,

When you say attach without the M6 bolt how do you fasten it afterwards? Reach in and pray  I reckon there is another 5mm to be had by notching the front support here to make it super easy to install as I need to paint it black anyway.

The M6 bolt I mean is the one on the outside, next to the bolt for the dipstick, It is pretty easy to install afterwards , but annoying when installing the manifold.

Great stuff there Rich .  I wouldnt know where to start .  

Rich. said

Just a small update.

After speaking with rubjonny it appears there have been some advances with support of the R32 and R36 in to a mk1.

I originally intended to run a Diesel alternator to provide the tachometer with a pulse through a dakota digital signal converter so that there was the correct 6 cylinder signal.

It appears that there are a few companies now that can get the RPM and VSS (vehicle speed sensor) information from the can bus of the ecu with a little box of tricks.. This means I can get an rpm signal to the stock mk1 cluster in the correct format plus as my engine is of the mk5 R32 generation it can take the vss and feed it back in to the ecu so that the soft limiter of 4000rpm is not introduced. Without this box I would need it coded out by a tuner.

Anyway this is what I have to do it: http://vdveer-engineering.nl/index.php/en/products/can-controller

So I bought a reconditioned stock alternator for the engine rather than the diesel one. The positive thing is the diesel alternator is only 90amp as the stock one is 140amp plus the ecu can control the new one from the dfm connection, negative is that it's much larger so have less clearance I also replaced a dodgy injector connector.




 

Nice work man as always.
For the RPM signal and the VSS one I think I will use this box if it is correct for both signal.
It is S&P automotive who make it.

Bergie64 said

Nice work man as always.
For the RPM signal and the VSS one I think I will use this box if it is correct for both signal.
It is S&P automotive who make it.

Looking at the s and p page that does not have the capability to feed the VSS back in to the ECU I'm afraid via can bus.

If you have a Mk5 R32 engine it will go in to limp mode above 4000rpm without being coded out or using a device like I'm getting.

Rich. said

Bergie64 said

Nice work man as always.
For the RPM signal and the VSS one I think I will use this box if it is correct for both signal.
It is S&P automotive who make it.

Looking at the s and p page that does not have the capability to feed the VSS back in to the ECU I'm afraid via can bus.

If you have a Mk5 R32 engine it will go in to limp mode above 4000rpm without being coded out or using a device like I'm getting.

Rich, I'm using a BHE engine from an Audi TT mk1 2004.
I don't know if I need the VSS signal back to ECU.
I'm afraid to be in limp mode…
If you have any solution I'm aware about it.

Bergie64 said

 Rich, I'm using a BHE engine from an Audi TT mk1 2004. I don't know if I need the VSS signal back to ECU. I'm afraid to be in limp mode… If you have any solution I'm aware about it.

I think you should be ok  

More progress well in !!

Hi Rich,

Are you sure it will kump into limp mode without the speed signal ? I use the BUB engine and I have the speed signal fault (as the only one), but i don't think the engine is in limp mode.  

I know I have coded out alot of different sh''' from the ECU, but since the speed signal fault is still there I don't think that one have been coded out, but I could be wrong.

I'm using the s&p converter thinghy, and it works like a charm  

Hummel said

Hi Rich,

Are you sure it will kump into limp mode without the speed signal ? I use the BUB engine and I have the speed signal fault (as the only one), but i don't think the engine is in limp mode.  

I know I have coded out alot of different sh''' from the ECU, but since the speed signal fault is still there I don't think that one have been coded out, but I could be wrong.

I'm using the s&p converter thinghy, and it works like a charm  

I have read it on multiple forums that there is no vss input to ECU on a Mk5 ecu as handled by can bus on ABS module. Gives an implausible speed signal error that means the engine doesn't like to rev over 4000rpm. The box of tricks I bought injects the signal via canbus to the correct module and stops this from happening.

rubjonny is the oracle about this though.

So did you code out the other errors and was that via vcds?

Cheers

I assume mine is coded out, cause it ain't stopping until like 7000RPM :O

I tried my self but ended up with ALOT of help from a forum called nefmoto.

I pulled the file with MPPS, read it with tunerpro and got the checksum corrected from one of the guys on the forum. But thats was a HUGE deal to do yourself. I mainly did it to remove the IMMO but ended up with a fully re-mapped file I still need the car on the the dyno to get the most out of it, but it really goes like crazy..

Morning mate Hummel

How on earth did you managed to do the inlet manifold bolts up with everything in place?

Just doing it now :/

Well its in

But you have to strip half the stuff away!

So it took a whole morning to install 9 bolts on the inlet manifold. No wonder people have cut the front panel to lift the radiator out.

I had to remove the alternator and alternator bracket to access all the bolt holes.

Got a fresh bonnet opening latch as well 

Hummel I'm struggling to re fit the metal dipstick guide tube. Is there a special way. I probably have another 3-4mm before the bolt holes line up on the inlet.

 

Morning mate.

Your struggle with a bunch of stuff at the moment

the bolts for the manifold is a bit painfull, but not a whole morning painfull   I did it with everything in place (Stock altenator) and it should take like 30 min tops.

I assume it is the original allen key bolts right? took a 1/4"  rachet and expension. Mounted the bolt on the tool without rachet, from the top with my hand inserted the bolt in the manifold hole, then fitted the rachet in the expension from top, between manifold and radiator and thigten the bolt, fairly easy.

Oh, I did not fasten my radiator before the manifold is thighten, and I dont have the aircooled oilcooler as you, this alows me to push the radiator left and right to help with the bolt insert.

Hope this gave an idea? My english on tool is lacking a bit.

On the oil dipstick, I turned my stock oilcooler and changed hoses etc. Therefore i needed to bend my didstick a bit to clear the hoses, but I have plenty of room to insert the didstick from top, and then turn it to fit the bolt hole. 3-4mm seems sounds like you maybe pushing you O-ring? try with lube, or at least make sure the dipstick is in the middle of the o-ring.

Is the bonnet hatch OEM or china? and is it okay? I think I need one, this really make a huge difference.

Hummel said

Morning mate.

Your struggle with a bunch of stuff at the moment the bolts for the manifold is a bit painfull, but not a whole morning painfull  I did it with everything in place (Stock altenator) and it should take like 30 min tops.

I assume it is the original allen key bolts right? took a 1/4"  rachet and expension. Mounted the bolt on the tool without rachet, from the top with my hand inserted the bolt in the manifold hole, then fitted the rachet in the expension from top, between manifold and radiator and thigten the bolt, fairly easy.

Oh, I did not fasten my radiator before the manifold is thighten, and I dont have the aircooled oilcooler as you, this alows me to push the radiator left and right to help with the bolt insert.

Hope this gave an idea? My english on tool is lacking a bit.

On the oil dipstick, I turned my stock oilcooler and changed hoses etc. Therefore i needed to bend my didstick a bit to clear the hoses, but I have plenty of room to insert the didstick from top, and then turn it to fit the bolt hole. 3-4mm seems sounds like you maybe pushing you O-ring? try with lube, or at least make sure the dipstick is in the middle of the o-ring.

Is the bonnet hatch OEM or china? and is it okay? I think I need one, this really make a huge difference.

In the end that's what I did "Mounted the bolt on the tool without ratchet, from the top with my hand inserted the bolt in the manifold hole, then fitted the ratchet in the extension from top".

The alternator bracket gave me grief but that was self inflicted as I didn't use the stock bracket. Where does your alternator sit out of interest with the OEM bracktet?

The dipstick guide is a weird one. Should the O ring be placed in the block hole before the tube is pressed in? I had it on the tube and then pushed it in. The bulbous bit on the guide is not sat on the flat edge of the seat, that's a couple of mm's off. Thanks for the help chap 

bonnet latch is reproduction from classic vw. Fit's really well. I have my original one which is fine but needs to be re plated at some point and then I will switch it over.