Mellow Yellow 3.2ltr 24v Conversion

Mini update. Got the driveshafts de-rusted, left them a day with Bilt Hamber deox gel in cling film and it certainly has got rid of it. Just needs a bit of metal polish to remove the tarnish and will satin clear coat the ends making sure not to coat the mounting surfaces. I will paint the shafts black as well before re fitting.

These were brand new when I got them, my garage conversion really took it's toll on exposed metal parts. I have temporarily coated them in WD-40 to stop flash rusting.

That gel looks like it's worked a treat 👍.

Spudfingers said

That gel looks like it's worked a treat 👍.

Cheers chap, I would normally use Deox C which is a crystalline powder in hot water but don't have a container long enough and couldn't be bothered to do one end in a bucket and then rotate them and do the other end  

You have to be careful with Deox Gel because if it's left to dry is a pain to remove .

Thanks for the advise mate.  You're a mk1 owner… couldn't you just have stuck it in the bath, taken over the house and got shouted at like the rest of us?

Spudfingers said

Thanks for the advise mate.  You're a mk1 owner… couldn't you just have stuck it in the bath, taken over the house and got shouted at like the rest of us?

       Been there done that… from cooking parts in the oven and using the dishwasher for clean parts.  

mark1gls said

       Been there done that… from cooking parts in the oven and using the dishwasher for clean parts.  

Brilliant!!  I sprayed parts in the loft once because it was the only place I was allowed to do it… little did I know we had a wasps nest… there was me, safety specs on, masking stuff off… before the first a-hole with wings slammed its butt dagger into my forearm…my god it stung.  I then proceeded to run around the very hot loft tripping over boxes as more of the yellow and black stripped demons of Satan tried to use me as a human dart-board.  In my panicked and perspiring state, my safety goggles steamed up… (so much for "safety")…thus.. I could no longer find the loft hatch and proceeded to use my head as a sort of blind-man-feeling-stick. (not advisable as the rafters left bruises on my head and face!!).  Anyway, dazed, sore, bruised and alone.. I dragged myself back out of the loft hatch… my body and face was so lumpy and bumpy from wasp stings and "rafter bashing" you could have mistaken me for a giant NikNak!  Never again… sheds are a great investment.

Sorry to hijack the thread Rich 👍

Spudfingers said

mark1gls said

       Been there done that… from cooking parts in the oven and using the dishwasher for clean parts.  

Brilliant!!  I sprayed parts in the loft once because it was the only place I was allowed to do it… little did I know we had a wasps nest… there was me, safety specs on, masking stuff off… before the first a-hole with wings slammed its butt dagger into my forearm…my god it stung.  I then proceeded to run around the very hot loft tripping over boxes as more of the yellow and black stripped demons of Satan tried to use me as a human dart-board.  In my panicked and perspiring state, my safety goggles steamed up… (so much for "safety")…thus.. I could no longer find the loft hatch and proceeded to use my head as a sort of blind-man-feeling-stick. (not advisable as the rafters left bruises on my head and face!!).  Anyway, dazed, sore, bruised and alone.. I dragged myself back out of the loft hatch… my body and face was so lumpy and bumpy from wasp stings and "rafter bashing" you could have mistaken me for a giant NikNak!  Never again… sheds are a great investment.

Sorry to hijack the thread Rich 👍

There was that time that I soda blasted in the garden and forgot bicarbonate soda kills grass!

Was in the dog house after that, nothing grew for years!

Last night I got the driveshafts coated in satin clear which should keep future rust at bay.

Today fitted the driveshafts, exhaust manifold to exhaust, gear shifter and fuel line to fuel rail.

I replaced the non anti sway bar brackets and attempted to fit the sway bar but unfortunately it hits the manifold . Think that might be sold unless anyone has any ideas how I can work around it. At least the rear one will work.

What's the sway bar mate (apart from a really good pub name)?  Is it the gear linkage thing?

Spudfingers said

What's the sway bar mate (apart from a really good pub name)?  Is it the gear linkage thing?

Another name for anti roll bar

Gotta love the BiLtHaMbEr.  

Tonight got the heaters raging, I had an imperfection in the top panel which I wanted to sort so flatted and re coated and really pleased with the finish Have the inlet manifold ready to coat on Thursday.

I want to get everything ready for the weekend so can start thinking about connecting the loom and maybe a cheeky start up Finally does anyone know if this is the correct pop rivet for the VIN plate?  Size 3.2x8  part number N90437601?



 

Dont know the answer to the pot rivet question but good progress mate.  Keep ploughing on bud 👍

Gone for a close colour match to the original Audi colour. Not sure if I'm going to clear after the last mishap. What do you guys think?

Busy yesterday Got the radiator, oil cooler and engine loom in. Realised the oil cooler lines were not quite the right size but have bought some aeroequip lines to make a custom length. Also had to modify the oil cooler bracket again as didn't think about the chassis reinforcement bracket which made it wonky and touch the radiator but all sorted now.



Also re routed the vacuum feed for the secondary air intake as it's not required. The vacuum box for the variable intake has 2 solenoids. I have removed the one for the SAI and plumbed the one for the intake solely. Vacuum feed from the intake manifold and vacuum feed to the flapper.

I hope thats right as it's not documented and seems logical. Maybe Hummel will be able to help? Anyway like this:



Had 2 connectors I was unsure about but have reached out to the legend who is rubjonny  

Hi Mate,

The car is coming along nicely Mine is currently at the paint shop, after all the welding, the paint job is a bit more complicated than first though    anyway, alot of paint and alot of sanding and hopefully I will have a smooth bay like yours!  

regarding your vacuum, it looks like you did it the same way as i did it, so it should work perfectly  

Looks so good sitting in that bay mate.  Hard graft but its coming along!!

I spent ages writing a reply last night and lost it because of a session timeout so here goes again and I think a copy and paste in to Notepad is in order!

I have issues with the stainless oil cooler lines, they are not very flexible, the length is tight and the angle is not perfect for the connection to the cooler.



So bought some aeroquip hose which I can cut to length and it is a push fit connection that doesn't require any claps at the fitting ends.



My next issue is that the lower connection fouls the chassis leg and I really don't want to trim that to fit.



So bought a 90 degree hose fitting to correct the issue



Then rebuilt the inlet manifold for a test fit and can see what you mean Hummel about the injector bracket. How did you get round this?



Speaking to rubjonny to keep the stock cluster happy I have reinstated the high and low oil pressure sensors but also have a SPA Design dual gauge for oil pressure and oil temperature. This is a bit of a dilemma as there is not much room around the oil filter housing but at least there are 2 outlets on the mk5 housing. One at the front and the stock one on top so have bought vdo splitters to accommodate all the additional sensors.



Should get a bit more done today
 

Yes the plastic holder for cabling is in the way of the manifold, I manage to get the manifold on by bending the plastic a little, but this was done in trial fitment, I'm currently working on removing that plastic, or make up some smaller piece instead, also re-routing the cable for the knock sensor to free up the space.

the oil cooler seems to be a tight fit mate but good idea with the 90 degrees turn at first.

I decided to only use one oil press signal, why the need for two Rich ?

Hummel Are you using the stock series 1 MK1 cluster? I have a series 2 MK1 cluster and believe it requires both a low and high pressure sensor for the later cluster.

1 provides audible warning and other is led