Massbads GX - Up for sale again £2100

Hairyarse said

Nice original plates!

Yep, needs to be lower if sticking with the Sebrings

All steps in the right direction Chris, keep at it  

I wish I knew how to make it drive :-(

I'm a bit p****d off just now with it as i can't even drive it and I don't have the knowledge in how to fix it :-(

Hopefully I will get there !!

That sucks mate, hopefully it wont be long now

There no point in even starting the thing while the fuel system could be full of rust

Take the back seat out and take a look in the   tank

jellybelly said

There no point in even starting the thing while the fuel system could be full of rust

Take the back seat out and take a look in the   tank

I'm going to get the replacement neck etc from Mark as its totally rotten and I will remove the seat etc when I get a chance this week.
Then hopefully next weekend I will get some time to have a look in the tank and syphon the petrol out.

Looks like a good more door Chris.

Ah the joys of the filler neck, at least it is not kjet.

So when we bought Sharon's Sportline the same was true, the filler neck was rotten. The only saving grace of the later cabbys was the lift pump as that stopped the crap getting into the injection system.

If it was me I would get the axle off and tank out for a proper clean up. At the same time I would also replace all the brake lines in copper nickel and the hoses. I went a little further and put 256mm on the front with rear disks and 9" servo/master cylinder as that transforms the safety of the car.

Good luck on your journey of discovery with her, we all had to learn on something mate !!

Massbad69 said

jellybelly said

There no point in even starting the thing while the fuel system could be full of rust

Take the back seat out and take a look in the   tank

I'm going to get the replacement neck etc from Mark as its totally rotten and I will remove the seat etc when I get a chance this week.
Then hopefully next weekend I will get some time to have a look in the tank and syphon the petrol out.

Chris my man
save yoursel a lot of pain by not rushing into taking any bolts of with out using wd40 & freeze spray for a couple of weeks first, not joking but i sprayed my rear axel mouting bolts etc for about 3months most nights & they fell off when the time came to remove the axel, read to many threads on here of peops snapping them.
also put everything back together with a bit of copper grease
enjoy your sunday
cheers
baz

bazmk1 said

Massbad69 said

jellybelly said

There no point in even starting the thing while the fuel system could be full of rust

Take the back seat out and take a look in the   tank

I'm going to get the replacement neck etc from Mark as its totally rotten and I will remove the seat etc when I get a chance this week.
Then hopefully next weekend I will get some time to have a look in the tank and syphon the petrol out.

Chris my man
save yoursel a lot of pain by not rushing into taking any bolts of with out using wd40 & freeze spray for a couple of weeks first, not joking but i sprayed my rear axel mouting bolts etc for about 3months most nights & they fell off when the time came to remove the axel, read to many threads on here of peops snapping them.
also put everything back together with a bit of copper grease
enjoy your sunday
cheers
baz

Cheers Baz

I have already sprayed the fuel filler bolts etc and fuel tank bolts as well.

I will do so another few times before touching them.

It's going to take a while anyway so not expecting it on the road until next year.

Chris

Removed the battery, air intake system and replaced the headlight bulbs with Osram Nightbreakers.

The air filter was dirty and stinking of petrol but no time today as I'm away to see my Mum in her hospital.

Maybe one night this week I will clean up the air ducting a out.

Probably going to do a thermostat and coolant change as well as the fuel system.





Will I get the washer bottle clean ???









Should there not be hoses contested to these on the side ??? As there isn't on mine.

There should be hoses as they control the warm air flap, ie when cold air is drawn off the exhaust manifold to stop carb icing and then once warmed up the flap switches to draw cooler air.

You will get there Chris, keep the faith.

I know you like to use your normal guy, but could you google VW specialist or classic mechanics in the area, and see if someone would come out give it the once over, maybe play with carb etc and possibly getting it running better as a start to make you a little happier initially?

Link to my wee air line issue with all comments greatly received.

http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=big-block-carb-engines_2%2F1-5-carb-issues&keep_mobile=0

Is this the leakage that we are talking about ??

If the gasket needs replaced how the hell do you get the carb off and how do I get another same gasket ??

Massbad69 said

If the gasket needs replaced how the hell do you get the carb off and how do I get another same gasket ??

The carb is attached to the manifold by long bolts, you can see the head of one of them in that pic you posted above. You can't miss them. To unattach the carb for the purposes of changing the gasket that is all you need to do (if you wanted to remove it completely you would have to take off the fuel and coolant supply hoses too) so lift it a little and pull the old gasket from underneath. Of course if it is a bit of a sticky mess and won't come off you will have to do as I mention above to be able to lift it totally clear to scrape it away.

Hopefully it will come off in one piece, then the simplest way to get another one is to use it as a template and cut your own from a sheet of gasket card. Otherwise you might have to find a service kit for your carb, which will set you back about £40 which, if all you need is one gasket, is ludicrous. If, however, you are unsure of the state of your carb, a stribdown and rebuild with the new jets and diaphragms contained in the kit might not be such a bad idea, and might justify the £40 outlay.

Hope that helps.

The rubber gasket that goes on the very top of the carb and the airfilter box has seen better days, where do I get a new one ??

060129638 part no

campwitte said

Massbad69 said

If the gasket needs replaced how the hell do you get the carb off and how do I get another same gasket ??

The carb is attached to the manifold by long bolts, you can see the head of one of them in that pic you posted above. You can't miss them. To unattach the carb for the purposes of changing the gasket that is all you need to do (if you wanted to remove it completely you would have to take off the fuel and coolant supply hoses too) so lift it a little and pull the old gasket from underneath. Of course if it is a bit of a sticky mess and won't come off you will have to do as I mention above to be able to lift it totally clear to scrape it away.

Hopefully it will come off in one piece, then the simplest way to get another one is to use it as a template and cut your own from a sheet of gasket card. Otherwise you might have to find a service kit for your carb, which will set you back about £40 which, if all you need is one gasket, is ludicrous. If, however, you are unsure of the state of your carb, a stribdown and rebuild with the new jets and diaphragms contained in the kit might not be such a bad idea, and might justify the £40 outlay.

Hope that helps.

It's the 2 gold bolts right at the top ??

Thanks a lot for that.

I think a couple of more mechanically minded friends are popping round this weekend and they can give me advice on the service kit and poss leak.

Cheers

Massbad69 said

The rubber gasket that goes on the very top of the carb and the airfilter box has seen better days, where do I get a new one ??

060129638 part no

I don't think they're available anymore. You could fashion something out of some sort of cork, maybe, like the rocker cover gaskets on an old beetle. To be honest, I've long since binned mine and never had a problem, the airbox is a snug fit on the carb anyway, and the very small amount of unfiltered/unwarmed air that might leak in as a result won't make a very big difference.

Chris nice buy,but if you were only closer to me I would have sorted it out for you.

campwitte said

Massbad69 said

The rubber gasket that goes on the very top of the carb and the airfilter box has seen better days, where do I get a new one ??

060129638 part no

I don't think they're available anymore. You could fashion something out of some sort of cork, maybe, like the rocker cover gaskets on an old beetle. To be honest, I've long since binned mine and never had a problem, the airbox is a snug fit on the carb anyway, and the very small amount of unfiltered/unwarmed air that might leak in as a result won't make a very big difference.

No your right they are unavailable but if its fine without it then that's no probs.

Thanks

Massbad69 said

It's the 2 gold bolts right at the top ??

Cheers

Yea they are the ones, careful when you put them back, they only need nipping up to quite a low torque (not sure the actual figure), I've bottomed out and snapped one in the past and wouldn't want you to have to go through the same grief as I did getting it out!

Chris

Massbad69 said

No your right they are unavailable but if its fine without it then that's no probs.

Thanks

It was always my intention to find/make something suitable to replace it but since it ran just fine it ended up on that list of jobs you never quite get around to!

Chris