4dr Scrap car going full restore + 3,2 24V engine

Well mine is going to be a summercruiser for the whole family, two little kids and the wifey

Had my 4 year old son out in it when I did the mock up, and he thought it was a bit loud

Hopefully I can feel a difference with the ekstra kilos added.

I'm umming and ahing about the weight issue too. Trying to remember what was in there as standard. Maybe 20Kg? My current plan is down to about 35Kg.

I ran the engine with nothing in the car and the engine was the 3rd loudest thing after the fuel pump and the hissing vacuum tube I'd forgotten to reconnect to the rev counter  

Yup, loudest thing on mine is the damn in-line fuel pump haha

I don't here my fuelpump, maybe it is because it is in the tank But My exhaust was really  loud in the car as i rember it, so I focus alot of the sound proofing to the trunk

Time for an update:

alot of stuff have been assemble in the last week, actually not far from start up But not that good to remember the pictures..

Clutch reservoir mount, mounted on a pivot point so it will rotate out to fill up and rotate in when closed.



Also mounted dashboard together with all the wiring and also put in new foam on the airbox



Mounted the new light pulley and thighten with a new bolt. 100 Nm + 90 degrees :O that alot of force, so crafted a simple tool to lock the pulley in place It did the job but actually bended the tool a bit, so quite alot force was applied





Engine is in the car and the car is off the jig. sits perfectly. Sorting out the rest of the wiring at the moment, together with exhaust and manifold.



Oh and just a note for the future, When fitting the manifold there is very little space between it and the front cross bar. What I did:

1. remove front and rear engine mount.
2. remount bolt on the rear engine mount and thighten it without the rubber part between, pulling the engine down in the back.
3. This gives alot of room for the fitment of the manifold.  

 I think Rich. maybe could benefit from this ?  

That's coming together now 😃.

Looking great chap

Great tip about the manifold. Wish I had thought about that at the time lol

Time for an update for sure!

90% Done First run yesteday, awesome feeling, the Wavetrac diff seems to work really nice  

Still missing a few things though:
Rear hatch (Paint)
Windows in the doors, also paint issue…
Rear seat need to be re-fabricated to match front seat.
struggle with periodically turn indicatorlight stops "blinking" ?
Wheel alignment, I know this is like religion, but anyone could help me with a good setup for road with a lowered car ?


 but overall it is really coming together now. What do you think?  



I do have some question for you guys. Maybe you could help me out.

My cooling fan is almost running all the time, I know the weather is hot, but i'm concerned on if the engine is running to cold/ fan start to early, so if anybody know in what temperature the fans should kick in on a R32 ?? I have a thermo switch on the radiator controling the fan btw.

Another question is regarding ventilation in the rear doors. On the picture you see the two square holes, is these supposed to be just opened, or is there some rubber valves or something to put in ? compared to the door stop assemble where there is a gasket and complete enclosed plastic case for the arm,  to seal it. I could imagine these holes would generate alot of wind noise in the doors. ?



What about noise reduction in the doors, I filled in some squares on STP (two layers), would you guys fill the whole area, or leave it as i did?

Hi chap,

Looking ace.

On the R32 OC they say low speed comes on at 105c and high at 120c

I have a lower temperature thermostat so should be on pretty early and with this temperature at the moment for most of the time.

I hope that is helpful.

Cheers

Rich

Thanks Rich. I will try to monitor temperature in ECU and see when my fan kicks in…

I have one DTC though, and i'm not sure if it causing anything, it is the vehicle speed signal. What have you done with this  ?

thanks

Hi Tommy,

I had Toyotec (off clubgti) remove all of this including the vss sensor. I was told on a Mk5 engine if you didn't remove or get the VSS sensor it would put you in to limp mode above a certain rpm.

I have a can convertor from vd engineer ING which has the capability of getting vss but Toyotec removed all my codes and tuned the ECU for performance

Are you using the stock fan controller that came with the engine? I just have a thermostatic switch which triggers at 80c

Rich. said

Hi Tommy,

I had Toyotec (off clubgti) remove all of this including the vss sensor. I was told on a Mk5 engine if you didn't remove or get the VSS signal it would put you in to limp mode above a certain rpm.

I have a can convertor from vd engineer ING which has the capability of getting vss but Toyotec removed all my codes and tuned the ECU for performance

Are you using the stock fan controller that came with the engine? I just have a thermostatic switch which triggers at 80c

I need to remove the VSS alarm from the ECU then, I certainly don't want to be in Limb mode

Same as you mate, thermostatic switch in the radiator, but I don't know at what temperature it triggers…   but i think it is quite early…

Hummel said

I need to remove the VSS alarm from the ECU then, I certainly don't want to be in Limb mode

Same as you mate, thermostatic switch in the radiator, but I don't know at what temperature it triggers…   but i think it is quite early…

I'm really close to having the MOT now. Hopefully next week

Need to update my build thread. I have a canchecked mfd15 52mm gauge so I can monitor various engine sensors from the ECU via canbus.

Want to get it on the road before the wet weather sets in!

Sounds nice! I like the oldschool look of the original dash and no extra gauges in mine though

hopefully the warm weather will continue a few months and we will have plenty of road time

Hummel said

Sounds nice! I like the oldschool look of the original dash and no extra gauges in mine though

hopefully the warm weather will continue a few months and we will have plenty of road time

Ha, I prefer the gauges to the ash tray

Last trip in the car before Winter A Few pictures from the local forest.

Winter project on the car will be following:

- Get rid of Vibrations from the engine (Fear my brand new flywheel and clutch is the issue )

- Mount a Mk2 bias brake valve for the rear axel, my WILWOOD cannot adjust the pressure low enough, and the original one would be load sensitive.

- Adjust pedal positions. After I changed to topmounted gaspedal the alignment is off.

- Do something about my WAY TOO BIGdoor seal. Any ideas ? The doors is a nightmare to close if they are adjusted correctly.

- Fabricate a ISOfix bracket for the rear seat for the kids

- Put in a higher 5th gear, what should I aim for at end ratio?

Hummel said

Last trip in the car before Winter A Few pictures from the local forest.

Winter project on the car will be following:

- Get rid of Vibrations from the engine (Fear my brand new flywheel and clutch is the issue )

- Mount a Mk2 bias brake valve for the rear axel, my WILWOOD cannot adjust the pressure low enough, and the original one would be load sensitive.

- Adjust pedal positions. After I changed to topmounted gaspedal the alignment is off.

- Do something about my WAY TOO BIGdoor seal. Any ideas ? The doors is a nightmare to close if they are adjusted correctly.

- Fabricate a ISOfix bracket for the rear seat for the kids

- Put in a higher 5th gear, what should I aim for at end ratio?

Glad you got on the road and could use it.  

What kind of vibration are you getting. Is the entire chassis shaking?

How did you manage to fit a top mount pedal? I thought that the mk5 generation of engine was fussy about the pedal it was using.

What kind of rpm is your engine doing in 5th gear? I must admit I haven't got my car on the road yet but will be early spring. I can let you know what my diesel 5th gear is like.  

Hi Rich, is everything alright at your place ?

The vibrations is in the whole car, dashboard is rattling like crazy and i feel it in seats. They follow the rpm's of the engine and if I drive the car and push the clutch and let the car roll with engine a idle they disappear.

any good idea before i try to remove gearbox :O

the top pedal was easy, just need the right one Let me see if I can find the number, if you want it.

Now it rund 3000RPM at 110km/h. If i could get a 0.717 5th gear I would have 134 km/h at the RPM

Mk7 pedal. 5q1 723 503h

Hummel said

Mk7 pedal. 5q1 723 503h

Ah brilliant . Do I need the connector or will it just plugin and work?
 
Yeah good here thanks. Got my Caddy project keeping me busy at the moment so can't complain.

Are you using the eurowise mount bushings? I haven't noticed any untoward vibration from mine. I did on my g60 engine when I uprated the rear gearbox mounts. It was terrible, the car was vibrating and dash. In the end I changed it back to the stock rubber mounts.

I'm running the eurowise stage one bushings that came with the kit.

I run a standard vr6 flywheel and Sachs clutch and get a tiny bit of chatter but that comes from going sold flywheel rather than the stock dual type.