"TAG" - 1983 Campaign restoration blog

The inner wings were treated and painted in the same way.  I wanted it all painted before I refitted the wings.  

When the car goes to the paint shop I will get the whole lot topcoated/lacquered - but clearly some areas will be unreachable for him  - but this way I know that everywhere is treated/painted.

Finally refitted the wings and seam sealed them.

All looking rather better now than when I started!

Next step was to clean up the front valance/ front grille areas.

What I thought was a couple of rust bubbles son developed into rather more……….

Also the holes holding the lower spoiler were bad as well.

New metal sections formed and welded in.  All spoiler holes also repaired and re-drilled.

I also found that sections of the flange behind the grille were crusty and required repair.  

A trick I read about online, and that works very well I found is to use some old copper (I used some 15mm copper pipe flattened in a vice) - clamp that behind the area you are about to weld.  The copper draws the heat away to prevent blow-through and the weld will not attach to the copper.  Rather useful trick that was very useful in repairing the thin metal of the flange.

Finally time to remove the interior, dash etc.

Cleaned up the a-pillars and windscreen surround.  Sadly found a hole and a bad repair at the lower edge of the screen on both sides.  Cut out the grot/bad repair - new fiddly sections made and welded in.  Again I will the paint man to sort out the final sanding/filling.

And then the drivers's side more of the same.  The photo makes the final weld look worse than it really is!!  Now totally solid.

and a hold appeared close to the wiper spindle hole - now sorted.

Now to tackle the passenger door.  

Removing the main glass was easy but the front quarter light was a little more involved.

For those who have not done that job:

1.  Self tapper screw at the top of the glass support bar.




2.  Rivet to drill out on the support door - on the inner door panel near the interior door release hole.



3.  Rivet to drill out underneath the door.



Then pull the support bar at the top and towards the back of the door to free it from the quarterlight rubber.



Then after a bit of careful wriggling/persuasion (!) it will "JUST" come out the from the bottom of the door.  It is a surprisingly long item actually.

Door removed and cleaned up to reveal all its surprises.

The only really bad area, and it was pretty bad!, was the ventilation hole in the door.  Where due to the plastic rain sheet being badly fitted or condensation it was hard to tell.

So cut out the grot, made a pretty intricate and awkward shaped repair and welded in.  Finally added the holes for the ventilation flap.

Also had to repair the holes where the armrest is held by the plastic plugs.  Not surprisingly these holes has badly distorted over the years.  Again a rather tricky place to repair.

Now cleaning the inside of the door to check for any issues.  Thankfully it was in terrific shape - no problems at all down below…..

The front scuttle lip also need some repair work - especially by the VIN number.  Welded in new - will need to finish it off when the engine is out.

Also repaired where the previous Zender spoiler fitted.  S section of which was fitted into the top of the C-pillar.  Hard to make out in the pics I am afraid.

Bonnet off next…………….

Crusty in the usual places but no rot at all thankfully!

After a few hours with the wire brush it cleaned up well.  Then washed down with POR 15 degreaser, then POR 15 Metal Prep and finally Bilt Hamber.    I removed all the old sealant around the strengthening bars - it had lifted in areas and water had got behind.  I will reseal this more neatly prior to painting.