83 Gti set to get full resto

you need to check the crank journals with a micrometer to check that the crank's not worn or damaged due to oil starvation causing the shells to break up like they have.

Whats the history of the engine? its been stood a long time by the corrosion on the pump.

olethalb said

Maybe run low on oil or starved to the poxy oil strainer clogging problem


I was originally going to buy a 1956 ford f100 to rebuild and maybe build my own chassis but opted for another mk1

Anyway, keep up the good work bud  

Now you come to mention it, the oil strainer was bunged up a bit with black mastic that was used to seal the sump.

Glad you opted for another mk1, although the f100 would have been interesting as well

Yomp said

you need to check the crank journals with a micrometer to check that the crank's not worn or damaged due to oil starvation causing the shells to break up like they have.

Whats the history of the engine? its been stood a long time by the corrosion on the pump.

Micrometer is on tomorrows list, I'm off to Machine Mart in the morning to pick up some stuff.

With regards to history of the engine. I was lead to believe it was a low miler with 40K on the clock. The engine was dirty when I bought it and me being a novice didn't really know what to look for. It wasn't till I started stripping it that I started noticing things that didn't look right. There was odd, mismatched bolts all over the place, odd coil packs, 6sp tdi gearbox, the sump is from another car, I'm guessing to accept the tdi box…. the list goes on. I wouldn't expect any of this on a low mile engine.

What's the score if the crankshaft is damaged or worn? can it be repaired or is it a case of buying a new one?

Thanks
Andy.

Good job you stripped the engine Andy, because those shells are proper daffodil! Are they the big ends or mains? As yomp says get the crank measured as it will almost certainly be shot. So maybe regrind or new crank. Better to find these things out now than when the car is finished, onwards and upwards

If it's worn will probably be easier to replace, ve use white sealant to seal sumps and mast people refit with black as the vw stuff is dear.

If the sumps been changed it's possible the original one may have been damaged causing loss of oil and the shell problem you've got.

Olly

Jimievo said

because those shells are proper daffodil! 

How funny! I never referred to them as a flower
 :lol : good old swear filters!

Jimi, not sure what the difference is between big ends and mains lol, it's not the ones that are connected to the pistons, it's the other ones

Jimievo said

Jimievo said

because those shells are proper daffodil! 

How funny! I never referred to them as a flower
 :lol : good old swear filters!

Still knew what you meant flower   

Olly, where do I buy a new crank if this one is goosed?

I'll ask about for you bud, usually they go 100k with no problems so a good 2nd hand one shouldn't be hard to source.

Cheers man, much appreciated  

The Mains support the crank in the block. the big ends support the rods and pistons.

The mains have the under cut in them to transfer the pressured oil from the block through the crank itself out to the big ends.

Not sure about the 20V but I was lead to believe on the G60 crank is don't regrind it. Does your Haynes manual give undersize bearing tolerances or have information about regrinding?

If it were a genuine low miler it may have come out of a written off car that was still running whilst on its side for a short while. That would soon cause that sort of damage if no oil was getting to the bearings.

Sounds like the sealer in the oil pickup is the cause of the issue. Hopefully crank and all else is ok so it's an easy fix then

Yeah I think it could be the oil pick too. Guess I just need to measure everything before I can make any decisions.

Graham, I'll check my Haynes for undersize bearing tolerances etc tomorrow. I did see the car it came out of, it was on bricks in Hibbs lock up. didn't look like it had been in a crash, looked straight tbh.

Been measuring my crankshaft journals today and it seems some of the mains are out of round, some of them by 1/4 - 1/2mm, not sure if it's alot but they're certainly not round

I've checked in the Haynes and it seems the crank can be re-ground, so the bottom half of the engine will be sent off for reconditioning when monies permit. I still want to have a go at doing the head, so I can say I've done some engine work, can't be that hard

So at the minute, I've got a shell I can't do much with and and engine I can't do much with  I NEED SOMETHING TO DO  bored.com/zzzzz

Better to rebuild it now while its in as many bits. If it's too much work on the regrind maybe a 2nd crank would be better ta start with and possibly a cheaper option? 

0.25-0.5mm in precision engineering seems a lot, but not sure what it means on a crank, but don't think it's good   

Take it a refurb is expensive ( as all thinks mk1 are!)?

If you can't find anything to do for a while, come to york, I've endless things a man of your talent can do  

I think 0.5 under is possibly too much.
Is maximum undersize on your engine 0.75?
You'll be grinding straight to minimum size and if your journals are worn on opposite sides of the crank then technically you could be out by 1mm before grinding.
The grinder could check it but then you have to consider how much case hardening on the crank is left even if it is salvageable.
I would try and find another crank/engine.

This build is the dogs mate. All the metal work pictures will no doubt come in handy too

Been following this from the start - amazing work going into this mk1.

steveey said

This build is the dogs mate. All the metal work pictures will no doubt come in handy too

Thanks very much steveey, much appreciated

watson said

Been following this from the start - amazing work
going into this mk1.

Thanks watson, I'm hoping my engine rebuild turns out like yours!

Update time!!

It's been a while since my last update, mainly because I've been lazy  but this laziness has brought complacency, I thought I was done with doing body work stuff but it seems I was wrong, should have known better I now have limited time to get the car done as it's going to the paint shop on the 15th march  and I'm off on an Off Shore Survival course all next week and there's a fair bit to finish

First off I decided to re-do the fuel filler repair as I wasn't happy with it. The problem with the last repair is that when I did the arch tub repair all those months ago, I had to make the tub out of 2 different halfs. When I came to fit the tub, there was a small gap between the tub and the body of the car, so when I did the fuel filler repair, it shrank back and closed the gap leaving a depression which was quite noticeable.

My new repair still isn't perfect but I've filled the gap between the body and the tub with one of these discs that I had laser cut. I'll let the pics do the talking…

Disc


Weld thru primered everything and welded the disc to the back of the repair piece




It was tried in then taken out to be sealed


Tacked into position


It's now fully welded and there is a tiny bit that has warped but it's minimal.

Secondly, done a small repair to the tailgate hatch lip, for the perimeter seal.





did the old copper trick in a few places








All done



Also thought I'd remove the window from the tailgate for an inspection. Why I waited till now for this I do not know. Here's what I found lol





Chopped out all the rot, here's some of the pics, you'll get the idea!




I treated all the infected areas with rust converter and move on to the N/S door which is getting re-skinned. The reason I'm re-skinning the door is again more rot, I love eliminating rot/rust lol.

Grinding the edge off the door


The skin just peels away once you've gone round the edge with a grinder




Rot




Looks worse than it is, once I got the wire wheel on it, it wasn't to bad


All the edges are cleaned up like this now and are currently soaking in rust converter. All the edges of the door are held with spot welds, I thought the skin was glued on? this one certainly wasn't.

I'll be back down the unit after work again tomorrow to finish off the door.

The skin I removed from the door will be used foe repair pieces for the tailgate as I was struggling to get sheet metal thin enough for the job anyway

That's it for now peeps.

Andy

Nice work Andy. Hope you get it all sorted ready for the paint deadline.