DX to ABF conversion wiring

i normally add more length to the ecu connector so it can sit inside the scuttle

Ah I see. I have mounted my ECU horizontally under the TCI rather than vertically next to the TCI, so the cables from the back of the ECU connector exit straight through the bulkhead hole.
I'll post up a pic later as my work block pics. I guess i'll just have to have a fat section in the loom where the fold is. No problem.

I butchered my exhaust down pipe as well. I'll post a pic of that later too. Just need someone with some proper welding skills to finish it off   

Here is the ecu and tci mounted


And here is my exhaust.

Not pretty…

Had a good night on the loom. All done! Not going to wrap it until ive tested it, and i have some more questions about the immobiliser, but its late so ill save them for another day.

Thanks for your help so far rubjonny. Wouldn't have been able to do it without you…

Was laying awake think about wiring last night  cf_emoticons__BangHead:Immob & diagnostic loom:- I thought it was one loom, but it was 2 looms taped. Hope I got the right bits..

Immob box plug has a couple of earths spliced to a main earth with an eylet on. It has the black which i'll take to ingition live (A8 maybe, or C7?) It has the grey/white with jumper block that connects to ecu grey/white. It also has another grey with a small jumper block attached???

The diagnostic port has 4 wires. Red/white to perm live, brown to earth, then I have a grey wire and yellow wire going to a white connector?

Do I link all the greys together and connect to ecu grey/white? What happens to the yellow? Bin?


ECU relay. The live wire, pin 30, where is a good place to take this from? Is it ingnition live or perm live?


Are the Lambda probes different for the different 2.0 engines? Do you have a preffered supplier for Bosch? Best I have found so far is £56. Can get generic for £20, but no connector, which I don't have.

Many thanks
Huw

get yourself a diagnostics jumper block, this will allow the immob box and vaccom port to plug in as per factory no more splices. but yes you could splice the port and immob box wires together, bin the yellow

watch out for that hole in the scuttle lip just above the ecu! water will drip down thru that onto your ecu as I foudn out on my MK1 16v, a small deflector of some kind to route the water away might be a plan.

bosch universal LS03 lambda is what you want, it comes with a joiny block for the factory lambda plug. if you dont have one nip to scrappy and search on mk3 golf petrol they all have lambda probes, its just a case of find one with same plug as yours as you have early square and late roundy end type. 50odd quid is about what you should be paying, any less and it'll be a lump o rubbish as I found out when i bought a cheapy for our olf polo, lasted about a fortnight. bosch universal outlasted the car

Ahh, good tip about the hole. Will resolve that tonight.

I'll splice all the greys together and fit the ecu jumper to the end. I'm way past 'factory spec' now LOL

Thanks for the Lambda tip. That is my next purchase.

Any tips on where to take ecu relay power and immob. box power?
Are they ignition live or perm live.
Thanks

OK. Taken the ecu relay terminal 30 off one of the 7 connections on the fuse box (P) that are for "terminal 30 circuits"  

Wiring in car and fuse box all wired up. Only thing to sort is immob circuit, exhaust, inlet filter and I should be ready for a start  

I see there is a vac pipe from the TB to the air inlet. Is this necessary when using a cone type filter?

ignition live feeds d/2 or d/7, or G/2

both TB connections blank off

Ahh thanks. I would assume that the terminal 30 pins on the fuse box are ignition live?
I'll check out G2 and I have nothing in D2 and my D7 is all spliced in now.

My loom length actually looks ok now as I am going to route it along the LH inner wing and around the battery then across to the engine connector.. I was going to take it behind servo and follow heater pipes. Would have got hot and I would of had about 3ft of cable to 'lose'..

Thanks

no the P spades are permanent live, luckily terminal 30 on the relay actually needs a permanent live so you were right there

pin 86 on your relay is the ign live feed to switch on the relay, you need a coil live for this and the immobiliser unit. You can use D/2, D/7 or a spade to the G spade number 2 (the G spades are opposite side of fuse box to the P spades)

Thanks rubjonny. Finished up the wiring this afternoon ready for a start tomorrow  

Ok, so my start didn't go to plan. What with my wife finding me lots of chores to do and the fact that my exhaust welding being more 'sieve like' than an exhaust should be. Ordered some new exhaust parts and doing the job properly now…

However, I have been brave enough to crank it over on the starter which worked well. Spark plugs out so no load on engine. No nasty mechanical noises, so I don't think I left a spanner in there when closing up.

How long do you need to crank it to build up oil pressure? I have wired the oil pressure cables to match colour and switched the connectors on the switches. Do I need to swap the switches position? I wouldn't have thought so, but worth an ask..
I also have a centre consul oil pressure gauge. It's signal comes from D21, but it does nothing.
My dash oil pressure light stays flashing, but I am only cranking for about 5-10 seconds at a time..

With additional oil temp gauge, do i need to fit an extra sender to the engine? If so, where and which type?
Many thanks

switch positions make no odds, oil pressure depends really. did you ever have the sump off as oil pump may have lost its prime, if that happens can take a good while! you may want to take it off then fill it up with oil bung the pickup with vaseline and refit that will sort it

oil pressure gauge needs a separate sensor to work, D/21 is the high oil pressure switch warning wire so you cant tap into that either it'll mess it up or just not work. If you get a dual pole sender it will replace one of the factory switches (read the markings to know which!)

same goes for vdo oil temp you need a separate sensor as you cant tap dash and gauge into 1 sensor it will mess up the reading. luckily you have a spare oil tapping in the back of the head you can use

Yes. Engine has been fully rebuilt. All bearings have been coated with Redline Rebuild Lube, so i'll crank it for a bit longer without load. I expected it to come back up to pressure quicker. I bet vw just crank them from new…

That may be why I had oil pressure warning lights before the engine swap as the spur was from D21. I just replaced it without thinking. Will chop it out tonight.

Dual pole sender for pressure? Don't the current pressure senders just work like a digital switch (on or off) whereas the vdo is an analogue scale? I'll do some digging on tinternet..

Thanks rub
Huw

if you can make up some kind of rig to spin the intermediate shaft with a drill that'll help i recon

yes the pressure switches are just open or closed, you need variable resistance pressure sender for a gauge. the dual pole ones have both in see so you can replace one of the switches with it. single pole ones only do a gauge so you'll need a T piece to fit both or loose the mfa oil temp sensor

Balls of steel!     Just cranked it until it pressurised.

Didn't realise the switches could have both systems in. Nice one.

Hopefully getting my exhaust welded tomorrow so should be ready for a start.

Thanks

on our old polo I was doing a head swap and left the sump drained a bit too long, with the head off. so I filled it back up with a funnel in the oil return hole and cranked it till oil spooged out of the oil feed galleries

cranked over much faster with no head on

LOL
Exhaust done & fitted, so tried a start.
She fires, but then dies immediately. I can't get my VCDS lite to communicate either which is annoying. However, I'm thinking immobaliser? Question is how do I prove/diagnose this?
Also, I've read some stuff about the ISV. When I turn my ignition on it makes a buzzing noise. Should it do this?
I'm using a mk3 traditional coil rather than the mk3 one.
Time for some searching.
Thanks

Been through immob wiring tonight and changed reader coil. Still no change.    Would like to get immob defeated as already have cat 1 on car.