9" servo conversion question????
Posted
Local Hero
9" servo conversion question????
yeap the 90 spec servo is different the convertion only works with the 22mm master and servo that was fitted to the 90 on 16v, one off an e reg is the same as the mk1 i.e. uses 20 mm master. we had loads of problems with this too so don't give up!! :y:
Regards Volkswarren
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
Posted
Settling In
THanks mate, you've been a huge help.
I'll try source one ( don't think the car will make it on Friday
Can the master cylinder stay the same, or do i need both the servo AND M/C?
Cheers, I owe you a pint!
J
I'll try source one ( don't think the car will make it on Friday
Can the master cylinder stay the same, or do i need both the servo AND M/C?
Cheers, I owe you a pint!
J
Posted
Local Hero
it sounds like the right m/c but a new 22mm one from gsf or eurocarparts is only around ?25 and it has 4 outlets so u can fit the pipes as they were ment to go.
Regards Volkswarren
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settled In
and don't buy a cheap master cylinder, always buy the better quality option :wink:
Posted
Settled In
has anyone got any piccys of the brake pipe set up in the engine bay after the conversion has been completed plus an explination of exactly what to do would be nice ops: .
perhaps before and after piccys?????
this is all i need to crack on with mine.
ta
John
perhaps before and after piccys?????
this is all i need to crack on with mine.
ta
John
1983 mk1 gti 2.0l 2e powered
newman cam
ported, polished, big valve 1.8 head
audi throttle body
SWWWWEEEEEETTTTTTTT
newman cam
ported, polished, big valve 1.8 head
audi throttle body
SWWWWEEEEEETTTTTTTT
Posted
Settled In
Anybody know the thread size of the unions that go into the m/c? I'm assuming they are standard pipe thread fittings but unsure
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settled In
chudd said
Yep metric standard ……….
Cool, thanks mate
Posted
Settling In
What are the two electrical connections on the mk1 master cyl? I know one is a brake light switch, but what is the second one? :dontknow:
I have pics of two mk1 16v`s with this conversion and they both have only one electrical connection to the master cyl.
I have a 4 port 22mm master cyl and 9" servo from the mk2 16v. There are 5 connections to the original m/c, 3 hydraulic (one with a T in) and two electrical.
I am planning to use a single port for each front, a single port Tee`d for the rears and a single port Tee`d for the electrical connections. Or use a single port for each rear with a tee ineach for each electrical connection.
Would this be a satisfactory way of doing this? Or is there a simpler/ better way? :?
Cheers
I have pics of two mk1 16v`s with this conversion and they both have only one electrical connection to the master cyl.
I have a 4 port 22mm master cyl and 9" servo from the mk2 16v. There are 5 connections to the original m/c, 3 hydraulic (one with a T in) and two electrical.
I am planning to use a single port for each front, a single port Tee`d for the rears and a single port Tee`d for the electrical connections. Or use a single port for each rear with a tee ineach for each electrical connection.
Would this be a satisfactory way of doing this? Or is there a simpler/ better way? :?
Cheers
F#$k them New Model Cars We Ridin Old School
Posted
Local Hero
The 2 electrical connections are for the hydraulic brake light switches. Some people have used a Scirocco pedal bracket style brake light and then used the 4 ports of the master cylinder to each wheels, thus eliminating the need to use T pieces to fit the original switch.
I had a 2 port 16V master cylinder, so I needed to use T pieces anyway. So I used the original T piece and 2 more to achieve 5 connections, one for each wheel and one for the brake light:
It is important to make the connections right, so that the front of the new master cylinder feeds the front right and rear left wheel; and the other one feeds the front left and rear right wheel. This preserves the safety benefit of having dual-circuit brakes.
I had a 2 port 16V master cylinder, so I needed to use T pieces anyway. So I used the original T piece and 2 more to achieve 5 connections, one for each wheel and one for the brake light:
It is important to make the connections right, so that the front of the new master cylinder feeds the front right and rear left wheel; and the other one feeds the front left and rear right wheel. This preserves the safety benefit of having dual-circuit brakes.
Posted
Settling In
Nice one Paul!! Is it necessary to kep both switches?
F#$k them New Model Cars We Ridin Old School
Posted
Old Timer
i thought the switchs ran in parrelell anyway? (ie no) but worth checking that. Even better, loose both the hydaulic switchs and wack a switch on the pedal box as Paul said … :y:
Mk1 Golf 16V Conversion FAQ Zip, now located at in the Forum WIKI section: http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=cedi&type=misc&id=42%2F26%2F3
Posted
Settled In
Just use one froma Scirocco then, I was wondering what car to get this from?
Posted
Settling In
Cool I have one of those.............. A scirocco I mean. Easily done?
F#$k them New Model Cars We Ridin Old School
Posted
Settling In
Think when you do the scirocco coloum switch you have to cahnge the lot so quite an envolved job.
Couldn't be bothered with this so I took the pedal switch off a my 94 passat, and fitted to some angle steel and bolted it to the pedal assembly.
They have a captive nut in just the right place, think it's for cedal switch assembly for scirocco, or someone told me ages ago a very early form of cruise control??? Or maybe the were taking piss out of me?
Couldn't be bothered with this so I took the pedal switch off a my 94 passat, and fitted to some angle steel and bolted it to the pedal assembly.
They have a captive nut in just the right place, think it's for cedal switch assembly for scirocco, or someone told me ages ago a very early form of cruise control??? Or maybe the were taking piss out of me?
teammonkey
Posted
Settling In
Cool I have one of those for parts tooo............. a 94 passat. Or would it be just as easy to eliminate one of the brakelight switches, using only one and just Tee it into one of the lines?
F#$k them New Model Cars We Ridin Old School
Posted
Local Hero
g1 said
Cool I have one of those for parts tooo…………. a 94 passat. Or would it be just as easy to eliminate one of the brakelight switches, using only one and just Tee it into one of the lines?
That's what I did. You need to fit at least one more T piece anyway, why not just fit another while you're redoing all the plumbing?
Posted
Settling In
Yeah, I think your prob right, I should just do it instead of keeping on asking Q`s. ops: If I find a way of improving it later I can always alter it.
F#$k them New Model Cars We Ridin Old School
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