1.8T Conversion Guide
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1.8T Conversion Guide
Cheers i'll have another look at the mount tomorrow.
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Local Hero
the engine should sit at 15 degrees what cambelt end mount do you have?
the qpeng downpipe will miss the cv but be very close to the steering uj
as for the tensioner how is the 20vt valve one being used? as the damper gets in the way of the mount i know as i tried it but would like to see a picture proving me wrong lol
the cambelt cover will need to be trimmed to miss the mount and yes they are tight to get on lol
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Do you have pic/diagram of how it bolts onto the starter?
Im using mounts from crazyquiff.
The downpipe is in the way of the cv, theres no 2 ways about it. Its not that close to the steering uj.
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Local Hero
the mk1 gti front mount was held on by the two long starter motor bolts the mount sits the block side and should have a captive nut in the top hole any pictures of your mounts
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bens_cab said
you might find once the front mount is on it will pull the engine forward enough to clear it
I did try mentioning this earlier, once the positon of your front mount is sorted, the postion of your engine will change hopefully resolving your CV issue and the manifold clearance.
Here is an Brad Moles ABF setup but i think same mounts as the 1.8T
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
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Local Hero
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Design Manager
GaryGTi83 said
Joe90k said
Sorry forgot to add two more things…
One the 16V tensioner is not needed, buy yourself some M18 shakeproof stainless washers and save some pennies as the 20Vt tensioner is fine it just needs fixing in place, a couple of people have done this and it saves a lot of hassle! Then the belt will run true not off to one side. It is less of a bodge than 8mm worth of washers, you can also leave the aluminium bit on the back to tension the belt by hand and as you tighten the bolt it will tension the cambelt further as the shake proof washer bites into the tensioner.
and number two! MODS THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY!!!
Hi Joe, Can you attach any pictures of the setup you have. I have found the 16v tensioner doesnt fit too well, and would prefere to stick with the factory one if its possible
You can see in that pic, that was a temporary tester idea, I just used a normal washer which I wedged into the top of the bolt and tightened to see if it would lock the tensioner which it did. I then ordered THESE which were an exact fit and stopped the tensioner moving at all. I left the alloy arm on the back of it so that I could tension it by hand as much as possible and as the bolt was tightened it bit into the tensioner and turned it even more making it tighter.
I hope that makes sense? If anyone wants to buy a washer I will do them cheap as you only need one, I have 9, just PM me. I had a lot of trouble finding them anywhere except eBay!
As for using the original pneumatic part, I didn't it was removed. I am sure this is a much better way of doing it as the belt runs true, the tensioner is well and truly locked, and there isn't 8mm worth of washers on the cambelt end of the engine.
HTH
Joe
2018 Up! GTi 1.0 TSI
2015 Mk7 Golf R 2.0 TSI 4motion DSG
2011 Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6 TDi
1982 Mk1 Golf GTi 3 Door 1.8t - Build Thread
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Design Manager
I am having a bit of trouble with the mounts, you say there are 4 mounts, I have ordered three from CQ which are the cambelt end, gearbox end and one solid mount, but I thought this went on the back of the engine underneath??? Obviously I was wrong and this goes on the front on the starter motor as you said before, but then what goes on the underneath at the back??
2018 Up! GTi 1.0 TSI
2015 Mk7 Golf R 2.0 TSI 4motion DSG
2011 Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6 TDi
1982 Mk1 Golf GTi 3 Door 1.8t - Build Thread
Posted
Local Hero
the 02a/j ones are very different on the gearbox end im guessing the rear one will just be the bracket for the gearbox which will marry up to the original mount
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