Engine swap 1.8carb - 1.8K-jet

jakethepeg007 said

The injector seats will unscrew once you take the injectors out, you'll be able to match a blind plug to them and replace once they are out.
Injectors will pop out with a big screwdriver. Be fairly gentle with the removal of the seat as you don't want to break it and drop parts into the combustion chamber

been down that road LOL

UPDATE!!

After talking to some people ive found out that its impossible to use my old carb n intake on the new engine because of not enough fuel and no water inlet on the new engine?? Ive given up. So now im going k-jet! If i order a new fuel tank for Injection, what type of pump do i need to put down in it? Could someone point me in the right direction? 😎

Why don't you look into some of the more modern upgrades, such as independent throttle bodies or using some bike carbs, your likely to get some more power as well as less headaches from trying to find all the parts to make the old stuff work

jakethepeg007 said

Why don't you look into some of the more modern upgrades, such as independent throttle bodies or using some bike carbs, your likely to get some more power as well as less headaches from trying to find all the parts to make the old stuff work

I have tried, , but i cant find any guides at all. I have been seraching for days looking for where i can buy a new inlet to fit a carb, but cant even find that… i dont understand where you guys buy the necceserry parts to do these things. 

https://danstengineering.co.uk/Bike-Throttle-Body-Kits-Volkswagen

https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-body-kits/vw

https://www.boggbros.com/ Manufacture of manifold to suit motorcycle carbs

Or just look into Webber 40 / 45 twin carbs 

you have a carb and manifold at hand blank the injector
holes get it running worry about upgrades later

if you are going k jet need to source engine wiring harness, fuel lines need adapting while engine is out
need two 8mm lines running to the left inner wing
you need to weld the air box mounting bracket to the battery tray there is a starting point for you
if you are going with in tank pump you will need a gti rear wiring harness with extra wires for internal and external pumps fuel accumulator swirl pot including fuel pipes i can help with most of the rear parts you will need

My car is LHD but yeah I'll second what all the nay-sayers have said about the K-Jet! I have litteraly just ripped out all my k-jet system and swapped to DCOE twin webber 45s. im still dialing it in right now so few minor tweeks to do. But I Ripped out everything from the K-jet, 2nd fuel pump, all the lines to and from engine bay and run new hose. The DCOE (sidedraft) carb setup is somewhat complicated too though, (getting right jets, carb balancing, fuel pressure etc) and its super tight up against the bulkhead with the counter flow head (my 62mm trumpets "JUST" fit in there but its super tight. Im gonna down those to 30mm i think. also getting the air flow meter in there to setup the carbs isnt easy either. But on the positive side……….i prefer it to the K-jet and it sounds super cool and looks badass! I also have headers which adds to my issues because it makes it even tighter with the inlet manifold to head connection for the carbs. Overall i would still do it again but i would change to 2.0L ABA with crossflow head.

But the central flat top carb setup that feeds all 4 cylinders is probably an easier way to go that the twin DCOEs and easier that K-Jet i would think. I have never done that but access to carb and in and around the inlet manifold / exhaust area on the counterflow head is probably a LOT better than mine with headers, and twin DCOE 45s. 

Shubbs said

My car is LHD but yeah I'll second what all the nay-sayers have said about the K-Jet! I have litteraly just ripped out all my k-jet system and swapped to DCOE twin webber 45s. im still dialing it in right now so few minor tweeks to do. But I Ripped out everything from the K-jet, 2nd fuel pump, all the lines to and from engine bay and run new hose. The DCOE (sidedraft) carb setup is somewhat complicated too though, (getting right jets, carb balancing, fuel pressure etc) and its super tight up against the bulkhead with the counter flow head (my 62mm trumpets "JUST" fit in there but its super tight. Im gonna down those to 30mm i think. also getting the air flow meter in there to setup the carbs isnt easy either. But on the positive side……….i prefer it to the K-jet and it sounds super cool and looks badass! I also have headers which adds to my issues because it makes it even tighter with the inlet manifold to head connection for the carbs. Overall i would still do it again but i would change to 2.0L ABA with crossflow head.

But the central flat top carb setup that feeds all 4 cylinders is probably an easier way to go that the twin DCOEs and easier that K-Jet i would think. I have never done that but access to carb and in and around the inlet manifold / exhaust area on the counterflow head is probably a LOT better than mine with headers, and twin DCOE 45s. 

Those webers looks so nice!  What headers do you have? I ordered a new stainless downpipe from ebay the other day, looking forward to getting it.

Ive decided to go for carbs,  removing all the k-jet like you said. jake linked some choices and i think im going to order this kit https://danstengineering.co.uk/Bike-Throttle-Body-Kits-Volkswagen/VW-18-EX-DX-and-PB-Golf-Bike-Throttle-Bodies-Kit-ZX10R-44mm-STARTER-PACK

I hope this fit my engine (JH) this kit was whitout ECU, and im
Pretty sure i dont need that, or do i? 

Ive ordered some plugs to block out the injectors, so im gonna starting cleaning up the engine bay and gearbox, so everything wil be ready when the kit comes! Thanks for all the feedback, i really appriciate it

yeah i like the webbers and they have an awesome sound!! Love em!

as for the headers i also bought mine on ebay. They were fairly cheap so no complaints. I ended up wrapping mine, i much prefer the open….. non wrapped look but they are way too close to my drive shaft rubber cv joint cover and also the steering rack. Theres another good post online here somewhere think it might have been one of pacemans posts on the headers but also got some info from Briano1234 about the heat shield etc. Anyway after that discussion I ended up wrapping the cv joint with heat shield material and same for my steering rack as well as putting in the slightly modified original heat shield from my old downpipe. i got brand new steering rack and drive shafts/boots etc so didn't want to melt any of those. Photo of my headers below, and a good point to note is they were flanged at the midpipe section, i converted mine to slip-fit to marry up with my techtonics tuning midpipe and borla exhaust system. Before you install your headers make sure they fit with your carbs. Sounds stupid i know but keep reading……..

As for the carbs, i dont like the look of the bike carbs but i know few folks that run them. Not my cup of tea like i said. Had a quick read of the link you provided…..seems like they have injectors?????? Do you need a fuel injection system for those???? Defo want to ask someone who has already installed those what is required from your fueld system, if it has injectors you may need the higher pressure fuel pump and accumualtor etc.

Also, what you should be concerned about is space between your head and the bulkhead, bike carbs or webbers or whatever you get…….if your engine is JH (mine is JH also) and it looks like you have a counterflow head (exhaust and inlet manifolds are on same side, the side nearest the bulkhead) so with that being said you will be super tight in there with ANY carbs unless its the top down carb style not side draft style. Not to mention double check whatever inlet manifold you get because inlet manifold, header and carb install up against that bulkhead is a total PAIN, no room to get wrenches or sockets in there!!!! So be prepared to get angry drop your tools a hundred times end up making some small wrenches to get in there and probably need a swivel socket head, also be prepared to have to re-work stuff to shoe horn them in. I pulled my drive shaft, and front sway bar to install the headers then installed the headers and re-installed the drive shaft and sway bar. next moved on to the carbs, i installed them on the inlet manifold and put the manifold on the car……….heres the bad part……..there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY to access the inlet manifold bolts due to the V shape to mount the webbers on the manifold. So my inlet manifold bolts were now useless……I ended up getting studs and threaded those into the head and mounted the manifold back up…… you can finger tighten the nuts but no way to get a wrench or socket in there. So, at this stage im getting miffed……. pulled the carbs off the inlet manifold and try to install that without the carbs on it…….. NOPE, not happening because the headers are in the way……..so ends up pulling drive shaft and sway bar back off……pull the headers back off and have to install the inlet manifold FIRST (no carbs installed) then install the headers then install the carbs on the inlet manifold last! Point being test fit all your stuff and make sure it fits with the other "modified" stuff you are doing. On the bike carbs make sure you have access to your headers, inlet manifold and also if your bike carbs will fit between the head and the bulkhead. Most of the bike carbs i have seen have been installed on Crossflow heads (inlet manifold is on the radiator side) not the rear, bulkhead side so check how much room you have available.

Also the below is carb related info i have come across or whatever. For info purposes………may or may not be pertinent for you and the bike carbs.

I ripped out the K-Jet high pressure fuel pump, 120psi, and both fuel lines supply and return dont need them as converting to deadhead and all new kit. My carbs need about 3psi. Some folks leave existing K-Jet fuel pump and regulate down from the 120psi to the 3psi which in my mind is just stupid but that way you can use existing pump and setup so i guess it kind of has its sell points. Just not my bag. Also figure out whether you are going to run a deadhead carbs system or a return type system. Think the return is slightly better for maintaining the correct fuel pressure etc and has some advantages. Not for me, im running a dead head system, single fuel line to my carbs.

1. i got low pressure webber (redline) fuel pump and two filters at the rear of the car. One pre-pump and one post pump. I have single fuel hose to engine bay and have fuel shut off valve and a third filter in the bay……more for visually seeing that i have fuel there not so much for the filtering.

2. Carbs like regulated pressure. get a good fuel pressure regulator. i have a malpassi deadhead regulator regulated to 3psi and also get a decent fuel gauge so you know what fuel pressure you are running. If you are running a return system you will need a regulator that supports that.

My car runs ok but i get the feeling that the fuel pressure / accumulation is not 100% dialed in. So right now i think i need a check valve after my pump to maintain pressure in the line when the car is shut off. pretty sure i'm getting drain back to the pump when switched off as the visual fuel filter is full when car running and half empty when car is off. Could also be that my regulator is mounted too close to the carbs and there isn't enough fuel accumulation after the regulator so I may end up adding small fuel accumulator or moving my regulator, not sure yet will see how she runs for the time being.

As for the K-Jet ECU i dont know what you need for the bike carbs if they have injectors you might need it……i dont know…..you should check that out with someone who has already installed those for sure. As for me….. i ripped my ECU out, as i dont need it for running the twin webber 45s.

Bye bye k-Jet


one other tidbit……….check out the available inlet manifolds………you can also get a inlet manifold to run a single webber DCOE sidedraft carb to all 4 cylinders. You can also get a manifold to run one topdraft webber to all 4 cylinders. slightly cheaper option (only need one carb) and super simple also. ebay has ton of webbers, also (other brands etc). mine were nasty looking when i got them…….pulled mud dobbers out from inside them. but they cleaned up good and only cost $400. had to get new jets but second hand webbers are not really a problem as long as you have time and some patience to clean them up and get the right jets. Few good videos on youtube for the webber setup and cleaning etc. You might save yourself a ton of cash gettgin second hand webbers. just price in the cost for new gaskets and stuff though. Total cost for my webber setup, new jets, gaskets and manifold was prob somewhere in region of $750 USD but obviously some time invested in cleaning old parts etc. Don't know what the bike carbs sound like but the webbers have a sweet sweet buuuuuurrrrrrppppp sounds when you stomp on it! You will Smile from ear to ear!! i would defo get webbers again. 

Paceman…….just read your post on the K-jet on page one of this……… i think K-jet compression ratio is 8.5:1………not 10:1 The only reason i "think" i know that is i over-bored mine by 1mm because the bores were scored and I upped the compression. I now have TT 10:1 compression piston heads running on the twin webber 45s. My K-jet piston heads were previously 8.5:1 comp ratio. 

The DX GTI engines were 10:1 CR hence the requirement for 4star/97+ RON petrol

Shubbs said

Paceman…….just read your post on the K-jet on page one of this……… i think K-jet compression ratio is 8.5:1………not 10:1 The only reason i "think" i know that is i over-bored mine by 1mm because the bores were scored and I upped the compression. I now have TT 10:1 compression piston heads running on the twin webber 45s. My K-jet piston heads were previously 8.5:1 comp ratio. 

i agree 10:1

Engine type - Number of cylinders :   Inline 4
Engine Code :   DX
Fuel type :   Petrol
Fuel System :   Bosch K-Jetronic
Engine Alignment :   Transverse
Engine size - Displacement - Engine capacity :   1781 cm3 / 108.7 cu-in
Bore x Stroke :   81.0 x 86.0 mm
3.19 x 3.39 inches
Number of valves :   8 Valves
Aspiration :   N/A
Compression Ratio :   10.0
Maximum power - Output - Horsepower :   110 HP / 112 PS / 82 kW
@ 5800 rpm
Maximum torque :   112 lb-ft / 153 Nm
@ 3500 rpm
Drive wheels - Traction - Drivetrain :   FWD

Shubbs said

Paceman…….just read your post on the K-jet on page one of this……… i think K-jet compression ratio is 8.5:1………not 10:1 The only reason i "think" i know that is i over-bored mine by 1mm because the bores were scored and I upped the compression. I now have TT 10:1 compression piston heads running on the twin webber 45s. My K-jet piston heads were previously 8.5:1 comp ratio. 

I feel vindicated by the responses

Well that's interesting……I'm going to have to pull my old pistons out of the box and see what's going on there. Also I See all you guys specifically mentioned the DX engine code…….but he's got a JH…..and mine is also a JH ….Any difference there?

jh is 8.5:1

Shubbs said

yeah i like the webbers and they have an awesome sound!! Love em!

as for the headers i also bought mine on ebay. They were fairly cheap so no complaints. I ended up wrapping mine, i much prefer the open….. non wrapped look but they are way too close to my drive shaft rubber cv joint cover and also the steering rack. Theres another good post online here somewhere think it might have been one of pacemans posts on the headers but also got some info from Briano1234 about the heat shield etc. Anyway after that discussion I ended up wrapping the cv joint with heat shield material and same for my steering rack as well as putting in the slightly modified original heat shield from my old downpipe. i got brand new steering rack and drive shafts/boots etc so didn't want to melt any of those. Photo of my headers below, and a good point to note is they were flanged at the midpipe section, i converted mine to slip-fit to marry up with my techtonics tuning midpipe and borla exhaust system. Before you install your headers make sure they fit with your carbs. Sounds stupid i know but keep reading……..

As for the carbs, i dont like the look of the bike carbs but i know few folks that run them. Not my cup of tea like i said. Had a quick read of the link you provided…..seems like they have injectors?????? Do you need a fuel injection system for those???? Defo want to ask someone who has already installed those what is required from your fueld system, if it has injectors you may need the higher pressure fuel pump and accumualtor etc.

Also, what you should be concerned about is space between your head and the bulkhead, bike carbs or webbers or whatever you get…….if your engine is JH (mine is JH also) and it looks like you have a counterflow head (exhaust and inlet manifolds are on same side, the side nearest the bulkhead) so with that being said you will be super tight in there with ANY carbs unless its the top down carb style not side draft style. Not to mention double check whatever inlet manifold you get because inlet manifold, header and carb install up against that bulkhead is a total PAIN, no room to get wrenches or sockets in there!!!! So be prepared to get angry drop your tools a hundred times end up making some small wrenches to get in there and probably need a swivel socket head, also be prepared to have to re-work stuff to shoe horn them in. I pulled my drive shaft, and front sway bar to install the headers then installed the headers and re-installed the drive shaft and sway bar. next moved on to the carbs, i installed them on the inlet manifold and put the manifold on the car……….heres the bad part……..there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY to access the inlet manifold bolts due to the V shape to mount the webbers on the manifold. So my inlet manifold bolts were now useless……I ended up getting studs and threaded those into the head and mounted the manifold back up…… you can finger tighten the nuts but no way to get a wrench or socket in there. So, at this stage im getting miffed……. pulled the carbs off the inlet manifold and try to install that without the carbs on it…….. NOPE, not happening because the headers are in the way……..so ends up pulling drive shaft and sway bar back off……pull the headers back off and have to install the inlet manifold FIRST (no carbs installed) then install the headers then install the carbs on the inlet manifold last! Point being test fit all your stuff and make sure it fits with the other "modified" stuff you are doing. On the bike carbs make sure you have access to your headers, inlet manifold and also if your bike carbs will fit between the head and the bulkhead. Most of the bike carbs i have seen have been installed on Crossflow heads (inlet manifold is on the radiator side) not the rear, bulkhead side so check how much room you have available.

Also the below is carb related info i have come across or whatever. For info purposes………may or may not be pertinent for you and the bike carbs.

I ripped out the K-Jet high pressure fuel pump, 120psi, and both fuel lines supply and return dont need them as converting to deadhead and all new kit. My carbs need about 3psi. Some folks leave existing K-Jet fuel pump and regulate down from the 120psi to the 3psi which in my mind is just stupid but that way you can use existing pump and setup so i guess it kind of has its sell points. Just not my bag. Also figure out whether you are going to run a deadhead carbs system or a return type system. Think the return is slightly better for maintaining the correct fuel pressure etc and has some advantages. Not for me, im running a dead head system, single fuel line to my carbs.

1. i got low pressure webber (redline) fuel pump and two filters at the rear of the car. One pre-pump and one post pump. I have single fuel hose to engine bay and have fuel shut off valve and a third filter in the bay……more for visually seeing that i have fuel there not so much for the filtering.

2. Carbs like regulated pressure. get a good fuel pressure regulator. i have a malpassi deadhead regulator regulated to 3psi and also get a decent fuel gauge so you know what fuel pressure you are running. If you are running a return system you will need a regulator that supports that.

My car runs ok but i get the feeling that the fuel pressure / accumulation is not 100% dialed in. So right now i think i need a check valve after my pump to maintain pressure in the line when the car is shut off. pretty sure i'm getting drain back to the pump when switched off as the visual fuel filter is full when car running and half empty when car is off. Could also be that my regulator is mounted too close to the carbs and there isn't enough fuel accumulation after the regulator so I may end up adding small fuel accumulator or moving my regulator, not sure yet will see how she runs for the time being.

As for the K-Jet ECU i dont know what you need for the bike carbs if they have injectors you might need it……i dont know…..you should check that out with someone who has already installed those for sure. As for me….. i ripped my ECU out, as i dont need it for running the twin webber 45s.

Bye bye k-Jet


one other tidbit……….check out the available inlet manifolds………you can also get a inlet manifold to run a single webber DCOE sidedraft carb to all 4 cylinders. You can also get a manifold to run one topdraft webber to all 4 cylinders. slightly cheaper option (only need one carb) and super simple also. ebay has ton of webbers, also (other brands etc). mine were nasty looking when i got them…….pulled mud dobbers out from inside them. but they cleaned up good and only cost $400. had to get new jets but second hand webbers are not really a problem as long as you have time and some patience to clean them up and get the right jets. Few good videos on youtube for the webber setup and cleaning etc. You might save yourself a ton of cash gettgin second hand webbers. just price in the cost for new gaskets and stuff though. Total cost for my webber setup, new jets, gaskets and manifold was prob somewhere in region of $750 USD but obviously some time invested in cleaning old parts etc. Don't know what the bike carbs sound like but the webbers have a sweet sweet buuuuuurrrrrrppppp sounds when you stomp on it! You will Smile from ear to ear!! i would defo get webbers again. 

 
Holy, that sounded like a nightmare! I will take your advice and try to fit everything first! 

I bought this one, looks a littel bit diffrent from youres, maybe im lucky and it fits easyer😬


Im also consernd about the heat, so i guess i also gotta wrap em,  just gonna have to live whit that i guess. 

I just ordered the kit whit 4 biker carbs, intake, airfilter and everything i need, it also comes whit a fuel pump from a motorcycel that delivers 3psi, according to the experts that wil be perfect for my setup! Gotta do some wiring and search for the right "relee" (dont know then english word for it) to connect it to, so it starts when i turn on the ignition. 

If i have understood it correct, i should have everything i need to make the car running, not looking forward to adjusting the carbs, rumors says thats gonna take alot of time and beer. 

For the injectors, i found out that the threads needed to block them out is M24x1.5 so i ordered 4 bolts and hoping for the best! Cheers!

Kimeng said

Shubbs said

yeah i like the webbers and they have an awesome sound!! Love em!

as for the headers i also bought mine on ebay. They were fairly cheap so no complaints. I ended up wrapping mine, i much prefer the open….. non wrapped look but they are way too close to my drive shaft rubber cv joint cover and also the steering rack. Theres another good post online here somewhere think it might have been one of pacemans posts on the headers but also got some info from Briano1234 about the heat shield etc. Anyway after that discussion I ended up wrapping the cv joint with heat shield material and same for my steering rack as well as putting in the slightly modified original heat shield from my old downpipe. i got brand new steering rack and drive shafts/boots etc so didn't want to melt any of those. Photo of my headers below, and a good point to note is they were flanged at the midpipe section, i converted mine to slip-fit to marry up with my techtonics tuning midpipe and borla exhaust system. Before you install your headers make sure they fit with your carbs. Sounds stupid i know but keep reading……..

As for the carbs, i dont like the look of the bike carbs but i know few folks that run them. Not my cup of tea like i said. Had a quick read of the link you provided…..seems like they have injectors?????? Do you need a fuel injection system for those???? Defo want to ask someone who has already installed those what is required from your fueld system, if it has injectors you may need the higher pressure fuel pump and accumualtor etc.

Also, what you should be concerned about is space between your head and the bulkhead, bike carbs or webbers or whatever you get…….if your engine is JH (mine is JH also) and it looks like you have a counterflow head (exhaust and inlet manifolds are on same side, the side nearest the bulkhead) so with that being said you will be super tight in there with ANY carbs unless its the top down carb style not side draft style. Not to mention double check whatever inlet manifold you get because inlet manifold, header and carb install up against that bulkhead is a total PAIN, no room to get wrenches or sockets in there!!!! So be prepared to get angry drop your tools a hundred times end up making some small wrenches to get in there and probably need a swivel socket head, also be prepared to have to re-work stuff to shoe horn them in. I pulled my drive shaft, and front sway bar to install the headers then installed the headers and re-installed the drive shaft and sway bar. next moved on to the carbs, i installed them on the inlet manifold and put the manifold on the car……….heres the bad part……..there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY to access the inlet manifold bolts due to the V shape to mount the webbers on the manifold. So my inlet manifold bolts were now useless……I ended up getting studs and threaded those into the head and mounted the manifold back up…… you can finger tighten the nuts but no way to get a wrench or socket in there. So, at this stage im getting miffed……. pulled the carbs off the inlet manifold and try to install that without the carbs on it…….. NOPE, not happening because the headers are in the way……..so ends up pulling drive shaft and sway bar back off……pull the headers back off and have to install the inlet manifold FIRST (no carbs installed) then install the headers then install the carbs on the inlet manifold last! Point being test fit all your stuff and make sure it fits with the other "modified" stuff you are doing. On the bike carbs make sure you have access to your headers, inlet manifold and also if your bike carbs will fit between the head and the bulkhead. Most of the bike carbs i have seen have been installed on Crossflow heads (inlet manifold is on the radiator side) not the rear, bulkhead side so check how much room you have available.

Also the below is carb related info i have come across or whatever. For info purposes………may or may not be pertinent for you and the bike carbs.

I ripped out the K-Jet high pressure fuel pump, 120psi, and both fuel lines supply and return dont need them as converting to deadhead and all new kit. My carbs need about 3psi. Some folks leave existing K-Jet fuel pump and regulate down from the 120psi to the 3psi which in my mind is just stupid but that way you can use existing pump and setup so i guess it kind of has its sell points. Just not my bag. Also figure out whether you are going to run a deadhead carbs system or a return type system. Think the return is slightly better for maintaining the correct fuel pressure etc and has some advantages. Not for me, im running a dead head system, single fuel line to my carbs.

1. i got low pressure webber (redline) fuel pump and two filters at the rear of the car. One pre-pump and one post pump. I have single fuel hose to engine bay and have fuel shut off valve and a third filter in the bay……more for visually seeing that i have fuel there not so much for the filtering.

2. Carbs like regulated pressure. get a good fuel pressure regulator. i have a malpassi deadhead regulator regulated to 3psi and also get a decent fuel gauge so you know what fuel pressure you are running. If you are running a return system you will need a regulator that supports that.

My car runs ok but i get the feeling that the fuel pressure / accumulation is not 100% dialed in. So right now i think i need a check valve after my pump to maintain pressure in the line when the car is shut off. pretty sure i'm getting drain back to the pump when switched off as the visual fuel filter is full when car running and half empty when car is off. Could also be that my regulator is mounted too close to the carbs and there isn't enough fuel accumulation after the regulator so I may end up adding small fuel accumulator or moving my regulator, not sure yet will see how she runs for the time being.

As for the K-Jet ECU i dont know what you need for the bike carbs if they have injectors you might need it……i dont know…..you should check that out with someone who has already installed those for sure. As for me….. i ripped my ECU out, as i dont need it for running the twin webber 45s.

Bye bye k-Jet


one other tidbit……….check out the available inlet manifolds………you can also get a inlet manifold to run a single webber DCOE sidedraft carb to all 4 cylinders. You can also get a manifold to run one topdraft webber to all 4 cylinders. slightly cheaper option (only need one carb) and super simple also. ebay has ton of webbers, also (other brands etc). mine were nasty looking when i got them…….pulled mud dobbers out from inside them. but they cleaned up good and only cost $400. had to get new jets but second hand webbers are not really a problem as long as you have time and some patience to clean them up and get the right jets. Few good videos on youtube for the webber setup and cleaning etc. You might save yourself a ton of cash gettgin second hand webbers. just price in the cost for new gaskets and stuff though. Total cost for my webber setup, new jets, gaskets and manifold was prob somewhere in region of $750 USD but obviously some time invested in cleaning old parts etc. Don't know what the bike carbs sound like but the webbers have a sweet sweet buuuuuurrrrrrppppp sounds when you stomp on it! You will Smile from ear to ear!! i would defo get webbers again. 

 
Holy, that sounded like a nightmare! I will take your advice and try to fit everything first! 

I bought this one, looks a littel bit diffrent from youres, maybe im lucky and it fits easyer😬


Im also consernd about the heat, so i guess i also gotta wrap em,  just gonna have to live whit that i guess. 

I just ordered the kit whit 4 biker carbs, intake, airfilter and everything i need, it also comes whit a fuel pump from a motorcycel that delivers 3psi, according to the experts that wil be perfect for my setup! Gotta do some wiring and search for the right "relee" (dont know then english word for it) to connect it to, so it starts when i turn on the ignition. 

If i have understood it correct, i should have everything i need to make the car running, not looking forward to adjusting the carbs, rumors says thats gonna take alot of time and beer. 

For the injectors, i found out that the threads needed to block them out is M24x1.5 so i ordered 4 bolts and hoping for the best! Cheers!

good luck RELAY is what your are looking for

I used plugs for the injector holes. Pretty sure mine were M22x1.5