Tensioner bolt stuck - options?
Posted
#1658289
(In Topic #235293)
Settled In
VW main dealer advice followed to leave old tensioner in place, but I'm a perfectionist...
I need a bit of advice.
I took my 2006 Mk1 ( yep, defo a 2006) to my VW main dealer for a cam belt change/ service/ mot.
(This car is fitted from the factory with a VW Polo 1.6i AFX petrol engine)
The lead engineer advised that the tensioner pulley bolt is corroded and there is a 50/50 chance it will break if they attempt to remove it. "If it breaks, it is an engine out job to repair it. " The cam belt tensioner is deemed in good condition, so based on VW's advice we replaced the cam belt, but left the old tensioner in place. (…for now… is what I'm thinking)
Question: Has anyone come across a tensioner bolt breaking and is this really an "engine out" problem?
If the engine needs to come out we do the clutch, engine mounts (any other recommendations?) at the same time, but I am a glass half full type of guy, so need some input on the risk assessment and other member's experience here please.
The car will only do 1000 miles in the next year, so I'm probably safe , but do I have any options here or just bite the bullet and risk breaking the bolt/ engine out?
(Adding a pic of the "youngster" and it's even younger (bigger?) brother to thank you for your time.)
Current Mk1's
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
Posted
Settled In
Also something else to note is the torque for the tensioner bolt is not "that" much so might come out easier than you think. And on top of that its a pretty thick stud. unless its super corroded, i would say that the chances of it breaking are slim. I've never had it happen to me, others may have a different opinion about it, but I've had plenty head bolts snap off and that defo a machine shop job to get the tails left in the block drilled out with a manual mill.
Also if you end up taking the engine out, i would check over your steering rack, check the mounts (rubbers) and check over all your rubber boots etc too, and if its power steering check the hoses etc. the hose that goes in the back of the steering rack is a total mother to get out because there's no space to get a wrench in there. I couldn't do it with the engine in, luckily i was taking the engine out anyway and after i did that i still couldn't get it out, so next step was taking steering rack out, which was coming out anyway, but the point is its a pain…… also same process putting it back in i made sure i put that hose on before I bolted the rack back in place and hooked up to steering column.
Example of induction heater. Solary Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W 110V For Automotive Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW Hand Tool - Amazon.com
Last edit: by Shubbs
Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack
Posted
Settled In
Thank you for taking the time to write up a detailed reply - much appreciated.
Current Mk1's
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
Posted
Settled In
NOTE: Also in my first post think I mentioned engine out but just looked at my own photo and the tensioner bolt is in the head. So prob not an engine out job but more of a take the head off job and take that to a machine shop if the bolt snaps off down in the threads.
And another thing, the bolt is prob hardened steel maybe the head is aluminum so I think the chance of it snapping off are even less because of that. The stud is prob stronger than the threads in the head. Again touch base with some other folks and see what they think. Others may or may not have had an issue with this particular stud.
Last edit: by Shubbs
Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack
Posted
Old Timer
Tensioner bolt stuck - options?
Sent from my AC2003 using Tapatalk
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
Having a look online at your engine it's similar to what's fitted to uk spec cars, the tension bolt is fitted to the head not the engine block so worst case is it's head off, no need to remove the whole engine…
The garage is saying it's 50/50 chance of the snapping and to be honest that's the case with most old bolts fitted to cars more than 10 years old so it could come undone no problem.
Get socking the bolt with Plusgas and it should come undone, loosen a little then do it back up, loosen a little more then do it back up etc….as if you try to undo it in one go then it can lock up and then it sheers off.
Make sure they coat the new bolt with copper grease and it will not corrode in place.
Try and find an good "old school garage" with mechanics that are used to old cars and not just cars with computer ports which tells them what to do…
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
Any mechanic is going to make that caveat before attempting to remove it for you.
So it's your call really.
I would use heat on it, and say a prayer to the car gods first!!! You could also soak it in penetrating fluid for a few days prior to the attempt.
Eventually the tensioner will wear out and fail, so it needs to be changed at some point.
Posted
Old Timer
I said fine, well they need to be able to be changed eventually, so go ahead and I'll take it on the chin if they do strip the threads……..
The plugs were changed with no issue.
I've worked in garages for decades, and I've seen jobs which turn sour like this, and the garage has to bear the expense….. I've heard garage owners say that they wish they had given the customer £1000 to take the job elsewhere, as the garage would be better off !!!!
Looking again at your post - the culprit is a seized nut, not a bolt, if the tensioner is located on the stud, it means a bit of heat on the nut will expand the nut and it'll loosen easy…..
Posted
Settled In
I agree, the risk is mine here . I have the car back with the old tensioner pulley, but a new belt. I will book this in again and let them have a go at the bolt and report back.
Really appreciate all the tips.
Current Mk1's
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
1992 VW Citigolf CTi 1.8i (SA)
Previous MK1's
2006 VW Velociti 1.6i (UK)
1992 VW Mk1 Golf Clipper 1.8 carb (UK)
2000 VW Mk1 Citigolf Life 1.6i (SA)
1991 VW Mk1 Citigolf Sport 1.8 carb (SA)
1983 VW Golf Mk1 GTS 1.6 carb (SA)
Posted
Local Hero
2. Slightly Jack the engine with a board under the oil pan, and using a small hammer 4 oz ball peen tap it a few time to beat it back into submission.
Another trick that I have used before is to Remove the Belt off the pulley and heat it with a propane torch a wee bit.
Use a pair of vice grips clamped as tight as you can get them, around the non-threaded part, and again with the small ball peen smack it in the direction you tighten it (yes I said tighten) a couple of times, then smack it in the direction to loosen, usually works well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
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They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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Posted
Old Timer
Main dealers mechanics are less skilled and the dealerships over charge.
Plus they are really not interested in us and our cars.
There are too many online users to list.