Steering rack

Hi guys, I'm looking for advise please , my 89 cab has got an advisory on its MOT for play in the steering. I was told I had to get the parts. The garage wasn't clear on what I need they just said the mount where the rack attaches to car? After some research I have purchased a pair of rubber steering rack mount boots. I am interested in how things are done with regards to my car and was wondering if this is a difficult job to do and Am I likely to need any other parts at hand for the job to be completed.
Any info regarding this work would be much appreciated, cheers Neil 

Bit of confusion here, generally speaking the boots is the term for the rubber bellows fitted either side of the rack, and on their own will not fix any play.  If you just mean the rubber mountings, then as long as they are the issue then a new pair will address the issue, just need fitting.  It has been known for the bodyshell to crack/split in this location leading to some unwanted movement although i would have expected the garage to have said..

Thanks for that, I do mean the rubber mounts, the annoying thing is the garage used what appeared to be some sort of hydraulic joint testing equipment which was pounding the hell out of my pride and joy I could hardly watch, driving home after he told me about the advisory I could not believe the amount of free play in the steering which wasn't there before.
🙁

Yeah my MOT guy has some jiggly thingy on his ramp that shakes the front of the car to bits as he peers around underneath.

On the MOT advisory does it say where the play is; mounts, track rod ends, the rack itself??? As ABF says the bulkhead can crack esp if the cars been lowered and/or has silly sized wheels and weird geometry.

Also MOTs often complain about the play at the top of the steering column which seems to be a MK1 and MK2 Golf "feature"

I'd be careful on this one.

I'd pop back to the garage and confirm what they mean as 'play' is a bit undefined.

The steering rack itself can wear and cause vagueness in the steering. It is adjustable but it's a pain to do as it involves undoing the clamps, undoing the UJ to the steering column and then titling the rack forward (allegedly), then undoing the lock nut, winding in the adjuster slightly, putting it all back together then testing.

Guess what? If it's not tight enough or too tight you have to do it all again!

I couldn't tilt the steering rack far enough forward and ended up taking it out. Not easy with the engine in as you need to break the track rod ends at the steering rack to get it out. At least after doing it 4 times on different cars I can't seem to find a way to get it out without taking off at least one track rod!

But it could be the clamps, the UJ from rack to column or indeed the bearings in the column. Or as stated above the rest of the stuff connecting the wheels to the rack.

Or it could be nothing at all and just 'old cariness' that a younger tester may not be used too.

That probably hasn't helped at all

Sorry

Ian

Play at the top as in, the in or out is caused by the lower inner steering shaft bushing that may have slipped out of position and needs to be shoved back up the shaft and held in place with a Tie-wrap or hose clamp.

I agree the Steering racks are a PITA.
I usually remove both inners and outers, then the down pipe and linkages… I don't have to wiggle it as much or move it from right to left… Like I did the first time with out taking them off….  Then if you have power steering you can only break the hose loose after you have the rack slightly loose in the mount as you can't get your wrench on it.

If you replace the boots make sure that you get the equalization tube back in the boots at the top.

MOT doesn't say much, They just told me the play was were that steering rack mounts to car, I will just book car in for the work to be done and see what happens, thanks guys