Radio wiring help

Right guys need so help as it's frustrating Me, basically I decided to fit a new head unit to my mk1 golf gti 1982 it's has the very early style fuse box, before I started,  I looked at the wiring and the previous keeper had both the red acc ( ignition live wire) and the yellow perment live wire from the unit harness connected to one wire which was connected to the hazard wire which made the head unit have a perment live, the black ground wire from the head unit harness is connect to the ground crown which is OK,  to sort out the wiring I have placed the acc red wire ( ignition live wire) to the  G section of the fuse box so it has a ignition live, the yellow 12v wire I have connected to the cigarette lighter socket via a spade connector as I no longer use my cigarette lighter original wiring so just added a spade connected and connected it to the live wire of the ciggrette lighter socket, now the help I need is that on the wiring harness the yellow wire which is the 12v permanent live has a 10amp inline fuse, if I'm correct the original ciggrette lighter socket is fused, so do I have to remove the inline 10amp fuse on the yellow wire or would it be OK to keep it even thought the ciggrette socket it's connected to is fused, secondly do I need to add a inline fuse to the red acc (ignition live wire) as I don't think the G section spade  5 is fused but I could be wrong, all help is greatly appreciated in advance

I'd keep the 10amp in line as the ciggies lighter is probably much higher.
Yup I'd also fuse the permanent live as well. Better safe than sorry.

Ian

factory mk1/2/3 the radio is fed from the same wire as the ciggy ligther so you dont need both fuses, though it wont hurt to leave an extra one in.

also factory looms dont have a fuse on the switched live either, though again if you want to add oen by all means. G spade 3 is the one to use for reference if anyone else was wondering.

or factory way to get switched live is add a spade terminal to ignition switch plug pin S, this goes live when key is inserted

Thanks the ciggy fuse is 8amp but the inline one for the permanent live ( yellow wire on unit harness) is 10amp  this is the wire that will be connected to the ciggy lighter wiring side, so would it still be ok to keep the 10amp in place on the yellow wire, also the only spade I have spare on the G Spade side is number 5 this is also piggy backing my volt meter would it be ok to put a 10amp inline fuse on the ignition live for the stereo, my G section spade 2 is free but it's not working and the fuses seems to be there 1 to 16 and the 17 fuse is missing but it's for the fog lights which don't have and there are only 1-17 fuses on this early fuse box , could the fuse 17 play a part in g/2 not working? Sorry to be a pain just want to make sure I'm doing it right and sorting out the previous mess thanks again for all the help guys much appricated

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Well every aftermarket radio I have ever installed on the Rabbit/Cabriolet/Golf especially the early ones where the Radio could be switched on with the key out, and in my 90 Cabby caused me difficulty when I left it on but turned down and went out to find that the battery was dead, and you can't "Pop" start a EFI car if the battery is DEAD.  

I used the Defroster Power as it is a Switched source, similar to the "X" contact on the Ignition switch but easier to get to and to use as the 90's Cabby's that I owned with the Airbag is such a pain in the Posterior to remove the Wheel and covers to get to the switch.

Thanks guys, so would it be OK to leave the 10amp inline fuse on the harness for the permanent live wire that's is connected to the ciggy socket which is fused by a 8amp at the fuse box and also should I add a 10amp inline fuse to the ignition live wire coming from G section spade 5, thanks guy just want to make sure it bes OK

You can leave the fuse in if you like or remove it makes no odds either way.

G spade 5 isn't ignition live it's a feed from the battery charge light in the cluster so remove that. You need to use g spade 3 for your ignition lives, you're fine to piggy back a few feeds from it so long as you don't put too much load on. Radio and gauges are fine, check what's connected.to spade 3 right now though.

You can tap into the heater blower switch if you like, but I prefer not to modify original wiring (though if current loom is.bodged all to hell what's one more non-standard wire tap )

Or if you have an S terminal on your ignition switch you can run it there, at least on a euro spec MK1 it's really easy to access ignition loom as we don't have to deal with the knee bar

Ahh I see, that's why both my volt meter and radio don't come on till the battery light of the dash has gone out, so il have to see what's connected to G Spade 3, and also out of curiosity what can be connected to G Spade 5, I have the earlier style fuse box from 1977-1982 with the ceramic/torpedo style fuses, and of I had to connect to the heater switch which colour wire will it need to be taped in to. Thanks again hopefully getting there now

Leave g spade 5 empty, it shouldn't have anything in it. For heater switch it's the black/red you want or sometimes.its black/yellow

Thanks jhon, il see what's on the G spade 3 and let you know, in the mean time I found a wire connected to a black and red wire on the blue connector on the fuse box it had a wire attached to it but the end of the wire was floating with nothing connected to it would this he the wire for the heater switch that I need to tap in to I did get a picture of it, thank you again I do appriciate all the help

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thats the blower power wire yep, though those kind of wire tap blocks are nasty little things, they damage the copper wire underneath and are overall a bodgy way to make a connection. I would remove, make sure copper isnt split too badly then use good insulation tape over the split in the insulation.

then follow my own advice above

I see I had a look at it and the part where it connects to the block looks like it had melted in past so I think il leave that out as it did have a a wire connected to it that I removed so could of been something the previous owner had connected to it and it melted so that's why there was a wire just floating about that was connected to it, I had a look at G Spade 3 and it seems to have a single black wire coming from the wiring loom is this something normal or would that be another connection that someone had added and finally can I piggy back of this wire if it's normal or do I need to follow it back to see what it is I habe attached a picture and it seems to look oem spade connector the way the plastic is but that's just my thought , I have removed my digital volt meter so there is less load to worry about even if it wasn't much so now just have head unit ignition  live to connect thanks in advance for all the help lol nearly there nearly there

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that's probably the ignition live feed to the handbrake light, simple test unplug and see if it still works

you can make a simple piggy back loom without damaging the original wire, get yourself a male spade, female spade. crimp the radio wire and a 2nd wire into the female spade, crimp a male onto the 2nd spade. plug female to G/3, male to the black wire which used to go there

can put your vdo gauges on the same feed as well, they dont use much so you wont overload the terminal.

with the radio just make sure you put the live and switched  live wires the right way roudn then there wont be any load on G/3 from the radio either.  On an aftermarket ISO plug the switched live is red, main live yellow.

Ok so i can piggy back the radio ignition live of the black wire on G/3 , i have taken out my volt meter as the main purpose was to cover a hole where the previous owner installed electric window switches and instead if using the choke plate he or she must cut the dash so I only will have the radio wire to worry about now so piggy backing of the black wire on G/3 should be fine? Thanks again for the help john

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yep all good

Thanks John much appriciated, all sorted now with your guidance and knowledge much appriciated thank you

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good stuff