Nearly in tears
Posted
#1599286
(In Topic #217521)
Old Timer
Gutted
Posted
Moderator
Been there, done that. Erm not the fire but usually very annoying.
Did you put the plastic splash tray back in? If not your oil will be going everywhere.
Also did you top the oil up again?
It's not the end of the world. Even if you've cooked the head it's easy enough to remove, get tested and sorted and stick it back on again. The head company will also remove stubborn rocker cover studs (don't ask me how I know )
The cost will be around £250 for a head skim, valve job and spring change. All worth doing on a car that's got some age on it if it's never been done.
It'll be fine
Ian
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
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Local Hero
Posted
Old Timer
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Local Hero
Sorry to hear of your troubles.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
Like this one? This one is more money than I would pay for it….
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mk1-Golf-Cabriolet-1-8-Exhaust-Manifold-As-Pictured/112976657752?hash=item1a4deefd58:g:bEAAAOSwX8da7Vfu
put up a wanted ad?
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
The stainless 4 2 1 is a good mod and in my GTi it has freed up the top end of the revs, not sure you will notice much difference in an auto and the manifold is a right pain to fit and getting the rest of the exhaust not to bang on the cars floor took several attempts…
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Moderator
I'm sure someone will have an exhaust manifold knocking about somewhere. Stick up a wanted ad.
sporttrucker Sean, you ain't got one have you? I know you're having a clear out and you've got lots of wonderous stuff in your Aladins cave
Ian
Posted
Local Hero
mark1gls said
Yes the stainless system does fit the middle section of the exhaust, you need to wrap at lest the rubber boot for the steering UJ as it runs very close and it can catch fire and you don't want that again… I've also wrapped my exhaust to keep the heat down.
The stainless 4 2 1 is a good mod and in my GTi it has freed up the top end of the revs, not sure you will notice much difference in an auto and the manifold is a right pain to fit and getting the rest of the exhaust not to bang on the cars floor took several attempts…
I put the g60 4-2 on my car with a dual down pipe, and it does give it a kick in the pants on an Auto.
I used sheet tin (aluminum) to prevent the heat from attacking the steering rack, and the cv-boots which you have to be very mindful of.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
Bought this one not sure about the quality but certainly be better than a cracked one 😣😣
Posted
Local Hero
I have 3 sets of 4X4 blocks that are 12" long, and bolted together, I can get my car an additional 12" in the air. ok, 4X4" are really 3.75" so I lied.
DO NOT USE CONCRETE CINDER BLOCKS, they can Crumble under the weight and kill you.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Moderator
I would say heat normally helps too, but I think you've probably applied enough heat for a minute
(Sorry, I just had to say that!)
Yep it's a pain in the bum to do it. You may find it easier to remove the carb as well as there are nuts under the inlet mainfold that are quite tricky to get to. I'd also suggest you have new studs on standby as you may need some. Obviously you're well aware of issues of getting studs out of things. New brass nuts will also be needed probably as will an exhaust gasket.
Getting the clips off the original exhaust to manifold joint is also a pain. There is a VW tool for it.
Does you new manifold come with a link pipe? It's been a while since I did mine but I think looking at the picture you have posted that you will require a short length of pipe to go from the minfold above to join the exhaust under the car.
Briano1234 can you confirm?
I had a whole new exhaust so I'm not sure about joining aftermarket mani's to the original exhaust.
Have a good look before you go ripping stuff off. You may need to go to an exhaust place to get it done if you do need a link pipe.
Ian
Posted
Local Hero
Then there are replacement studs that you can buy that have hex headed or Allen Drives which allow you to have an easier time to install and seat them. I would STRONGLY URGE you to use the copper nuts, and never-seize on both ends of the stud, with the Driver ends it makes it easier to install the pipe then the studs to hang it.
Yes the second is Stainless, and they are from a 1992 Saturn SL1 4Cyl auto.
Using plenty of PB-Blaster or Croil, and a Pneumatic Impact (low profile) will prevent you from possibly torque shearing the studs that you are removing the nuts from, and if the whole stud comes out with the nut all the better. Heat and a Wire brush on the nuts and plenty of PB-Blaster Days, hours and minutes prior to trying to remove them are the key……along with a pneumatic impact. I know as I used a 6pt socket and ratchet on my 90, and ended up taking it to the machine shop to have 3 of the broken studs removed and helicoiled or t-serts installed….. Dang 8mm studs… if they used 10, then we wouldn't be having the shearing issue oh well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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