MK1 NOS brake compensator vs new one
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Quick question: is it a bad idea to install a NOS brake compensator vs a new one? I've got eyes on a mint ATE unit, and a new one is about 60£ more. Seing it's a potentially 20+ year old item, I'm wondering if there are any seals that might have gone bad even though it looks fresh?
Sorry it's not megaurgent, but I could really appreciate someone's thought on it.. Thanks
Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Local Hero
NOS may not be better as dry o-rings for 25 years dry rot, and when you add new Fluid may swell and leak.
If the older one wasn't leaking there isn't probably anything wrong with it. The NOS isn't a known good thing off the bat.
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Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Local Hero
On my Cabriolet, the proportional valves are on the MC for the rears. And they are just a restrictor for the drums.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
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Where are my DIY Links?
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Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
https://www.mister-auto.co.uk/brake-power-regulator/volkswagen-golf-17-1-8-gti-112hp_v1628_g73.html
Still not too bad for what it is though.
Nut & Bolt Resto Complete (Mars Red GTi original): https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fpistolpete-s-mars-red&start__keyed=
Nut & Bolt Resto in Progress (Lhasa 16v): https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fpistolpete-s-lhasa&redirected=1
Nut & Bolt Resto in Progress (Lhasa 16v): https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fpistolpete-s-lhasa&redirected=1
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In order to have the car registered with the DX engine however, I need the bigger 17.46mm rear cylinder for the drums, and therefore also a brake force regulator/pressure valve. Could you tell me the part number for the ones you have Briano? And what size drums/cylinders you have please?
Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Local Hero
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/parts_lst/markt/USA/modell/CONV/year/1992/hg/6/catalog/vw/drive_standart/44/lang/e
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
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Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Local Hero
They all used proportional valves that were on the MC. I don't know how well they will work on a non-cabriolet type of MC as my Westy had 2 ports, whereas my Cabriolet has 4.
I mean come on a load sensing valve has major suckage… I had one on my Dodge Caravan, and it was part and parcel of the rear leaf spring assembly… so if it went bad you had to buy a new Spring…. I guess it was easier to put on and off. NOT.
On my Westy the valve was part of a Distribution block that affixed to the fender under the MC.
ouch
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/oenumber/811614151.html
Here is what the Wsty Rabbits used in the US.
https://www.ebay.com/p/VW-Mk1-Rabbit-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-OEM-179-612-451-a/17022264486?iid=163189869019&chn=ps
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
I have no idea on the regulations in your country but I imagine when they say it needs to be GTI-spec, they mean GTI hatchback of the same era as your car (its a hatchback, right?)
There's 3 important things: rear wheel cylinders, proportioning valve, any fixed reducing valves if fitted. I would have thought it makes sense to get these for the same spec of car, ie not mix-and-match the components; and I think your country's regulations are basically going to impose that requirement on you.
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The problem is I don't have the floor mounting for the rear BFR, so I was hoping to just install the valves instead if they did more or less the same thing. I'm also planning to install a 22mm MC and a 9" servo along with the VW2 calipers, but I'm not sure what to do with the rears now…
Even though mine's not a cabby, wouldn't it be better to have valves fitted than no bias at all? Then I could at least install the larger rear cylinders and say that regulators are fitted for the inspection. But yea it doesn't feel quite right mix-matching brake components either
Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Old Timer
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Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
MOTY 2013
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Old Timer
As has been mentioned, the compensator reduces the force (fluid pressure) that is going to the rear drums when the car is not loaded, preventing lock up. Fill the car with people and stuff and the compensator opens to allow more force (fluid pressure) to the rear drums.
Posted
MOTY 2013
on the later cab/scirocco the load valve under the car is removed as are the residual pressure valves you mentioned, and instead inline type reducing valves are screwed direct to the master cylinder and rear brake lines fitted into them.
the scirocco 16v has different versions of the valves, but these are hard to get. plenty of late cab owners have gone for rear discs using the drum valves no problem mind, and the OP doesnt care either way as he wants GTI type drum brake setup
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
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Last edit: by goldie_88
Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
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