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Is my car running too hot?

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Hi there, my temp guauge is faulty since I bought my 91 cab, so I bought an external gauge, the one below from Amazon. It's constantly reading 200 to 210 f, and fan does kick in at aroumd 240 and bring it back down to 210 or so and cycle continues. I have new water pump, radiator, thermostat. And there's no sign of leakage.

Do you think the gauge is not accurate? Or fan kicking in too late?

Thanks in advance! 20190202_173851.jpg

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All depends on is it Celsius or Fahrenheit, and of your car has a/c, or not.

The a/c system has a 2 speed fan that kicks on any time you have your car in defrost, or blue area of the selector, it has a 3 pronged temp sender on the Radiator, and you have a engine CTS that assists.  Depending on your t-stat rating and the switches rating (should be matched) The radiator fan on a 2 speed system kicks on at 95 (no ac on) low speed and 105 it goes to hi-speed.  There is also a relay in front of the battery that controls the fan, and the after run fan operation these relays strictly a 40 Amp general relay can go bad.

The are you measuring the water temp or the oil temp? Oil sender is a single pin on the oil filter flange, and the 90 Cabriolets have a black sender on the front engine water outlet that had the black plug (may be brown), where as the CTS sender on a 90 digifant is blue on the same flange with a blue connector.

The normal dub with a working gauge is 1/2 to a little over 1/2 deflection when driving.  When Stopped you will see the engine go to 3/4 to slightly below the first hot mark.

Now with a Digital gauge I would ask C or F?

And was your Gauge supplied with a new temp sender?
Gauges are Calibrated to the Sender usually.

230C is 110F so this is why I asked.
230F is 446C so it is tooo hot.

Oil is a different issue, as the oil temp on my Automatic is 110-130C driving about town and interstate prior to me putting on an external oil cooler.  Now I can only get it to 110 with the a/c on screaming down the interstate at 80mph.

The Problem with the "in-dash" gauge is a cold solder joint on the wires internal to the gauge.  A simple removal of the Gauge and repair will put it back to original in about 2-3 hours depending on your skill set.

I had had 4 Cabbies, 89-93 and the water gauges have all gone flaky… If your fuel gauge is acting up, then I would suspect the connection and or the 10V stabilizer on the back of the instrument cluster (clocks).

Testing your water temp gauge with a 9Vdc Battery and some jumpers. No Ignition Key needed and it tests the deflection to the gauge.
Testing Digifant Water Gauge | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Here is a good how-to on fixing flaky grounds and power to your clocks.
Improving your Cluster Connections and ground. | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Here is the how do I repair my water temp gauge.
Repairing your Flaky Water Temp Gauge | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum
 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Hi there, the gauge is Farenheit, so fan kicking in at around 110 to 115 Celcius?  I was refering to the coolant temp. The CTS is one thing i havent change, not sure if it will make a difference.

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That is what I would consider to be normal as 95-115 is the temp range one would suspect for a functional system, I personally would fix the one in the cluster as it has the red flashing low-coolant light and the flashy I am tooooooo hot.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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