Engine rebuild

Is it possible that you have put a head gasket on bassackwards, yes you can I suspect.

The diesels have the notches that usually go behind the scupper…..

here is a diesel notched one. Orange is the major Oil Scupper drain back to the sump.  The Yellow is one of the major oil ports that in some is a weak spot.



Here is a head gasket kit for a 1.8 .

While anything is possible…it isn't easy as the major scupper holes in the front won't line up.

is that upside down or right way up

Spin the head gasket 180 degrees

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i am in the same situation at the  moment engine
problems

Wots wrong with it

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injector seal lodged in the inlet

head back on at the weekend hopefuully

Don't forget new head bolts.  They aren't re-usable.

Hi all, right i had primed the oil pump but as I did not put everything back together in a day or two the oil pump had lost the oil, so had to reprime the pump and now getting oil as it should. Now I need to sort this misfire out. Soz if am being a pain but help from the ppl in the know goes a long way. With the misfire I have changed dissy cap, ht leads & plugs but still the same.

Your not being a pain so don't worry about it…

Glad the oil pump priming worked and you didn't need to pull the head off again.

misfire problem… what do the little bits of braided rubber hoses connecting the dissy vacuum look like, are they making a good seal?

All pipes have been checked and sprayed wd40 to see if engine changes idle but nothing happened, checked for good spark but again 1, 2 was a weak spark, 4 was ok but 3 was strong spark.

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Hi all, ok now i ve took the head off again just to make sure everything is on as it should have been, which it was head gasket, no leakes on inlet or exhaust manifold. All pipes where on as they should have been on. Now my thinking is it has to be a problem with valves not sitting properly. If anybody has any ideas before i stick it altogether again please let me know, so I can carry out the checks on it.

These are pictures when head has been taken off. Still need to take cam off just to see if there is a leak. Anybody know what Nm it is when tightening the cam back on?

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Ok took cam off and tried the leak test and 45 mins after still got fuel so am i right in thinking the valves are setting as they should. Some fuel has evaporated.

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Greenmk1 said

All pipes have been checked and sprayed wd40 to see if engine changes idle but nothing happened, checked for good spark but again 1, 2 was a weak spark, 4 was ok but 3 was strong spark.

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If there is a noticeable difference in spark then the problem must be on ignition, not likely to be the valves sticking open.  Have you tried swapping the no 3 plug for the no 1 or 2 plug to see if you still get a strong spark? How are you checking for spark? Are you taking the plug out to check? Did you change the rotor arm?
Some methods for checking spark if you haven't already - https://www.youcanic.com/article/check-engine-spark-no-start I'm a particular fan of the 'quick and dirty' method they mention as this take s the plug out of the equation, so you can just test the HT leads - see if the problem follows the lead. Pull your fuel pump relay first though!

J

Oh, camshaft bearing caps are 20 Nm (14 lbft).

J

what do i know is it the photo why
are three plugs the correct colouring
and one darker

Hi all, been sometime now i ve not been on here but the update with this is the 3 injector fuel lines 1,2 & 4 had some how got blocked which was causing to misfire on all 3 cylinders, only found out after taking the head off again to find the issue. But hey it works as a dream now just need to get it tuned up properly. A very big thanks to all for helping me out on this.

A happy ending!
 

I think this is just the begining lol

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