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Oil leaking past my filter

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Mk1 1.6D

Can anyone help, I have a 91 Mk1 Caddy 1.6 and the oil is leaking past the seal on the oil filter. On inspection it looks like it has to much oil pressure and the filter is giving away as its just done it with the new filter also after about five minutes of driving!!!!!!!
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

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What make of filter are you using?
Did you smear the new filters seal with oil before screwing it on?
Do you have an water feed oil cooler which the oil filter fits to?
What oil did you use?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Hi,, The first filter was Fram and the second was Mann, the seal was smeared with oil before fitting.
The filter housing I think just bolts onto the block, I cant remember any cooling pipes going to it, I used recommended oil from GSF car parts but even after replacing it yesterday what has come out is very black and pretty thick.

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All of the above.

But just to clarify.
So what you're saying is that this was happening with the old oil filter and now a new one?

If so the only things that spring to mind much like Mark said and they are:

What makes are the oil filters and were they the correct capacity for your engine?
Was the ring seal oiled before fitting?
Assuming you've done an oil change, how much did you put in?

Perhaps you inadvertently over tightened the filter and that will cause it to leak.
Did you fill the oil filter up with fresh oil before fitting and then inadvertently put to much oil in beyond the max.
How does the level look on the dip stick when the engine is warm.

I'm just throwing out some thoughts for you to think about ok!  👍


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Hi, Yes the old filter did the same, five minutes driving and then it decided to leak all its oil past the seal, the new one was fitted with new oil and the level when warm was just below the max mark.

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Craiggodfrey said

Hi, Yes the old filter did the same, five minutes driving and then it decided to leak all its oil past the seal, the new one was fitted with new oil and the level when warm was just below the max mark.

Well assuming everything above was done correctly then I'm at a bit of a lose because that would only leave the oil pump.

But I can't see how! 😕
Clearly I'm technically challenged as well! 😂

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Wait a minute, what about some sort of restriction on the return from the oil filter back to the engine?

Partial blockage if you like adding back pressure on to the filter and it's seal?

Just a crazy thought! 👍

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Hi, I guess that's the only thing left :(  if no one else can come up with anything that's where i'll start

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there is a pressure relief valve in the oil pump, you can split it down to check but if its bust you cant get the parts seperately. if its just stuck you may be able to free it and buff it plus the bore to remove any burrs.

to know if its too high get the oil pressure checked at one of the holes on top of the filter housing

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Cheers as ever John! 👍 😀

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Which oil did GSF recommend?
I know Euro recommends the wrong grade of oil on there website, they think these cars should run on 5w30 oil which is way to thin.
I think 10w40 is what you should put in a diesel but it was many years ago when I had a Mk1 Diesel.  :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Hi, the oil was the correct 10/40. I think the only thing I can do is to get a replacement oil pump as there can't be anything else surely that could cause this.
When I've looked it's like the filter has blown up a bit and deformed in shape????

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The oil pump part number I need is 026 115 153A. If anyone has a good buying experience let me know.

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 Known yrs ago I had lot problem with oil filters on mk2 golf 8v keep blown up oil filter and also leaking from seal.   Was the wrong filter they were supplying me
Was something do with the valve in side filter

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Change to the pump for a known good one and buy your oil filter from VW!  :thumbs:

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If you have the water jacket oil cooler on top of the filter (square thing with 2 hoses) that the filter screws into, then you could have an issue with the o-ring between the oil cooler and the filter flange, that when you loosed the first filter, you loosened up the nut.

When you changed your filter, did you notice if the old filters o-ring remained on the filter flange?


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Briano1234 said

If you have the water jacket oil cooler on top of the filter (square thing with 2 hoses) that the filter screws into, then you could have an issue with the o-ring between the oil cooler and the filter flange, that when you loosed the first filter, you loosened up the nut.

When you changed your filter, did you notice if the old filters o-ring remained on the filter flange?



Good suggestion!.
Also,As suggested there are a lot of Chinese made filters that were bought in by good brands (including original manufacturers-cheap to buy for out of production models?!)  and branded as such BUT these have led to serious damage to engines and gearboxes (blocked/not filtering and disintegrating!! :o )
This is my experience with tractors -and I do not see any difference with cars. So get another branded one and try it. Just a chance….  

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Daytona said






Good suggestion!.
Also,As suggested there are a lot of Chinese made filters that were bought in by good brands (including original manufacturers.

Over on this side of the pond, Friends don't let Friends use FRAM filters, I have noticed that BOSCH filters have gone down the Cost reduced route as well.  Stay away from Generic, or Store Branded Filters.

Use Genuine VW, Mahl, Mann, PureolatorGold, NAPAGold, WIX, Moble1, or STP as they are known good filters, and will not give you the flickering oil lignt from hades at a idle.



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