Just will not run. Over fuelling?

The long awaited return to the road for my golf has taken abit of a step back.

I have replaced with new with the help and advice of my mechanic pal -
Cam belt, dizzy cap, rotar arm, ht leads, spark plugs, oil filter change…..I have also replaced with new the radiator but the coolant system is still unfinished but we have been just trying to get the car to run to properly flush the old coolant out and this should not i believe affect the problem I'm having….

The car will start but die as soon as the revs are taken off. I'm getting sparks to all 4 plugs albeit number 3 is weak. I'm getting the distinct smell of fuel I'm leaning towards this being a fuelling problem by the way of too much fuel getting to the engine.

On the brink of getting the car recovered to a garage but really do hope the problem is minor and this does not need to happen so any advice or experience with this problem at all would be greatly appreciated.

1 step forward 2 steps back 😣

Thanks

Things to check for.

Bad CTS (blue) Sensor
Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (do the pressure checks for fuel) and then do the residual checks as outlined in the Haynes or Bentley they have nailed my FPR issues.
The Throttle By-Pass screw on the back of the throttle body against the firewall 7mm brass screw, if you can move it with your fingers then the o-ring is bad and causing a vacuum leak.  Go to a GOOD hardware store and get a new o-ring, then Wrap the Threads and Threads only of that screw with 3 wraps of Teflon Tape.
return to the throttlebody fully seat it, then back it off about 1 and 1/4 turn.

MAF issues.

Any Vacuum leak can run Havoc with the DIGI engine.
Also if you used a timing light to time it, you did get the engine up to temp, then plugged off the hose, and removed the electric connection off the blue CTS, reved the thing over 3000 3 times to reset the ECU then holding it at 2250rpm you timed it for 6BTDC?

Or you can set it with a DVOM meter statically takes about 5 minutes, and a single person can do it.

If you have the old cloth covered hoses for Vacuum, then look for dry rotted connections as I have had to snip a bit off the old ends to get tighter connections.

Two places that gave me fits finding were:

Where the intake rubber hoses fell off the airbox at the bottom servo.

Then there was the weak spot on the Air intake Tube where the "Air Regulator" off the valve cover entered in to the intake.  At certain temps it would suck in and allow unmetered air.  I have a fix in the how-to for that.

Cracked hose from the Booster to the intake
Bad ISV. (dirty or not running).
lastly Cracked or hardened injector seals.

Thanks so much for detailed reply Brian. I shall show that to my mechanic as 90% I just don't understand 😂🙈

1st off double check the cambelt timing marks are all lining up, if you can take some pictures so we can see if they are right.

You could try and unplug the blue electrical connector to the 5th fuel injector so extra fuel is not added when starting a cold engine to see if it runs any better. I ran for 12 months with mine unplugged as I have leaking fuel injectors so it's ok the run with the 5th injector.

Hi Mark. I paid a proper mechanic to do the cam belt bud didn't wana mess with that and he says it's all lined up 'top dead centre' I had a screwdriver resting on the valves.
Did the last bit of your msg say it's ok to run without the 5th injector?
I have noticed that when I did the oil and filter change the oil was willing correctly and now it's quite abit over I'm presusuming been topped up with petrol somehow (through injectors?) Been reading up about possible bore wash

Bri i believe your the elecetrics man haha found some rather concerning wires and connector box loose coming through the bulk head. Is this just a former owners handy work or something that actually needs connecting? What wires normally come through the passenger side bulk head?
Thanks.

I have found power cables going from dash to boot suggesting an amp or cd changer and the likes at some point. Cheers

A very proud novice just emptied the petrol tank  -
8 year old fuel looking a funny colour. Maybe I put an additive in before I garaged it 🤔

Filters came off. There is abit of  in there dunno if it's bad? Seen one rust spot but hard to foto

Pump looks decent

Is the little filter on the end of the lift pump sealed eg. There's something on the bottom of it?

Check the condition of the little rubber hose between the lift pump and metal part of the fuel sender as it's sat in petrol and the rubber can rot away.

No apologises needed at all pal you are helping me a great deal and I appreciate any time you give whenever you are able to give it I really do. Like I said I tried to drain it via the pump but for some reason the pump wudnt engage on the ignition. Lad at work says maybe because of a sensor sensing no pressure? I don't know I'll deal with that when the fuel system is back together.
The whole fuel system from filler neck to injections was replaced shortly before it was garaged so the filler neck tank hosing etc are in good nick. Iv changed the filter drained the tank (hoovered the bits of dirt out you can see in the fotos 😬) and retrieved the filter from inside the tank with wire coat hanger haha.
I always wanted to suck the fuel out but was abit scared to do mess with an electric pump over an open fuel tank but I just got on with it and even enjoyed it. Not done anything near to what iv done today on any car before with your help so thanks

The filter at the bottom is not sealed and to be honest I don't even know how it goes together it doesn't fit together was it glued and the glue has perished?

I've also left a magnet in my fuel tank, put it way from the plastic ball arm for measuring the amount of petrol in tank as you don't want that to stick to the magnet…. The magnet sticks to the bottom of the tank and collects any bits of rust etc while I drive about.  

I have a different filter on my lift pump…
I'll try and find a link to one….

my filter looks like this, I’m not sure you can buy just the filter?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-Tank-Fuel-Pump-Lift-Pump-For-Volkswagen-Golf-MK1-Cabriolet-MK2-GTI-8v-16v/152492116898?epid=2151361217&hash=item23813d0ba2:g:wNgAAOSwCU1Y3hFy

If the rubber thing you are talking about is this -
Yes it's in good nick. Like I say full fuel system was changed. It's nice to know it was actually done as some repair works you can't tell if they have such as an in tank pump.

Yes that's the rubber hose, some has changed it, it looks a little short? There is a measurement from the top of the sender to the pick up end of the lift pump, I'll try and get the info……

A should be 175mm , if it to short you will run out of petrol before the tank is empty but to be honest I would not drive with the fuel tank in the red as they don’t like running on empty, 1/4 tank line and I fill mine up.

So basically I need a new filter at the bottom of this Pump I'll see if we have anything at work or ask about where I can get something like that don't wana buy stuff off the net that will take a week to come then not fit

Again 😂

With filter it's bang on 175mm bud

Yes you need something to filter the petrol going into that pump.

If you can't find anything to fit on the end could buy another lift pump and use the filter from that one? I've been through about 4 lift pumps in 20 years so you could then have a spare pump.

I might have a spare from one of my old pumps if I can find an old pump, give me a day or 2.  

Ok bud that's great I'll see what's about at work we have a team of fitters and a great stock of bits. Don't understand how this filter has come off and fell apart 🤔
How much is a new lift pump if it isn't much I'll just buy one at least then can cross that off as a problem.
Altho fitter at work said if the car runs even tho it dies when you take foot off the accelerator then both pumps must be working ok.

Ps magnet is a great tip wow