2.0 ABF bottom end and 16V KR head rebuild Pic heavy

I've had a look and I can't see a throttle switch. I have an old 8v throttle body with a throttle switch but I don't think it'll fit plus it was removed from my old gti for the upgraded Audi 100 tb. I'd better get one organised although, it did run well with out it before but now it won't idle properly. This is probably the reason. The 1.8 16v KR set up seemed way under powered. Makes me wonder if it had running problems and now this engine is air tight and been rebuilt it needs the throttle valve. Mind you, I do have 288 highlift cams fitted so the fuelling and ignition timing needs setting up.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p179/big-mach/e7181856.mp4





I'm a little worried about the oil pressure.
I think the idling issue is because nothing is set up now it has new high lift cams and had a major air leak before. It also could be something to do with this throttle switch?

I know the ignition timing is out as I can't set it because the line on the flywheel is all over the place with my strobe light.

I've posted a short video or your viewing pleasure.

I have just bought a mk2 16v KR throttle body with a throttle switch on it so hopefully it will be here soon then I can connect the fuel adjustment valve up.

I've had a good search around and I cant seem to find anywhere that sells the over run cut off valve. Any ideas other than the dealer?

I think once all these are fitted I can get the car set up properly.

Does anyone know roughly how many mpg a well set up mk1 ABF/KR will put out with my modifications. Just out of interest?

MPG Calculator
http://www.torquecars.com/tools/uk-mpg-calculator.php

0-60, 0-100, 1/4 Calculator (this is very accurate, I have entered specs from websites such as parkers and they come up the same so this suggest it will work your cars spec out pretty well)

http://www.torquestats.com/modified/index.php?pid=calculator&action=calculate_times&drive=FWD&bhp=190&weight=810&submit=Calculate

BHPPT Calculator
quarter mile time Calculator 1/4 mile from weight and bhp

for the valve just get on classifieds or ebay, vw dont sell it any more and i dont know of anywhere else that does either

oil pressure is about 6 bar which is ok when cold, goes off the scale on my 0-5bar gauge. when warm it should drop to about 1bar

Well when the throttle body arrives I'll swap them over then I can try and sort the ignition timing if it ticks over better as it seems like it's missing slightly. It has new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotary arm so doubt there is a missfire.

Just out of interest is the ABF rotary arm the same as the KR? I've fitted the ABF to my KR dizzy as the KR arm got damaged.

It's a brand new oil pump so the oil pressure should be bang on! There is no leaks what so ever too so hopefully it will stay this way.

I need to buy another allen key for the metering head set up as I've lost mine. Any idea what size it is?

Cheers.

All i can find is this and i'm not too sure if it is designed for my car. I've searched everywhere and nothig.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-RS6-VW-PASSAT-1-8L-OVERRUN-CUT-OFF-VALVE-B771-/270873519383?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1151e517

yeah that one wont fit. dont worry too much about it right now, it wont make too much difference. all it does is catch the revs if you lift off at high rpm just before it drops to idle. allen key you need is 3mm, and it needs to be very long!

abf rotor arm is same as kr, and loads of others. just the dizzy & cap that is different

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p179/big-mach/9c7463b5.mp4

Well I had the golf on the drive way today ready to try and set it up and it is dipping and increasing the revs all the time. I recon it may have a faulty Idle Air Control Valve.

After that I noticed water dripping from the bottom of the car. Turns out the brand new radiator that I've just bought is leaking. I'm gutted as I fear they wont exchange it an they will blame me for it braking :-(

I also noticed the fan has been glued in place preiously so I need a new fan as it has broken.

The other thing that was annoying is that my cool looking strut brace won't fit with this engine haha. Not to worry :-(

The joys!

Oh yeah, and it might be worth mentionin that the longer I left it ticking over the lower the oil pressure went on the gauge.

Oh one more thing. How far up should the clutch arm go up as I've had it rebuilt and it seems to have loads of travelto the top before it actually does anything. This means my clutch cable doesn't fit unless it is adjusted all just way up and it has a spacer in between the cable and box

oil pressure will drop as the oil thins, how low did it go? hunting idle usually means the co isnt right, but on yours its probably down to lack of idle switch, the ecu and isv controller need a signal from the idle switch before they go into idling mode. mine used to hunt and race when the idle switch wasnt closing.

for the gearbox questions:
Welcome to BrokeVW.com

I've not left it running long enough to see how low the oil pressure drops as I discovered a hole in my new radiator. I'm sure it had dropped to around 60 on my gauge after a few mins….

I'm off to GSF first thing tomorrow to see if they will swap my radiator as it is damages and i am assured my throttle body will be here before 12 in the afternoon, then I can leave it running and record everything for you to see if everything is operating correctly.

The brokevw website was useful, I'll double check that tomorrow, it even helped with the reverse switch wiring as my loom is for the two pinned round reverse switch but my box has the big black multi pinned switch ;-)

Ps do the videos I'm uploading work for you all? I've never uploaded one before and I'm doing this all from my phone so it would be interesting to know if I'm doing it right.

I shal give this a go.
CO level. 2% adjustment.
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=22031.msg176891#msg176891

Did you use a strut bace with your ABF lump? I'm just wondering which strut brace I could use for my conversion. I have one but the engine sits that hight it doesn't fit without pushing the power rohr onto the cam pulley.

I got my new throttle body today, it looks in good condition. The only thing that worried me was the sensor switch itself, should the throttle arm actually touch the little sensor or not or is it a magnet which needs a certain gap?

i bought one but it didnt fit on my kr cabby. i just settled for a lower one between the wishbones and it drove like it was on rails.

the top arm needs to hit the switch, if you look at it closely you'll see the bit that actually triggers the switch can (should!) move on its own. if its sticky remove the 13mm nut from the tiop and the arm, spring and 2 plastic washers will come off. clean it all up nice and lube, then refit. take care when you put it on that you dont trap the spring between the washers otherwise it'll stick again, its fiddly as hell but you'll get there.

if top linkage is free to move but it still doesnt hit the switch undo the 2 small screws and adjust the switch position

Right gang, I've fitted the new throttle body and throttle switch, there was a little 8mm nut on the back over a screw, I cracked it off and turned the screw and this moves the throttle arm back so
that it contacts the switch, I've fitted it now and it still won't tick over on idle. Next job I'll try and adjust the CO then I'll look at the idle air control valve even tho it does buzz with the ignition on.

Here's the switch which has made no difference.



Is there any way of testing it? Would it give a voltage out of one of the wires when pressed in?

If the switch works I'll have to some how test the idle air control valve?

Sorry guys just Desperate to get it finished before Xmas :-(