KANGAROO/CUTTING OUT PROB....NOW SORTED!!!

Hi

I have found, on my recently purchaced cabby, that the fuel vapour separator has also been bypassed in the same way.  I don't know how well it runs on the road but seems fine running at standstill.  

Is there any reason why they get bypassed? Do they need renewing regularly?  Mine is still in place, shall I just connect it up again or get a new one?

Thanks,
Jason

dubface said

Hi

I have found, on my recently purchaced cabby, that the fuel vapour separator has also been bypassed in the same way.  I don't know how well it runs on the road but seems fine running at standstill.  

Is there any reason why they get bypassed? Do they need renewing regularly?  Mine is still in place, shall I just connect it up again or get a new one?

Thanks,
Jason

When your driving it is when you know wether anything is faulty, at a standstill is pointless.
Why was it bypassed, last owner or mechanic he/she sent it to doesn't know anything about the engine and this is "an easy fix" thou a wrong decision.
If everything is done excactly to how the car and engine was designed
originally from factory you know you have it right.
The vapour separator is there for a purpose and thus is to be used, you can of course reconnect yours but it might have crud and little bits of rust fragments and causing slight blockage thus little fuel supply to carb or buy new and you know it is spot on and then if any further look at my tut's for other areas of fault and how to cure.
They do not need changing on a regular basis, should last approx 10 year
Pete :wink:

Fuel sepator cost me ?25…..new Fuel Pipe cost ?5

I changed it all in about 3 mins!! EASY!

Piece of mind that it is all new, and no CRUD in it….!!  

AAAARRGGGGHHHH!!!!

ITS BACK!!!….I can't believe it…..its started again…

Intermitently cuts out….engine won't pull car forward…..revs just cut out.

Wait 2-3 mins and it clears and drives fine!!!!!

Worked it out, it seems to happen when I take a fast sharp turn?????

ANY IDEAS……Please!!!

does it do this on a full tank of gas or only when its at qtr and below?

I haven't tried filling her up….do you think it would help?

What makes you ask the question?

OK…I think i have had a bit of a breakthrough!

After all the work i had done, the problem came back exactly as it did before….the only thing that hadn't changed…..THE FUEL!!

The car prior to me purchasing had sat under a tree for about 8 months….

I used this old fuel whilst getting her fixed (problem started)…..then I put ?10 of tesco fuel in her the other day after getting all the work done….and the problem continued….

My theory was -

Bad fuel or even water in the tank…..when the tank is low, and i turn a sharp bend go up a hill etc…..it mixes the water droplets and fuel….which when sucked into the carb cause it to judder and stall….waiting a couple of minutes means the water sinks again to the bottom of the tank…and your ok again…..(JUST A THEORY)

My second theory was just BAD FUEL

I hence drove to the ESSO station and put ?20 of V-Power Unleaded.

This is where i think i have had the breakthrough….

Original problem - Car judders and loses all power, won't pull car at all….dies when trying to make car drive forward (revs freely though)

Problem now - Car judders, but will pull through the juddering, when you give it more gas! This is something it definitely wouldn't do before….seems like the new fuel has helped its ability to fire!?!?

I plan to run this fuel down and see if the Original problem returns….which may prove my first theory….

I'm then going to drain the tank, and put all new fuel in…..hopefully cure all problems!!!!

Sorry for the long update, but as this is a problem many people have, i feel its worth sharing all my efforts and outcomes…..

If anyone agrees or disagrees with my comments…..letr me know why?

Many thanks
Darren

cornering very hard while low on fuel, ie below qtr can cause car to struggle.

try post below.
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

djheap22 said

cornering very hard while low on fuel, ie below qtr can cause car to struggle.

try post below.
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Thanks for that….perhaps i have a couple of issues then!?!?

My complete stalling has stopped (now i've added ?20 of fuel) and now i have a really bad mis-fire….especially when i give it the beans!!

Going to check my vacumm advance on the dizzy…heard that they can go and cause problems….

Also…apparantly adding 'Alcohol' or Methylated Spirits to the tank with absorb any water and burn it off…..might give this a go too!!

dont put anything in your tank. if you have enough water in your tank to be effecting your running then you need to drain the tank.

novocaine said

dont put anything in your tank. if you have enough water in your tank to be effecting your running then you need to drain the tank.

Is draining the tank a big job?

not really. just what you do with the petrol you drain thats the issue. you cant just put it down the drain and as i'm sure your aware it is rather combustable.

I just read an old post about blasting air through the fuel lines….how does this work?
I've checked my tank and it all looks clean and rust free…

My GOD!!! This problem keeps you guessing!!!?!?!

I still think its water though!

water and petrol dont mix . you can test cyphoning of a sample though the range of the fuel stored in the tank.
what makes you think you have water in your fuel?
to remove it
run the car till the tank is nearly empty. cyphon of as much as you can into petrol cans.
take the rear seat up. remove the access panel and cyphon out the remaining till the tank is drained completely or near as damn it. blow the lines back into the tank and get that out too.
now you have 5-10 litres of fuel that you cant use and get rid off.
stick fresh fuel in see what it does.

Does your problem occur when the car has warmed up or does it do it from cold.
I have been in conversation with a vw mechanic on a motorcycle forum I am a member of and he is suggesting ignition or vacuum issue. We have ruled out vacuum issue due to the sporadic nature of the fault and the fact that in my case the car idles fine and runs fine, but just cuts out suddenly. He seems pretty certain its the hall effect sensor or coil thats at fault and has come across the problem many times on similar aged vw's.

I know you have been told that these haven't got hall effect sensors but I have just managed to order one for my car (EX engine code) and will be collecting it tomorrow and hopefully have this on by the weekend.

I will let you if this cures the fault on my car.

rowdy.

who said it doesn't have hall effect sensor?
it's a late cabby so it will have a CDI which is basically a hall effect sender.
coil and CDI shouldn't cause a splutter and missfire if over heating. plugs will though.

yours cutting out is possibly the coil braking down though.

novocaine said

who said it doesn't have hall effect sensor?
it's a late cabby so it will have a CDI which is basically a hall effect sender.
coil and CDI shouldn't cause a splutter and missfire if over heating. plugs will though.

yours cutting out is possibly the coil braking down though.

shooterdee said in another thread that he was told by a mechanic that looked at his car that it did not have a hall sensor.
It does sound in his case to be more fuel related but in my case the car isn't coughing and spluttering its just cutting out. Have been told that when some of the electrical components get hot that this causes them to malfunction and when they have cooled down allow the car to be started again.
Of course this may not be shooterdees case but he has stated that he hasn't done anything with the distributor/hall sensor yet so am just letting him know if it helps in my case.

rowdy

sorry mate wasn't having a go so dont take it that way. was just wondering.

from what you have said yes yours could easily be the coil breaking down under load. they do built heat.

just dont think it applies here because of the spluttering before it dies.
i still think it maybe a blockage somewhere in the fuel system or the carb floats blocking off because of a hole.
only way to check the floats is to remove them really.

No offence taken, didn't think you were having a go.

Think your right that the petrol tank needs to be drained and easiest method as you say is to run it out of fuel. Personally I would then disconnect the fuel hose from the sender and put the end of it in a used coke (other drinks are available) bottle and then blow down it. Then jack the rear passenger side up slightly so remaining fuel is easily got at through sender unit and then soak it up with some kitchen towel and some bbq tongs.

rowdy.

Here is my distributor….very dirty…not sure if you can see if it has a hall sensor?? I plan to change HT leads, Cap and Rotor arm this weekend…

Out of interest….what should happen if i sucked on the pipe going to the diaphram on the side of the dizzy….should it create a vacuum and keep my toungue sucked to the pipe….or should i be able to suck freely….i haven;t tried yet…but i hear these can fail and affect the vacumm advance (what ever that means!!??!?)



You can see i don't have an earth cable from the Carb to the rocker cover?



I have lost the metal tube that goes from the air box arm to the rear of the engine bay



These earth points look a bit rusty to me….could this be a problem??




I have this loose wire hanging down next to the servo pipe….can't see where it attaches



Here is my fuel pump…again..don't think this has ever been touched…might be worth renewing???



This is my fuel filter….again…looks like its been there since birth!!! Its a bit brown in colour….not sure what colour it should be if it were clean….could this be starving the fuel???



I have this wire coming from the loom to the fron rear left of the engine bay, going into the back of the inlet manifold….is this right????



Sorry for the barrage of photos….but someone might be able to point out something obvious….

Vacuum pipes and fuel pipes have all been sorted including a new vapour separator….

Cheers