1.5 Carb issues :-(

jellybelly said

i have a spare vapour seporator if it any use mate

means that you can go back to standard really

Thanks Matt I think Funk has one winging its way to me :-)

The funny thing is I have no idea what it is :-D

Purely for vapour emissions, makes no difference to the engine running - just makes you a little greener !!

I love green as I'm a Hibs fan :-)

I found that Weber service kit on eBay, thanks a million :-)

http://bit.ly/OZ5g5h

I think this is correct

the vapour things just acts as a little resiviour

the fuel pump pumps into there and the carb takes what it wants and the rest returns to the tank

you always need a return esle you end up with to much pressure at the mechanical pump and lines i supose

carb engines dont work on high pressure like kjets do

i'll dig my carb book

the carb itself will be fine chris if its the right one for the car. i wouldn't get that kit and start taking it apart it's a bit of a can of worns

The carb is ok for the car as far as I've read but it is leaking IMO

There's the vapour seperator pot. Might help with your fuel lines.

That's great thanks as I've just been talking to Matt about re installing it.

I will put all the vacuum hoses in along the same way as yours and along with the separator give it go and see if it makes any difference.

No worries, hopefully it improves the running.

I will report back after next weekend on stage 1 :-)

1. usually due to fuel delivery issue, either due to blocked pipes, weak pump or faulty fuel reservoir

2. because previous owner didnt fit it without this the warm air flap wont work = carb icing. there should be a vacuum pipe from rear of carb to sensor in side of airbox, and another pipe from sensor to this nipple

3. trace the wire from the inlet manifold heater, it should go to the empty slot on the red sensor. the grey sensor is for the old 2e2 carb autochoke which is now no longer fitted

for the vacuum pipes, the little plastic inline valve and t piece go in the bin. you should have 1 pipe from the brake servo non-return valve straight to the dizzy, the other nipple is blanked off as yours is now.

then you plumb in the airbox vacuum as above

Warm air flap -

So a vaccum pipe goes from the right side nipple to the nipple on the air intake and another vacuum pipe goes from the back of the carb to the left side nipple ?

 ( I take it the back of the carb nozzle is the one that the pipe is already coming from that goes into the T piece and onto the black and white non return valve ? that has to be binned )

 The wire from the inlet manifold heater on the underside, should go to the empty slot on the red sensor and  the grey sensor is for the old 2e2 carb autochoke which is now no longer fitted, so the wire can be removed or forgotten about ? ( I am sure there is a wire on the inlet manifold heater just now ? )

What inline valve and t piece do you mean ? The black and white valve going onto the green hose I presume. So I just remove all of that and bin it, but then do I need to cap off next to the already capped off one ? Then run a pipe from the dizzy to the servo ( but what is the non return valve on the servo ? )


then you plumb in the airbox vacuum as above


Thanks a lot

sorry got mixed up with jules' pic! yeah bin this inline valve:


then the nipple it used to go on run straight to the dizzy vac unit.

for the warm air flap there should be a nipple on the back of the carb, run a pipe from here straight to the rearmost nipple on airbox, and a pipe from front nipple on airbox to the warm air feed flap unit

Sorry for being daft but I am learning  I understand the carb to airbox to warm air flap fine  Then after binning the inline valve, run a pipe from the nipple next to the blanked off nipple to the dizzy  When I bin the valve and green pipe back to the T-piece, does the other pipe from the T piece still go to the servo after removing the T piece ?

Also in the above pic, is the red wire that looks like its plugged into the inlet manifold heater, the wire that is to go into the spare red connection ?

It will also be easier when I am home looking at the engine  

basically, no valve thing, no t piece
1 vac line from brake servo to dizzy, 1 vac line from carb to airbox

yeah trace that red/white wire from inlet, thats probably the one that needs to go to empty spade. if its all connected up then id just leave it alone all should be well.

basically on mk2 gofl the red switch is for inlet, grey for carb autochoke. but it may be the other way round on a mk1 not 100%!

rubjonny said

basically, no valve thing, no t piece
1 vac line from brake servo to dizzy, 1 vac line from carb to airbox

yeah trace that red/white wire from inlet, thats probably the one that needs to go to empty spade. if its all connected up then id just leave it alone all should be well.

basically on mk2 gofl the red switch is for inlet, grey for carb autochoke. but it may be the other way round on a mk1 not 100%!

Thats great, when I am at the car it will all make sense  

I wish I was a mechanic  

yeah when its all there it'll be easy im sure

Right I can't do anything yet as waiting for hoses to arrive but

Vacuum hose from back of carb to airbox, then vacuum hose from airbox to nipple on the air intake. 😊

Vacuum hose from servo valve to dizzy 😊

Put new vapour separator on front of rocker and pipe from tank to pump, then pump to separator, then re install return fuel pipe from separator and separator to carb pipe. 😊

Lastly the red wire coming from the inlet manifold heater already goes to the grey spade and there is 1 redundant connection which I'm presuming was for the autochoke ?? So unless told otherwise I'm leaving the wires ??!

on the mk2 its the red switch that does the inlet, unfortunatly since its a dual switch i cant confirm either way for a mk1 hopefully someone else can chime in on that.

one of them cuts out at 30/40degrees, other cuts out at 55/65, so worst case it'll either cut out a bit too early or a bit too late. this assumes the thermoswitches even work! to test put a multimeter across them and they should be closed circuit cold and open circuit hot