Where to start?

Well, I know where I want to start - but not totally how!

I'm looking to start at the sills and work my way back to both rear arches, corners then rear panel. Before doing any welding I want to strip out the rear axle and fuel tank etc. However, what I'm unsure of is;

1. Where best to support the car to get axle out and then leave up in the air?
2. Once I've jacked it up, with the doors off, is the shell likely to distort when I do the sills? (Want to know the doors will fit when I put them back on! :wink: )
3. Yes, I am about to start my resto at long last!!  :cheer:

Any advice appreciated

Andy

:dance: it's about time!  :wink:

Personally I'd use a peice of wood and axle stands either under the original jacking points right near the back panel or just in front of the rear axle

are you doing inner and outer sills? mine was fine doing the outer only

no idea what you could do to prevent any possible distortion though  :dontknow:

Look forward to seeing loads of restoration progress pictures  :y:

To prevent distortion you could tack in a piece of angle iron low down in the door aperture (high enough to allow you room to work on the sill though). This should add support while working on the car.

Good Luck!

I agree with Woza, as this will keep the door opening at the correct distance. No finishing the job and finding that the door wont close.

Thanks for the tips, had thought about bracing but seemed overkill! I guess maybe it's not if I want my doors to shut!

Hairyarse said

Thanks for the tips, had thought about bracing but seemed overkill! I guess maybe it's not if I want my doors to shut!

what doors ? :dontknow:


   :wink:

Replace the sills first , repairing as you go the floors inner sills etc . Leave old doors on while doing sills as a reference and  for strength [shut them] . Then tackle the rear beam mounting points and boot floor etc . Arches etc last .

Replace the sills first

You may find the corrosion so bad when you chop these off you may want to look for a better shell ? It has happened !  :wink:

Ever the salesman Chudd! (I'll pick em up soon I promise!!)

If you have a rusty sill, how much more rust is there underneath? If I was to do it all again, I'd seriously consider one of those frame/supports which picks up at the bumper mounts and allows the car to be rotated, so you can turn it on its side and weld easier. Not just for your sanity, but welds upside down are less strong, because the molten metal can't flow properly along it.

Totally agree with you Paul. I did think about one of those 'rotisseries' (is that what they're called or is that a BBQ thing?!) but just don't have the room in my garage.

Damn shame - would be cracking to have one and I'm sure a lot easier to work on the car.

Cheers
Andy

would it not be possible to knock up some kind of frame 2 mount the car to while ur working? would be easy enough i imagine. few scaffolding poles welded together with a few cross members. mount the car and then youve also got something strong to jack the car up on too!

actually it all sounds like alot of hard work!!!   

leave yer doors on, its better for when you have tack sill in place to check its all in line, if you look on my post on here about chassis legs, i put a wooden support across the floor just in front of the fuel tank with small rubber pads where the support met the floor its ribbed so wont dent. i had my axle in place when doing the sill and jacked car up supporting on rear beam and below A panel, also a measuring tape is a godsend for sill replacement.