1ST PROJECT MK1 GTi 1.8

We'll  we finally found a mk1 that my other half liked, only prob is i'll be doing most of the hard work on it!
 It's a 1983 1.8 Gti in Mars Red (most of it!), previous owner stripped it for restoration and repairs but went to Uni and had to get rid, so in we stepped!









It was advertised as a complete car with only a bit of welding to sort to get it through MOT, however we were mislead!!  
Not only is there welding - two new panels which came with the car - which doesnt bother me but it's missing the following:

Front window wiper motor
Front wiper arms
Rear Window wiper motor
Rear Wiper Arm
Front Window Seal
Tailgate Seal
Main Headlights
Grille - busted and main headlight rings missing
Front Indicators
Tailgate Lifter
Side Skirts
Waist Line Trim Pieces
Front Seat Belts & Clips
Fuel Pump - it's possible this is caput!
Dash Dials/Surround
Dash Vent Grills
Sunvisors
Number plate light
Driver Side Wing Mirror
Suspension on rear caput

So, i've got a fair bit to source but have found a fair bit on ebay already

As soon as we got it home on sunday we went to work on putting bits back on and in so we new what was needed etc and also to get it sealed but that didnt happen since the rear window seals are missing too!
We managed to get the front doors on, rear bumper, tail lights, tailgate and dash in before we ran out of light:





Plans are, once everything has been sourced, the following:

Single headlight conversion with single Grille
Clear front indicators
Re-trim the interior
Underseal and paint every patch of rust/repair on the car
Replacing rusty old bits like bonnet/boot/door catches for new triple plated chrome peices
Full respray
Lowered on Coilovers
Weber carbs - eventually!
ATS Cups - eventually
And loads more but generally putting it back to its best, no silly modifying that i've done previously!

I've tried putting more pics on but my pc is playing up, there are loads more pics on my website www.fallenangelxsi.piczo.com
Click on the MK1 Golf Page name on the left, it will ask you for password which is "filbert" lol

A few questions for the experts out there:

*Once the rust bubbles etc have been sanded back and is showing bare metal, what do i treat it with and where can i get it?
*Whats the best filler to use on bodywork, especially on shallow areas where the previous owner has scraped rust bubbles off back to metal and primered over it leaving pot holes!
*What is a good underseal to use and where can i get it?
*On the floorpan on the inside, once it's been rubbed back, holes welded etc, what can i treat it with to protect it more?
*Is there supposed to be a metal section on the inside of the front bumper as there doesnt appear to be one on this?
*Is there a metal bar/knee bar that goes across the underside of the dash?
*Any suggestions on why there could be fuel dripping only when the car is running?

You've got your work cut out!

In answer to your questions about rust probs and metal treatment you should be able to find some good products here:

Homepage - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

Can be quite expensive but if definitely does the trick.
If you've got rust all over the body work, your fuel lines might have started to go also so check them for the petrol leak.  But if its only when the engine is running it maybe from the fuel pump.  

Have you worked out if it is leaking from the front or rear of the car?

Danny.

I prefer to use metal filler such as Metalik, better finish and not water porous like some plastic fillers. I generally stay away fom Tetra and Carplan products as I found them poor quality. Once you have rust treated the dipped areas, you can build them up with a bit of filler. Here's some old threads on rust treatment/prevention.

http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9883&highlight=rust+treating

http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6915&highlight=rust+treating

Where's the fuel leaking from, if its at the unions try new copper washers as these can get worn with age/over-tightening. You say it only leaks when running so probably is washers failing under high pressure. As the fuel injection works at high pressure everything needs well fitted to stop leaks and probably. Other than that as danny says you may have failing fuel lines/unions.

The metal knee bar is only fitted to cabs to strengthen the body due to no roof and front and rear bumpers should have metal inners.

Good luck

Bungle,

I can help you out with the following:

Front window wiper motor
Front wiper arms
Rear Window wiper motor
Rear Wiper Arm
Front Window Seal
Tailgate Seal
Main Headlights
Grille
Front Indicators
Tailgate Lifter
Waist Line Trim Pieces
Front Seat Belts & Clips
Fuel Pump
Dash Surround
Dash Vent Grills
Sunvisors
Number plate light
Driver Side Wing Mirror

And to answer your questions:

*Once the rust bubbles etc have been sanded back and is showing bare metal, what do i treat it with and where can i get it?

use a product from frost as suggested or Bilt Hamber does some good stuff.

*Whats the best filler to use on bodywork, especially on shallow areas where the previous owner has scraped rust bubbles off back to metal and primered over it leaving pot holes!

Use a two pack stopper - very fine filler

*What is a good underseal to use and where can i get it?

I'd use a two pack epoxy from the likes of rust.co.uk

*On the floorpan on the inside, once it's been rubbed back, holes welded etc, what can i treat it with to protect it more?

as bove

*Is there supposed to be a metal section on the inside of the front bumper as there doesnt appear to be one on this?

Yes

*Is there a metal bar/knee bar that goes across the underside of the dash?

No - thats only on the cabs - there are dash under trays though - i have used ones

*Any suggestions on why there could be fuel dripping only when the car is running?

You have a leaking pipe or union around the frel pump and accumulator or supply and return lines - I stock these  

Cheers

Rich

If I was in your position I'd buy an 1100 Golf C for all the bits, you'll be amazed at all the little nuts, bolts, clips, strips, widgets and bits and bobs that will be missing….

You will also be able to see where they come from and how they fit.

You should be able to pickup a mot failure for less than ?100 :dontknow: .

Was someone getting rid of 1 (of 3) on here the other day???

Also why not paint it now whilst it is striped down and windows out???

dannyboyblue said

You've got your work cut out!

In answer to your questions about rust probs and metal treatment you should be able to find some good products here:

Homepage - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

Can be quite expensive but if definitely does the trick.
If you've got rust all over the body work, your fuel lines might have started to go also so check them for the petrol leak.  But if its only when the engine is running it maybe from the fuel pump.  

Have you worked out if it is leaking from the front or rear of the car?

Danny.

Lol i'm not afraid of a bit of hard work, i like to get stuck in on a good challenge, it's refreshing when people look at this girl (me) and think "god, YOU did that?!" lol

Yep have heard of Frost, was looking through one of their catalogues the other day, got some very good n handy stuff in their

The fuel leak is definately only when the car is running and is coming from the pump area but can't be sure, there is a pic on my website, i've not had a good chance to look over it yet

crazyquiff said

Bungle,

I can help you out with the following:

" Massive List"

And to answer your questions:

*Once the rust bubbles etc have been sanded back and is showing bare metal, what do i treat it with and where can i get it?

use a product from frost as suggested or Bilt Hamber does some good stuff.

*Whats the best filler to use on bodywork, especially on shallow areas where the previous owner has scraped rust bubbles off back to metal and primered over it leaving pot holes!

Use a two pack stopper - very fine filler

*What is a good underseal to use and where can i get it?

I'd use a two pack epoxy from the likes of rust.co.uk

*On the floorpan on the inside, once it's been rubbed back, holes welded etc, what can i treat it with to protect it more?

as bove

*Is there supposed to be a metal section on the inside of the front bumper as there doesnt appear to be one on this?

Yes

*Is there a metal bar/knee bar that goes across the underside of the dash?

No - thats only on the cabs - there are dash under trays though - i have used ones

*Any suggestions on why there could be fuel dripping only when the car is running?

You have a leaking pipe or union around the frel pump and accumulator or supply and return lines - I stock these  

Cheers

Rich

That's great, can you pm me prices please with the exception of:
Rear Window wiper motor
Front Window Seal
Main Headlights
Grille
Front Indicators
Dash Surround
Driver Side Wing Mirror

Got most of those last night!

Not sure if we have the dash under trays, i'll let you know, let me know how much you want for them though

Does anyone have a picture of the metal section that should be in the front bumper please?

Early-1800 said

If I was in your position I'd buy an 1100 Golf C for all the bits, you'll be amazed at all the little nuts, bolts, clips, strips, widgets and bits and bobs that will be missing….

You will also be able to see where they come from and how they fit.

You should be able to pickup a mot failure for less than ?100 :dontknow: .

Was someone getting rid of 1 (of 3) on here the other day???

Also why not paint it now whilst it is striped down and windows out???

Yes im quite tempted to find a failure, we got told of a garage nearby that has one in, it's run by an old bloke and has been there years, not sure whta model it is though, but he would probably sell it for pennies

Well the plan is to get all the rust etc treated and get it through it's mot, it's not going to be a daily runner so it's not going to be doing many miles. Because Bungle (Simon) wants it to be done properly (thank god) we're taking our time over this and treating the car to some new bits i.e. suspension for one and possibly brake upgrade - he's only got ?1500 to do all this so the proper paint job will have to wait till next year unless i spray it for him

Hi  there,
I have seen your pictures on the trailer and I think you have a cracking find there, lucky chap.   I have a red Mk 1 GTI 'Y' reg which I plan on completely renovating at some stage.   It doesn't look as if your car has a sunroof which I think is a good thing as the roof often leaks due to the age of the vehicle.   My car has a sunroof which I plan on doing away with i.e. fitting a new roof skin.   Anyone reading this Email who has undertaken this type of job and can give me any suggestions or ideas that can help with this task , I would appreciate hearing from you.
Best of luck with your restoration project, sorry I can't help you with any parts but I will be watching your progress with interest.
Baller.

Welcome bungle! Looks like you have a good solid car to work on there. Look forward to seeing your updates :wink:

Cheers
Andy

Thanks Baller and Hairyarse!
Yes it's definately one of the most solid we've seen and it looks more work than there actually is, i'm a female and im not worried one bit on getting dirty and weilding an angle grinder lol

Simon aka Bungle, got cracking on cutting out the rotten section on the rear lower panel yesterday, only for me to take over cos he was worried lol got it sorted in no time, the rotting isn't too bad, have caught it just in time i think but there is a little more fabrication to do behind the panel.

All visable rust spots and blemishes have been sanded down, as well as a few suspect areas that we discovered had previously been filled (badly)

The scraped rear left arch has been rubbed back to bare metal and filled with metal filler and is taking back it's shape nicely thanks to moi!

The rust patch on the driver side rear arch really isn't that bad so the whole arch is not going to be replaced, just a small section cut out but not sure how far to go with it yet. The inside of the arch lip has oddly been filled completely with tons of tar, presumably to hide the rust on the inside!

We took a trip over to a guy in Wisbech on saturday to collect a new windscreen, seal and dash surround, only to come back with an extra ?80 quids worth more of parts missing like seat belts! He did us a great deal, if you see PANELDOCTOR.69 on ebay id recommend him.

Pics from saturday progress to come shortly, have left sundays major progress on the pc round Simon's mum's though so won't have them until the weekend!

 

Pics of the fuel leak & surrounding area, i have a few queries and need reassurance!

FINE UP HERE!


FUEL PUMP FINE



I THINK I FOUND THE HIGHEST POINT OF WHERE THE LEAK IS COMING FROM AND IT "APPEARS" TO BE COMING FROM THIS PIPE



BROKEN TANK STRAP AND MYSTERIOUS HANGING PIPE


Any ideas peeps? The pump looks to be fine, nothing coming from that, the tank, i think, looks fine, on the outside anyway. The filler neck and hose seems fine, just don't know the rest, i'm aware those three smaller pipes are breather hoses, if one (the large one i've pointed too) is split, would you hear a slight sucking noise when the car starts??

PROGRESS PICS:

BONNET BUBBLES RUBBED DOWN AND PRIMERED FOR PROTECTION FOR TIME BEING


SCUTTLE PANEL RUBBED DOWN FURTHER TO DISCOVER PLENTY FILLER, WAS NOT WELL DONE!


FRONT LOWER PANEL SEAM HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN FILLED WITH P38, WING IS SITTING OUTWARDS AS NOTHING HOLDING IT


A PILLAR RUBBED DOWN, SMALL HOLE IN TOP CORNER


HOCKEY STICK CAPUT BUT HAVE ANOTHER SOMEWHERE I THINK!


ENGINE BAY



INNER ARCH TARRED UP, SHOULD I REMOVE THIS??


NEW ROCKER COVER


WRONG BATTERY FITTED! MUPPETS!


OIL COOLER - IS THIS THE FILTER LEAKING??



BATTERY REMOVED


SCUTTLE PANEL DRAIN - RUST AROUND DRAIN HOLE


NO RUST IN TOP CORNERS!

Mk1Bungle said

Pics of the fuel leak & surrounding area, i have a few queries and need reassurance!

I THINK I FOUND THE HIGHEST POINT OF WHERE THE LEAK IS COMING FROM AND IT "APPEARS" TO BE COMING FROM THIS PIPE

Looks like the accumulator to supply line hose - i do new ones

BROKEN TANK STRAP AND MYSTERIOUS HANGING PIPE

I have used tank straps and the hanging pipe is a breather drain

nice progress there

 ops: I should know about the fuel system (been messing about with mine on and off for the last year).. but can't remember much of it without checking

Loose pipe pictured is just a breather pipe IIRC

looking at the engine bay pics it looks as though some welding has been done on the drivers side strut.. I'd be tempted to steam clean the tar off and see how good the repair is


Oh, and the oil cooler leaking, looks like it's going to be the gasket that needs replacing which is easy enough, worth doing the rubber seals on both the oil pipes too IMO


hope that's of some help

Cheers Rich, am i not to worry about the drain then, it should be where it is?

How much for the hose and strap?

I had thought it was the large breather hose as it comes from the same area as the three in the inner arch

Cheers Phil, i thought it would be the gasket, the hoses seemed fine, i just like to check  

:wink: always good to ask

engine should come up like brand new with a clean  8)

Yeah we're contemplating lifting it out, and recon'ing it, want it to look totally refreshed in there, have plans for some new shiny bits to go in there too  8)
Bit gutted i found out it was an 8v today instead of the 16v we thought it was!  :?