Wheel geometry. lowered golf mk1

Hi Guys,I'm in doubt how to set up my wheel geometry when i lower my golf, I believe their is a lot of different opinions on this matter, but as far as I know their should only be on "right" way to setup the wheel geometry??The car is nor super slammed, it is limited by a R32 engine, but about 40-60 mm lower than standard I think, it has the JOM adjustable coilovers all the way around. I have 16" wheels 7" wide, 205/45R16 tires and ET 42 with 5mm spacers in front, I think this gives my a scrub radius at about 0. a few questions:Toe-in/out in front ? what to do? Camber in front ? What to do ? Flip the steering Rod ends or not ? Extend the balljoint or not? Best scrub radius ?Has anyone experience with changing Caster angle, any benefits? The car is a road legal summer car, so I seek the best setup for a street car. All inputs are appreciated 

Well Camber you can adjust Caster you can't as it is a function of the lower control arm to the frame.  

To me if Caster is out, then you have a dinked lower control arm or frame damage.

Can't say much on the other things but I do know of and seen folks that have ball joint adapters, and the like because of super lowness or bagged suspension.

Me personally I take it to the alignment shop and have them set it (camber and toe that is) after I change components.

Toe needs to be at zero and the camber is recommended around the 1 degree negative.

I'm currently running 2 degrees of negative camber on the front as I needed to clear the wheel / tyre combo I had. seems fine.

You'll also need to make sure that the ride height on each side is the same. You can add rake (front to back) but each side needs to be the same. Hope yoou have somewhere flat to set it up. It's very tedious as it involves a lot of jacking up and down and half turns on the coilovers  


The ball joint extenders etc are all sold 'for off road use only' whether you choose to run them is up to you of course. I haven't so I can't comment on that

Ian

Thank you guys..

Borednow - regarding hide of the car that i little tricky i guess…

If I just set the screws on the coildovers in same position left/right the car maybe not be perfectly straight left/right.

Would you adjust the coilovers seperatly? and where would you meausure if the car is straight?

Thanks

Have a look at Mk1 daz build thread as he's fitted alsorts of stuff to the suspension.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fthe-money-pit-mk1&start=340

I think page 20ish has his setting for suspension.

I did the same. I set the coilovers to the same points on the threads and them fitted them hoping they would be somewhere near.

I then had the car on a level garage floor and measured from the floor, over the centre of the wheel and up the bottom of the arch.

I had about 5mm difference between drivers and passnger side, plus it looked a little different. I then lifted one side 2mm and dropped one side 2mm

Then I had to let it settle and drive it around a bit and then tried again.

There was still a measurable difference so rinse and repeat.

Took about 4 tries before getting it somewhere similar.

Like I say, tedious!

Ian

Borednow, maybe the archs is a bit off ass well ? I would not see the measurement at that point as valid for wheel geometry. If you have i perfectly straight floor, maybe a measurement to the front bolt for the wishbone, that would tell is the body is straight…


I'm tried to ask on 'the money pit' but i get no reply.

I'm still confused on what to set tracking to ? Toe-in or toe-out? I have around 0,5-1 negative camber.

I reckon for a road going mk1 a bit of toe out is correct,  track use may be different.

I was always told that if your bearings are good then a negative toe-in is what you want, as the car when moving will allow the tires to toe-out and wear evenly across the tread, the Bentley shows a -10'

Thats rear wheel drive i believe.  front wheel drive the wheels are pulling forward and toe out means they are parallel when driving. on rear wheel drive the front wheels are being dragged back so start with toe in.

I'm not always online hence the delay in posting.

I have replied on my thread but looked through all my info and i started at 0 toe front and rear with -1.5 camber on the front.

I have bc racing adjustable camber plates but they were set in the middle so it can be changed easy after.

I've fitted extended ball joints and flipped the rod ends with longer arms.

Personally I'd ditch the jom's for some bc as they have loads more adjustment for setting up.

Preload can be set to your engine weight then when you change the ride height it doesn't change the preload as it's a different platform, adjustable damping all round, camber adjustable plates.

I'd love a ride in the r32 once your done though lol

mk1 daz:

Thanks for reply,. I had a look at the BC suspension and at this point I rather throw money after a good LSD and leave the JOM on..

Do you know what the axle weight the bc can be adjusted for. I have 600 kg on front and 320 kg on rear.

Hummel said

mk1 daz:

Thanks for reply,. I had a look at the BC suspension and at this point I rather throw money after a good LSD and leave the JOM on..

Do you know what the axle weight the bc can be adjusted for. I have 600 kg on front and 320 kg on rear.

The spring ratings and preload are build to which engine you have in the car. Just tell them the car and engine then they will build them.