Help! Problems after suspension renewal!

Hi guys, I have recently changed my suspension from cheap eBay coilovers to a more suitable set up of bilstein b4 shocks, with eibach springs. A much better set up!! Comfortable, but firm.

Anyway, a few problems have arisen since I changed the shocks.

The front shocks now squeak and creak very loud! Could this be the new febi bump stops? I cant think what else it could be, there is no knocking or anything just alot of squeaking and creaking! Its on both sides, but worse on the O/S. I have noticed that in the exploded diagram on etka, (shown below) I appear to be missing pieces 1A and 1B. Will this make a difference?



The second problem is more of a head scratcher, well for me anyway. Since changing the shocks, I now only have 1 and 3/4 turns to lock when turning to the right, and 2 and 3/4 turns to lock when turning to the left, and now, as a result of the extra turns of lock to the left the O/S front wheel rubs the inner arch tub  I know for a fact that I measured and set up the steering rack properly when I rebuilt the whole car, I think I checked it about 10 times!! When I was running the eBay coilovers, with 15" bbs RM's it was fine. Now ive changed to shocks/springs with the 14" p-slots its all gone out!
Any ideas why or what is causing this?! I havent had the car tracked yet, or the camber set up properly. But the difference in lock to lock is a little extreme?! The car also drives straight, no pulling to the left or right.  


Third problem, the brake pedal now has loads of travel in it, when I first took the car out after changing the shocks, the pedal went nearly to the floor, then it came back to life, but not as good as it was before.
At first I assumed it was the brake pressure regulator, so I adjusted this, but the brakes are still significantly worse and the pedal still long.

Sorry for the essay, but Im a little confused by all this! Hope some of you can help!

Thanks

I've never had 1a and 1b either, the creaking could be the spring rubbing on the cup on the strut which holds the spring, did you make sure the end of the spring was in the dent/bent bit of the strut and the same on the top of the spring?

Does seem strange the steering rack going that far out have you checking the mounts are OK and the steering rack held tight? When changing the shocks and camber it might make some difference but should not be that much, If you are going to get the tracking/camber done it might be worth to re set the steering rack so you have the same amount of turns lock to lock as it will stop you wheels rubbing.

Brake pedal, have you got a fluid leak? the rear cyinders are most likley to leak or an air leak?

Thanks for the reply mk1gls, 

The spring was defo in the groove/dent bit. The only think I can think is that the bump stops are rubbing or, perhaps the shock inserts are not tight in the shock strut housing, but I'm sure this would cause more of a knocking noise? And I'm made sure the caps that screw the inserts down were on f'in tight!! 

The steering rack is the most bewildering one. There is defo not play in the rack mounts. Like you said, I would see some difference, but the difference I've got now to before is baffling! I suppose I will just have to remove the rack again and re-set it? 

Checked for fluid leaks, no leaks. Could air of got in the system somehow? Or, could I have damaged the compensator when changing shocks? The rear beam was hanging down a little more than it would in road conditions when I removed the rear shocks. Nothing extreme though, I supported the rear beam with two trolley jacks. Perhaps a quick bleed
Of the brakes is needed? Is there any way to test the compensator? 

brake compensator may have air in
you need to cable tie it open and bleed brakes