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poor performance, a possible vaccuum leak? '88 1.8l K-jet

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Motor issue, 1988 1.8l cabby

Hi all,

so recently i've been doing stuff here and there with my cabby. A few months back i noticed, that when i open the oil filler cap, or pull out the dipstick, the engine starts running more roughly. This led me to a new set of valve stem seals, which I replaced. The old ones were rock-hard!
I thought i had the problem fixed, but now, when the dipstick is pulled out, the engine starts running so rough that it stops. Vaccuum leak I suspect?

Also, the mixture seems to be too rich as there is some black smoke coming out. I also replaced spark plugs, because the old ones were worn out. It runs more evenly, but still with black smoke and stall when oil filler cap is opened or the dipstick is pulled out.

The performance is extremely (!!!) poor. In second gear it seems that i almost have to go "pedal to the metal" to get it lively. I also had LPG installed  (last month)(AND I KNOW THAT ITS MAJOR DECREASE IN STREET CRED, but i want to use it as a daily car… the gas is so expensive, so i had no choice..) before all of the performance stalls, but it performs equally with LPG or petrol. Those guys who installed it were complete a**holes, because not long ago I discovered, that when they put in their LPG components, they didn't connect the cold mixture enrichment tube that goes into the throttle body…. I lengthened the tube and re-connected it, now the rpm's don't bounce around, but the crappy performance issue persists. Knowing that they left that disconnected, maybe there's more places where a vaccuum leak could be?

Also, the rpms are ok when the engine is cold, but when it warms up the engine stalls. I adjusted the screw in the back of the throttle body, but i don't know how the cold engine rpm's will respond to that change tomorrow.

Can a vaccuum leak play a big part in performance loss? I mean it doesn't go at all…. My grannys 1.4l fiesta hauls a** in comparison.

Any help would be appreciated!

I will upload a video of the engine running as well as some pictures, if needed.

Also heres a short video just t for the heck of it! Me messing around in the garage! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrgA0pydo2Yheers!:lol:

Last edit: by matukash

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Here's a video from today's run. This may help you to help me out.

video: Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life

I think i saw something in hayes manual that the mixture flap shouldn't be completely horizontal. I think it needs to sit at an angle, correct?

SHOULD IT BE LIKE THIS?


OR LIKE THIS?


Thank you in advance!

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yeah when you pull the dipstick or oil filler cap you have just introduced an air leak via the oil breather system, so yeah, it'll run bad ;)

the metering head flap looks fine as is, it should be flush with the narrowest point of the air cone nearest the fuel metering head.

have a read of this thread, ignore the 16v specific parts:
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972

and for ignition timing this is set at idle with dizzy vac lines disconnected and plugged, idle and co just set at idle no special procedures. for cam timing use the punch mark on inside of cam sprocket lined up to head:

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Also, I don't think i hear my idle switch "Click". Is the idle switch the same as WOT switch, but just under the throttle body?

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there is only 1 switch on the later kjet cars, its not a WOT switch but more of an 'off idle' switch. it feeds the cold throttle enrichment system which sprays a jet of fuel in when cold if you boot it

unless the WOT switch you mention its an extra switch added by the lpg system? if so leave that well alone :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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