Dash not working, Only clock and speedo function

hello i have a clipper mk1 89 model.

recently got my car as a project.

the issue i am trying to fix is my dash has stopped working - the MPH and clock work fine but the Rev counter, temp, fuel gauge do not work. The LEDs also do not work.

It did once work a about a week ago, after jump started the car it stopped working, i then replaced the battery and it all started working as normal again but as i was driving the dash stopped working again.

I need my dash to work as i am about to book in for MOT any ideas on what to check? my fused seem to all be okay.

i took the dash off and removed the instrument cluster to have a look the connector was perhaps lose? but all seems ok.  i have pics of thew cluster if anyone wants to have a look.

Oh i forgot to add that my indicators also not working, which relay do i check?

 

hi,

ok couple of things,
poor connection on the connector a common problem.
Remove plug and the shroud over the connector ribbon, clean copper contacts, then put a couple of turns of electrical tape over the nub to pack it out. That way once it's all plugged back in the connector is a snugger fit and a better contact.

there is also a brown/white wire that goes to the corner stud on the rocker cover, in turn a earthing strap that goes to the coil mounting bracket bracket bolt, that's the earth for the clocks.

First, remove all the nuts to the gauges, and clean them shiney.  The Color of your nuts says that some corrosion has started….

Second replace the bulbs, they go bad, unless you have metered them and have 0 ohms, just replace them, there are only 3.

Pin 1 the gray/blue wire is the power in to the Lights.  With the Dash re-connected, that wire should have 12.5-13.5 (battery voltage) that will go up or down as you adjust the brightness of the switch.  You didn't mention if the other lamps as in the heater controls or lower console are working?  If they are then the Bulbs are bad if they aren't then check your fuses, and or replace the headlight switch.  

Pin 14 (black) is the battery in for the cluster it should be at battery voltage compared to pin 2 or frame ground.

Third.  Find pin 2 (ground a brown wire) 6 inches back on the wire side of the connector you will splice a 10 inch pigtail to it (solder and heatshrink or a Scotch-loc wire splicer works.  The Drill a small pilot hole in between the (X) brace, scrub it to bare metal and using a short sheet metal screw screw the ground pigtail to there.

As Chortle suggested remove the shroud off the connector, remove the mylar be VERY Gentle.  Apply one strip of electrical tape to the pin side of the plastic tongue.  This will plump out your connectors and the connector will be tighter when you re-connect it.

The turns/hazards have 2 fuses, one at f2 or f4, and one at f19.  On your hazard switch there are 2 bare wires with unshielded connections use Heat shrink to insulate them, then replace the fuses.. If it still doesn't work then usually it is your 4-way hazard switch that is defective.

Briano1234 said

First, remove all the nuts to the gauges, and clean them shiney.  The Color of your nuts says that some corrosion has started….

Second replace the bulbs, they go bad, unless you have metered them and have 0 ohms, just replace them, there are only 3.

Pin 1 the gray/blue wire is the power in to the Lights.  With the Dash re-connected, that wire should have 12.5-13.5 (battery voltage) that will go up or down as you adjust the brightness of the switch.  You didn't mention if the other lamps as in the heater controls or lower console are working?  If they are then the Bulbs are bad if they aren't then check your fuses, and or replace the headlight switch.  

Pin 14 (black) is the battery in for the cluster it should be at battery voltage compared to pin 2 or frame ground.

Third.  Find pin 2 (ground a brown wire) 6 inches back on the wire side of the connector you will splice a 10 inch pigtail to it (solder and heatshrink or a Scotch-loc wire splicer works.  The Drill a small pilot hole in between the (X) brace, scrub it to bare metal and using a short sheet metal screw screw the ground pigtail to there.

As Chortle suggested remove the shroud off the connector, remove the mylar be VERY Gentle.  Apply one strip of electrical tape to the pin side of the plastic tongue.  This will plump out your connectors and the connector will be tighter when you re-connect it.

The turns/hazards have 2 fuses, one at f2 or f4, and one at f19.  On your hazard switch there are 2 bare wires with unshielded connections use Heat shrink to insulate them, then replace the fuses.. If it still doesn't work then usually it is your 4-way hazard switch that is defective.

Thanks you very much both of you guys for taking time to reply.

U will get to work now then and see you if all the above help

I will keep you posted thank you 

Oh and my heaters do work fine.