K-Jet fuel pump wiring...Calling Rubjonny!

Good evening folks,

I'm after some advice regarding wiring up the fuel pump on my 1.8 8v K jet converted Mk1 Caddy (EV engine code).  It was originally a 1.6 petrol.  I have a CE1 fusebox…From what i have researched, Rubjonny is the man i need to speak to.

The caddy has been running well for years, however my friend wired it up, including the fuel pump, and it has always constantly run when the ignition is on.  It appears that the wiring for the fuel pump bypasses the fusebox, using a random relay.  I have finally got round to trying to sort this so that it primes on ignition, and pumps when cranking/engine is running.  I have been using this link for reference:

Central Electric 1

The fuse box had what i believe is the original relay in slot 2, and from what i have read this is for the inlet manifold carb pre heat. (relay is a Kracker 24.1400.20).

From my research, in theory i should be able to put the pump live wire (orange/red) into multiplug pin E14 (which i have done with the correct pin) earth the other wire, replace the relay with a k jet one (i have used a new Topran, part number 103 420 755/321 906 059F) and once connected to the pump it should work…..However, this is not the case.

With the above set up, i can feel the new relay 'click' when i switch the ignition on, but with a voltmeter on the end of the E14 orange/red wire, and the brown wire earthed to the earth tree on the fuse box,  i get no power to the wires. My rev counter is working, which means that the coil feed (red/black wire) is working as it should, i guess?

If i replace the new relay with the one that was in it, and turn on the ignition, i get constant power to the orange/red wire or when connected to the pump, it runs continuously like it has always done. So, as you can imagine, this is confusing me a bit.  I'm a novice when it comes to car electrics, but have done a fair bit of reading in preparation, and would appreciate some help.  Pics speak a thousand words, so here is what i have at present.  I have labelled each wire, so you know where they are going.  I'm sure that a few wires have been connected incorrectly (WUR wires (red or pink/white) and the blue alternator wire), and the bypassed relay is drawing its power from a spare slot on the back of the fuse box (terminal N or P).  Also spliced into 'N' is the blue Alternator wire. The WUR wires- one runs to the relay, the other to the pump. From what i gather this should be spliced into E14? It's a bit of a mess!




Relay that seems to work/get power to new wires:



Kracker relay on the left, and K jet relay on the right.  (are they the same?!):



Thanks for taking the time to read, hopefully you'll be able to help me unbodge it!

Cheers, Paul.



 

FYI
rubjonny

if the alternator is to the N spade this bypasses the battery warning light system which is not ideal. look for the alternator blue wire near the battery live terminal and hook it back up how it should be.

Looks liek your mate put the power output from the external relay to the N spade to power up the fuel relay rail, fine except the pump wont cut out in a crash. Pull the wires out of N, and put the WUR power feed to E/14 as well. factory E/14 has 2 wires from it, once straight to fuel pump and other has a male spade on the end for the WUR power to plug into.

looking at your relays both appear to be correct for kjet so use the one that works. kracker 24.1400.20 is equivalent to relay #2, 321906059F. some other part numbers (relay #, vw part number, kracker number, GSF number):
2 = 321906059D/E / 3.300.210 / 935VG0090 = no limiter (superceeded by 321906059E-F)
62 = 443907385B/321906059G / 3.300.220 / ? = 6.5k limiter?
63 = 321906059F / 24.1400.20 / 935VG0090 = no limiter
65 = 321906059H / 3.300.230 / 935VG0080? = 6.5k limiter

Thanks for the advice, Sorry for the delay in updating! All sorted now.

The blue wire to N was actually coming from the coil, and was added in.  All this none standard wiring was removed. Fuel pump wired into E14, K jet Topran Relay fitted, and i found the 2nd black coil wire (for rev counter signal) loose in the bay.  This was plugged in and hey presto the fuel pump now primes initially and then runs on cranking.

I didnt splice the WUR into E14, i ran it from N with an inline fuse. It behaves in exactly the same way as E14, so is all working fine.  Nice to have it all back to standard.

I even wired in my Audi VDO's from a spare spade on the back of the fusebox using RubJonnys guide. Very useful.

I now have a much better understanding of Mk1 wiring and fuseboxes!

Thanks for the help, and for the good info on this site.

Cheers, Paul.

yep inline fuse off N is all good

Thanks for confirming that. Couple more quick questions:

The inline fuse is currently a 15a ceramic as it's all I had. The fuel pump from e14 runs a 10a in slot 5..shall I change the WUR to a 10a too?

I've wired my vdo gauges from G3-fused in slot 12 which is a 15 a..is this ok for the gauges or shall I change to a 10a?

I also seem to have sticky indicators..thought it was the relay so I swapped that, but the seem to stick 'on' and not flash sometimes. Flicking the Hazard switch and that works fine. When the indicators stick the green dash light stays dimly lit..thoughts?

Oh, and any idea what this spare plug is?
Comes from the same branch as the coil wires etc on the engine loom..everything that can be plugged in is plugged in..just wondering what it was for! I've got an EV lump so assume the loom is from the same car.




Cheers..getting there slowly!

yeah 15a is a little high for the wur on its own, but it wont be a problem as the fuel pump and wur together should be on a 15a fuse in slot 5 anyway. So we know that VW is happy with a 15a fuse to blow if the WUR wiring shorts out, but if you get hold of a lower amp fuse in future swap it for sure.

likewise fuse 12 should be 15a standard so VW are happy with anything on that circuit shorting out with a 15a, plus it also does the rear wiper so anything less may not be man enough to run that plus additional circuits.

with the indicators look at your ignition live black/blue wire to the back of the hazard switch, make sure its clean and tight. this one is fed from fuse 19 so check that is secure in its socket and in good nick while you're there.  It does sound like the hazard switch itself may be failing though if wiggling it helps, you can split them to clean the contacts inside but beware everything is spring loaded so take care lol

that plug is for the cold throttle enrichment valve, its a metal valve on the back of the airbox. Its wired to the idle switch and a black wire to the starter motor, you could strip it all out if you wanted its only fitted on later kjet cars.